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Post by kccheers on May 26, 2006 20:18:41 GMT -7
Hey Miles or Chad....a quick question about changing Grill Cloth.
I recently ordered and recieved a second 2x12 cab that I am gonna use with my RxES. I got the first one last October, the second one was built this March. In that time the grill cloth had changed ever so slightly, but enough to make you go "hmmmmm". My dealer is working to get me a new piece that matches the one I just received, but I haven't gotten so far as to figure out how I'm gonna get it on.
My question to either one of you is how do you go about changing the grill cloth on one of Z's cabs?
Thanx in asvance, Sam from KC
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Post by phooey on May 27, 2006 15:08:08 GMT -7
fairly easy but time consuming your first time at it. i changed out the black panels for the blonde ones on brad's down stage cabinets not too long ago and the first one took me an hour. the second only about 15 minutes. you have to go the same route to change the grille clothe. there's a few screws in the back holding the grille and panel onto the baffle board. the hardest thing is stapling the piping back on. when you pull it off you'll see immediatley how it goes together
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Post by myles on May 27, 2006 18:55:11 GMT -7
Hello again Myles. I posted this in the General Section, but got to thinking that you would be the guy to answer this. I was thinking about buying one of Ted Webers Copper Cap solid state rectifiers to carry as a spare, in case I lost a GZ34/5AR4 during a gig. I think these solid state devices would stand up better than a tube to all the knocks and bangs my gig bag gets. For $20.00, it seems like a good emergency replacement. Has anyone here tried a Copper Cap? How do they sound? Are there other solid state rectifiers available for less money? Can they cause any problems with increased voltage, etc.? Since this original post, I found this link on the web for Sovtek SS Rectifiers. The ad seems to say that one size can replace three different types of tubes. www.guitar-parts.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=2&product=1031Thanks, Steve Steve, I have used these and the GT solid state replacements. I think from your photo you have a Stingray. I do not like SS rectifiers in the Stingray, they are too stiff and wear the tubes faster due to increased plate voltage. Rectifiers are generally ultra reliable if you have a good one and they do not wear out ... they are good or bad. New GZ34's are $25 retail and from GC probably less. Keep a spare. If you get an NOS rectifier from Mike at KCA you will probably never need another one again. |
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Post by myles on May 27, 2006 18:56:12 GMT -7
fairly easