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Post by myles on May 10, 2006 21:29:51 GMT -7
Myles I just read here on the forum that the Rx ES is out of phase with other amps. Is this true? I would think the speakers would be wired out of phase, not the amp. Just curious because I'm thinking of buying one and plan to use it with my 38 SR and Z-28. As always thanks for your time. Jason This is true of many amps. A Fender has two gain stages in a manner of speaking .... the input hits one of the triodes in V1, then it goes through the tone stack, then hits the other side of V1. Each stage flips the signal 180 degrees. On a Marshall, one side of v1 is for the bright inputs and other side is for the normal inputs (on a plexi). So that is "one" stage. Then the signal hits V2A and then V2B, so there are two more flips. Sort of Fender = even and Marshall = odd. This is why Fender and Marshall amps are not in phase with each other. This is no biggie though ... if you have more than one amp that you are always going to use just rewire the speaker plug that hits the speaker jack of the amp. They also sell devices that will do this for you. |
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Post by jwr on May 10, 2006 21:36:15 GMT -7
Thanks Myles, I appreciate the quick response.
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Post by JASON (aka jgleaton) on May 10, 2006 21:50:19 GMT -7
Myles, I played around with all my Z's together in different combinations and they all seemed to be "in phase" with each other (the Maz SR, Stingray and Ghia seemed to be in phase), except for the Original Prescription and the RX ES... they BOTH seem to be out of phase with the rest ??... does this sound about right/ make sense to you... seems that both of the RX designs/ number of stages is a little different than the rest of them?? just curious...  Jason |
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Post by prowler on May 11, 2006 5:51:37 GMT -7
V1 and V2 is all you have to change if you have a good matched long plate phase inverter in V3. And .... V1 is most of this. Myles, I put an RFT in V1 of my SRZ & it's exactly what I wanted. V2 & V3 has Z's Svetlanas in them. What do you recommend for V3 or is the Svet that Z supplied good enough? |
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Post by myles on May 11, 2006 10:44:33 GMT -7
Myles, I played around with all my Z's together in different combinations and they all seemed to be "in phase" with each other (the Maz SR, Stingray and Ghia seemed to be in phase), except for the Original Prescription and the RX ES... they BOTH seem to be out of phase with the rest ??... does this sound about right/ make sense to you... seems that both of the RX designs/ number of stages is a little different than the rest of them?? just curious... Jason This sounds right without me thinking about it too deeply at the moment ... busy getting ready for the amp show. The RxES as three gain stages as a plexi Marshall ... remember, on these amps V1 is used half by one channel and half by the other and V2 is used by both channels. So .... three phase flips .... and in the RxES you have two stages in V1 (12AX7) and then one more stage in the EF86 pentode ... again, three flips. There are other factors ... it is not always that simple though. |
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Post by prowler on May 11, 2006 15:33:03 GMT -7
Myles or Chad,
I find that most overdrive pedals don't sound good with my Mini when the volume knob is around 9 O'clock. The amp sounds overly compressed and lifeless. I've been trying & trying to find a pedal that will give me a nice open uncompressed tone when used with my Mini at low volume settings. I tried an OCD, a Fulldrive & a COT none of which did much for me. The only way I have been able to get pedals to sound good with my Mini is to run the Minis volume at noon or higher. Anything less & it doesn't sound very good to my ears. The Mini on it's own sounds great but I'm trying to get higher gain tones out of it without having to turn up the volume to a level that my family just wont accept in the home.
Would a different preamp tube reduce the compressed tone I'm hearing? I've tried some rather good sounding pedals but when they are run into the Mini with the volume at 9 O'clock they just compress and sound lifeless. I'm beginning to think it has something to do with the Mini only having one preamp tube. Thats the only explanation I can come up with since every other amp that I have tried the above listed pedals on sounds great & those amps have all had more than one preamp tube.
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Post by abradpaisleyfan on May 11, 2006 15:50:50 GMT -7
No to steer away GT business but from my point of view I like to recommend what from my point of view is the "right tool for the job". In the case of the AC30CC ..... the first tube in these amps is not worked very hard (which has nothing to do with great tone but the V1 in this amp will last for decades). I have played with a lot of these amps at this point and there are a few I have found to be pretty spectacular, articulate and not too bright in an amp that can be a bright amp. One is this: kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=14............. The other is this one: kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=31.................... These are both from Mike at www.kcanostubes.comThe Brimar may be more pricy but it is also probably the last V1 tube you will ever need in the AC30CC. The GT ECC83S is in the same ballpark in some ways but has more of a midrange bump that is not in the other two tubes. The other two are s m o o o o o o o t h The AC30CC had very nice EQ that really loves the RFT and Brimar. Guess I missed a sale Hey Myles, thanks for the reply will look into those valves. Hey another question for you what do you reccomend for power tubes for that vox ac30cc |
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Post by guitarman1 on May 12, 2006 6:40:13 GMT -7
Hello Myles and Chad. I just bought a RX ES and was wondering about EF86 recommendations. It currently has a Dario. How would you compare the NOS GEC & Mullard at KCA to the Dario please? Thanks, Steve Steve, I will hope Chad pipes in here but I find the Mullard and GEC to be a bit smoother. Better? Not yes or no here but different. But Chad listens to a bank of EF86 amps many nights a week and can tell you what he thinks, what Brad Paisley thinks, and what Gary Hooker think. I'd get his take on it. Chad, please chime in hear. I'd love to hear your opinon. |
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Post by John on May 12, 2006 6:53:11 GMT -7
Myles,
Have you bench tested the output of the Route 66? I'm looking to purchase a Weber attenuator, and they come in 50 & 100 watt models. I'm hoping the 50 watt model will be enough, but they warn on the Weber website that an amp can put out (peak?) more than it's rating. (no kidding) And since the 66 is so percusive, I'm worried about frying a 50 watt attenuator.
Any comments?
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Post by myles on May 14, 2006 15:57:40 GMT -7
Myles, Have you bench tested the output of the Route 66? I'm looking to purchase a Weber attenuator, and they come in 50 & 100 watt models. I'm hoping the 50 watt model will be enough, but they warn on the Weber website that an amp can put out (peak?) more than it's rating. (no kidding) And since the 66 is so percusive, I'm worried about frying a 50 watt attenuator. Any comments? Use the 100 watter. |
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Post by myles on May 14, 2006 15:58:32 GMT -7
No to steer away GT business but from my point of view I like to recommend what from my point of view is the "right tool for the job". In the case of the AC30CC ..... the first tube in these amps is not worked very hard (which has nothing to do with great tone but the V1 in this amp will last for decades). I have played with a lot of these amps at this point and there are a few I have found to be pretty spectacular, articulate and not too bright in an amp that can be a bright amp. One is this: kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=14............. The other is this one: kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=31.................... These are both from Mike at www.kcanostubes.comThe Brimar may be more pricy but it is also probably the last V1 tube you will ever need in the AC30CC. The GT ECC83S is in the same ballpark in some ways but has more of a midrange bump that is not in the other two tubes. The other two are s m o o o o o o o t h The AC30CC had very nice EQ that really loves the RFT and Brimar. Guess I missed a sale Hey Myles, thanks for the reply will look into those valves. Hey another question for you what do you reccomend for power tubes for that vox ac30cc I use the EL84S in a 5-6 rating. |
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Post by anacephalic on May 16, 2006 12:07:39 GMT -7
Myles, from reading tube info on your site i get that a 12AX7 has approx 100 for gain vrs 60-70 for an AT7, the transcunductance is 1600 and 5000 respectively and the current is 1.2 ma and 10.0 ma respectively. Clear as a Z there. Then the PI discussion relates the changes in distortion, touch and output dynamics partially to the gain but more so to the available current and transconductance value.
So the question i have is if an AT7 in the PI position would actually give more touch and dynamic control than the ax7. That is what i get from the summary but i can't say i'm real sure about it because if the apparent advantage of using an AT7 is real why are there Ax7s in that slot in the Zs and why are they the tube being most advocated for that slot on your blueprint site?
I also need a position/use clarification for an original RX. ax7 closest to the input would be V-1, closest to the output tubes would be PI, correct? What is the middle slot, a second gain stage? Is the middle slot all that picky about the tubes put in it beyond general compatibility?
thanks Myles
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Post by sae2111 on May 16, 2006 22:55:18 GMT -7
Hello All,
I recently found a twin reverb that was too cheap to pass up. It did have a few issues, so I took it to a local shop and had it retubed and cleaned up. As far as funtionality goes, everything is great. I'm not sure how I feel about the tonal results though. The tech used Svetlana 6L6GC - Sovetek 12AX7WA - and Electro Harmonix 12A7T. That's what the boxes with my old tubes in them say anway. I want to start playing around with different tubes, but don't know where to start, or how much room I have to expeirment. I am in no position to bias the amp myself. (At the moment I'm trying to keep the day job, keep the band in good working order and record an album. As much as I would like to devote my time to really learning the in's and out's of amps, it just isn't in the cards at the moment). Can I swap out any 6L6 for any other 6L6, for instance, or do I need to follow more specific guidelines? How much can I get away with and not ruin my amp? Thanks.
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Post by myles on May 17, 2006 9:17:34 GMT -7
Myles, from reading tube info on your site i get that a 12AX7 has approx 100 for gain vrs 60-70 for an AT7, the transcunductance is 1600 and 5000 respectively and the current is 1.2 ma and 10.0 ma respectively. Clear as a Z there. Then the PI discussion relates the changes in distortion, touch and output dynamics partially to the gain but more so to the available current and transconductance value. So the question i have is if an AT7 in the PI position would actually give more touch and dynamic control than the ax7. That is what i get from the summary but i can't say i'm real sure about it because if the apparent advantage of using an AT7 is real why are there Ax7s in that slot in the Zs and why are they the tube being most advocated for that slot on your blueprint site? I also need a position/use clarification for an original RX. ax7 closest to the input would be V-1, closest to the output tubes would be PI, correct? What is the middle slot, a second gain stage? Is the middle slot all that picky about the tubes put in it beyond general compatibility? thanks Myles The 12AT7 has a higher transconductance and higher standing current. It is a "tight" tube and that is why they are really not all that advisable in V1. In the phase inverter position though, they will give more clean headroom. Many times I prefer a 5751 in place of a 12AT7. They have the same gain for the most part but they are much smoother and are great in V1 or as the phase inverter in amps that use a 12AX7 PI where you want a bit more clean headroom. In the original Rx ... V1 is most close to the input jack and V3 is indeed the phase inverter. |
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Post by myles on May 17, 2006 9:26:40 GMT -7
Hello All, I recently found a twin reverb that was too cheap to pass up. It did have a few issues, so I took it to a local shop and had it retubed and cleaned up. As far as funtionality goes, everything is great. I'm not sure how I feel about the tonal results though. The tech used Svetlana 6L6GC - Sovetek 12AX7WA - and Electro Harmonix 12A7T. That's what the boxes with my old tubes in them say anway. I want to start playing around with different tubes, but don't know where to start, or how much room I have to expeirment. I am in no position to bias the amp myself. (At the moment I'm trying to keep the day job, keep the band in good working order and record an album. As much as I would like to devote my time to really learning the in's and out's of amps, it just isn't in the cards at the moment). Can I swap out any 6L6 for any other 6L6, for instance, or do I need to follow more specific guidelines? How much can I get away with and not ruin my amp? Thanks. The Twin reverb is a killer amp ... a standard ... an icon. You can use any 6L6, 5881, or KT-66 in the amp. You really do need to take the amp to a tech and have the bias set to 30mA. This is the magic number in this amp regardless of 6L6 type or rating. You can buy a simple bias tool and do this yourself. It is not hard at all and takes about three minutes. In the TR you need not even pull the chassis. If you get a bias tool I will be happy to step you through this over the phone. The bias tool I use is a GT device. I prefer it as it does not have an integral meter, is smaller, cheaper, and there is no meter to fail. It fits easier in my tool box and I used them for years before I came to GT. The one I use is at: www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1191There is another one that comes with a separate meter and the one at the link above has no meter. I think any tool box should have a meter and any $9.95 "Radio Shack" meter works great and is less pricy than the tool and the meter combination. Get that 12AX7WA out of there .... in V1 and V2 use virtually ANYTHING else. In my own Twin Reverb and Deluxe Reverbs I use the 12AX7M in V1, V2, V4, V5. Four output tubes I use the GT-6L6GE in a 5-7 rating biased at 30mA or the GT-6L6R2 (Svetlana ... real winged C Svets) in the same rating at the same bias. |
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Post by abradpaisleyfan on May 21, 2006 16:24:22 GMT -7
Hey Myles, got some questions. I have a vox ac30cc and I plan on useing the groove tubes in it. I am going to put the el84-s in it and the 12ax7m . I was wondering what rating system you would recommend on the el84-s to get a good Brad Paisley sound. 1-3, 4-7, 8-10,
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Post by myles on May 22, 2006 8:25:10 GMT -7
Hey Myles, got some questions. I have a vox ac30cc and I plan on useing the groove tubes in it. I am going to put the el84-s in it and the 12ax7m . I was wondering what rating system you would recommend on the el84-s to get a good Brad Paisley sound. 1-3, 4-7, 8-10, The AC30CC is a killer amp. On the output tubes .... EL84S in a #5 or #6 rating only. Outside of this range the lower ranges are grainy and the higher are harsh. I wish I could describe this better than the use of two words that are so wide in scope. I would NOT use an M in v1. I personally prefer a short plate tube for the British type of response. I use an ECC83S in V1 of these amps. But ... that is my personal taste. There is no right and wrong and a lot of folks love the M's and in the original Vox amps the Mullards were used extensively. If you can borrow one of each and hear the difference for yourself that would be the best way to go. If you are anywhere around me (I did not look at your location prior to typing), I would be happy to let you try a half a dozen tubes in V1 at my place. |
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Post by abradpaisleyfan on May 22, 2006 13:26:57 GMT -7
Hey myles thanks for the info on the vox ac30cc. you are very helpful.
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Post by myles on May 23, 2006 9:15:07 GMT -7
Hey myles thanks for the info on the vox ac30cc. you are very helpful. You are more than welcome |
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Post by propellr on May 23, 2006 10:42:17 GMT -7
Myles,
I bit the hook clean off when I saw a Phil Jones Bass Six-Pack up for sale on ebay the other night. You have lauded PJB and I wanted to see for myself. If PJB gets the job done, you have my thanks. If this isn't the sound for me, you still have my thanks.
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Post by Hohn on May 23, 2006 10:44:13 GMT -7
I have a Peavey Classic 100 head. I bought it used about 7-8yrs ago off Ebay, and it's had a somewhat tough life since then.
It once did a Peter Pan off a rack case. Sounded fine, until it started smoking badly in the middle of church. Cooling fan was a victim of the fall. But I found out it worked if I put the amp on it's side. So I have used it since.
Lately, I've been using it as a power amp only-- I run my Mesa Preamp's outs right into the effects return. Sounded MUCH better when bypassing the front end of the Peavey. The tone stack just sucked the tone right out.
Then I went to go trade it in, and the store found that the dirty channel was kaput. Never occurred to me, because I hadn't been using the front side of the amp. The clean channel works perfectly, but the dirty size just makes a static-like buzz that sounds like something is blown.
Could it be just something as simple as a bad preamp tube? I'm assuming that the dirty channel circuit uses a gain stage in the preamp that the clean channel doesn't. Hence, a bad tube would explain it.
Also, I want to fix the cooling fan. Previous experience tells me NOT to take it to an "authorized Peavey repair center" (long story with a Classic 30-- ended up paying $168 for an $8 diode). I've seen "muffin fans" for sale that might be appropriate. Where can I get a fan for this thing? "Do you know the muffin fan? The muffin fan? Yes, the muffin fan! Who lives on drury lane?" Anyway, I digress.
Finally, I need to retube this joker anyway. It takes EIGHT EL84s. I had good luck with the JJs in a Classic 30, but I'm open to suggestions for alternatives.
Also, what about alternative preamp tubes? I dont remember if it takes 3 or 4 (3 seems to be in my memory). Tonally, I'd like something more akin to a 100W classic 30. That 30 sounded so much better than this 100 does.
I know it's almost sacrilege to talk about a Peavey Classic on a forum like this, but I'd like to have the option of this amp as a backup, or for a louder capability.
Muchas Gracias in advance...
Justin
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Post by dcarambula on May 23, 2006 10:53:18 GMT -7
Hello Myles, I'm new to Z amps, have a Maz jr. reverb. need to know recommended tubes for V1 on through ouputs, also, which is the reverb tube, and is the reverb function split between two triodes. I will try to get a bilaterally matched phase inverter tube as you recommend in other parts of the site. What is your thinking on 70's Matsushita OEM preamp triodes? My general tonal preference leans towards the bluesy, round, clean with some hair on it, when not engaging an Exotic RC or AC Booster. Think Anson Funderburgh & Kid Ramos (each is different, but in the same family). Usually use a reissue '57 with Fralin single coils. For an 18 watt, I imagine I will need all the headroom I can get. Does the Master pot interfere sonically? If not, I imagine I could use a high gain V1....or am I on the wrong scent?
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Post by myles on May 23, 2006 12:10:42 GMT -7
Myles, I bit the hook clean off when I saw a Phil Jones Bass Six-Pack up for sale on ebay the other night. You have lauded PJB and I wanted to see for myself. If PJB gets the job done, you have my thanks. If this isn't the sound for me, you still have my thanks. The PJB stuff is amazing. It is the first bass amp that blew me away since the SVT. In any case, report back after you play a bit! |
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Post by myles on May 23, 2006 12:18:56 GMT -7
Hohn... see below in the body of your post .... I have a Peavey Classic 100 head. I bought it used about 7-8yrs ago off Ebay, and it's had a somewhat tough life since then. Have you ever replaced the output set?It once did a Peter Pan off a rack case. Sounded fine, until it started smoking badly in the middle of church. Cooling fan was a victim of the fall. But I found out it worked if I put the amp on it's side. So I have used it since. Lately, I've been using it as a power amp only-- I run my Mesa Preamp's outs right into the effects return. Sounded MUCH better when bypassing the front end of the Peavey. The tone stack just sucked the tone right out. Then I went to go trade it in, and the store found that the dirty channel was kaput. Never occurred to me, because I hadn't been using the front side of the amp. The clean channel works perfectly, but the dirty size just makes a static-like buzz that sounds like something is blown. This could be many things. You could have broken a solder connection on the PCB or damaged a number of things.Could it be just something as simple as a bad preamp tube? I'm assuming that the dirty channel circuit uses a gain stage in the preamp that the clean channel doesn't. Hence, a bad tube would explain it. This could be a LOT of things and if the fan broke the amp hit hard enough that all bets of reliability are off. You need to take the amp to a good tech.Also, I want to fix the cooling fan. Previous experience tells me NOT to take it to an "authorized Peavey repair center" (long story with a Classic 30-- ended up paying $168 for an $8 diode). I've seen "muffin fans" for sale that might be appropriate. Where can I get a fan for this thing? "Do you know the muffin fan? The muffin fan? Yes, the muffin fan! Who lives on drury lane?" Anyway, I digress. You can get a fan from any electrical supply house.Finally, I need to retube this joker anyway. It takes EIGHT EL84s. I had good luck with the JJs in a Classic 30, but I'm open to suggestions for alternatives. In these amps I use the EL84S in a #5-6 rating only. HIgher numbers run way too hot and lower numbers are too cold and grainy.Also, what about alternative preamp tubes? I dont remember if it takes 3 or 4 (3 seems to be in my memory). Tonally, I'd like something more akin to a 100W classic 30. That 30 sounded so much better than this 100 does. ECC83S in V1 and V2 for a Brit flavor and 12AX7C in v1 and v2 for a smoother and more linear amp. It is basically user preference and taste.I know it's almost sacrilege to talk about a Peavey Classic on a forum like this, but I'd like to have the option of this amp as a backup, or for a louder capability. It is fine and dandy to talk about any amp in this forum as far as my own point of view. Most of the folks here have more than one amp and there is a lot of personal expertise in there among the members of the forum. And ... in this forum there seems to be the highest percentage of folks that want to help others rather than just b*tch and complain. The Z forum is a shining beacon of the stormy seas of the Internet Muchas Gracias in advance... Justin |
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Post by myles on May 23, 2006 12:22:30 GMT -7
Hello Myles, I'm new to Z amps, have a Maz jr. reverb. need to know recommended tubes for V1 on through ouputs, also, which is the reverb tube, and is the reverb function split between two triodes. I will try to get a bilaterally matched phase inverter tube as you recommend in other parts of the site. What is your thinking on 70's Matsunutsa OEM preamp triodes? My general tonal preference leans towards the bluesy, round, clean with some hair on it, when not engaging an Exotic RC or AC Booster. Think Anson Funderburgh & Kid Ramos (each is different, but in the same family). Usually use a reissue '57 with Fralin single coils. For an 18 watt, I imagine I will need all the headroom I can get. Does the Master pot interfere sonically? If not, I imagine I could use a high gain V1....or am I on the wrong scent? In the MAZ Jr Reverb .... v1 and v2 are your tone and gain stages. Different 12AX7 types in these positions will yield cool changes. It is really user taste and preference. Most of my own clients have little kits with different tubes for diffrerent requirements. v3 is the reverb driver and v4 is the return for the most part. Just use good quality tubes that are not noisy. If your reverb is working fine then just leave what is in there in there. v5 is the phase inverter and this can do a LOT more than many would lead you to think. Try it and see. I personally prefer long plate phase inverters in this amp such as the GT-12AX7M and Sovtek 12AX7LPS. |
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Post by guitarman1 on May 25, 2006 7:50:38 GMT -7
Hello Myles. Yesterday when I turned on my ray, I started hearing some sputtering and grumbling through the speakers. It went away after about 20 seconds, but my output was reduced 80% from normal volume. When shutting the amp off the noise returns for about 15 seconds. I swapped every tube except for the Dario EF86 (I don't have another), but the problem persisted. This morning, all I get is some hum, and no signal from the guitar is heard. What I did notice was if I send the signal out of the fx loop, into an effect, and back in to the amp, I can hear the guitar through the speakers. Remove the cables from the loop and no guitar is heard.
I'm hoping it's the EF86 and I have a NOS Mullard coming from KCA, but I'm stressing until it arrives. I'm also affraid of putting in a $60.00 Mullard and having that possibly damaged if there's a problem with the amp
Steve
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Post by myles on May 25, 2006 8:20:36 GMT -7
Hello Myles. Yesterday when I turned on my ray, I started hearing some sputtering and grumbling through the speakers. It went away after about 20 seconds, but my output was reduced 80% from normal volume. When shutting the amp off the noise returns for about 15 seconds. I swapped every tube except for the Dario EF86 (I don't have another), but the problem persisted. This morning, all I get is some hum, and no signal from the guitar is heard. What I did notice was if I send the signal out of the fx loop, into an effect, and back in to the amp, I can hear the guitar through the speakers. Remove the cables from the loop and no guitar is heard. I'm hoping it's the EF86 and I have a NOS Mullard coming from KCA, but I'm stressing until it arrives. I'm also affraid of putting in a $60.00 Mullard and having that possibly damaged if there's a problem with the amp Steve Steve, It is most likely V1, the EF86. But ... it may be these things too if NOT the EF86. Check the cables to the cab (remove and re-insert). You may also have a bad output tube. If this is the case, as these amps are not that old the entire output set would be replaced under warranty if less than three months old (preamp tubes are under warranty for six months by the way) and you can contact GT for free replacement. If it is not one of these things give me a call at GT at 1-800-459-5687 in the mornings PST. |
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Post by Bill on May 25, 2006 8:49:05 GMT -7
Hello Myles. Yesterday when I turned on my ray, I started hearing some sputtering and grumbling through the speakers. It went away after about 20 seconds, but my output was reduced 80% from normal volume. When shutting the amp off the noise returns for about 15 seconds. I swapped every tube except for the Dario EF86 (I don't have another), but the problem persisted. This morning, all I get is some hum, and no signal from the guitar is heard. What I did notice was if I send the signal out of the fx loop, into an effect, and back in to the amp, I can hear the guitar through the speakers. Remove the cables from the loop and no guitar is heard. I'm hoping it's the EF86 and I have a NOS Mullard coming from KCA, but I'm stressing until it arrives. I'm also affraid of putting in a $60.00 Mullard and having that possibly damaged if there's a problem with the amp Steve Steve, It is most likely V1, the EF86. But ... it may be these things too if NOT the EF86. Check the cables to the cab (remove and re-insert). You may also have a bad output tube. If this is the case, as these amps are not that old the entire output set would be replaced under warranty if less than three months old (preamp tubes are under warranty for six months by the way) and you can contact GT for free replacement. If it is not one of these things give me a call at GT at 1-800-459-5687 in the mornings PST. Steve, I had a similar problem with my Stingray a month ago...not sputtering or noise, but a severe drop in volume. After some tube checks, I replaced the 12AX7 and it's been fine since. Hope you find the problem soon. |
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Post by guitarman1 on May 26, 2006 8:57:57 GMT -7
Hello again Myles. I posted this in the General Section, but got to thinking that you would be the guy to answer this. I was thinking about buying one of Ted Webers Copper Cap solid state rectifiers to carry as a spare, in case I lost a GZ34/5AR4 during a gig. I think these solid state devices would stand up better than a tube to all the knocks and bangs my gig bag gets. For $20.00, it seems like a good emergency replacement. Has anyone here tried a Copper Cap? How do they sound? Are there other solid state rectifiers available for less money? Can they cause any problems with increased voltage, etc.? Since this original post, I found this link on the web for Sovtek SS Rectifiers. The ad seems to say that one size can replace three different types of tubes. www.guitar-parts.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=2&product=1031Thanks, Steve |
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Post by Telemanic on May 26, 2006 11:39:15 GMT -7
Hi guitarman1, while were waiting for Myles' expertise, i can tell you that i had for quite some time a SS recto plug in in my 65 vibrolux for a little more headroom ( i since have switched back to a GZ), and found it nice if not a bit more brittle feeling. Cranked up tho it was great, just more clarity and definition at high volumes. Also i wonder if there is a difference in sound from one SS to another ? Is that possible being just a simple diode rectification network ? I'll be curious as to the possibility of using it as a "on the spot back up", my understanding is that it will require you to re-bias the amp, or should anyway. Perhaps tho, it is only a few MA difference, and could therefore be used for a short time without biasing ? Myles, ?
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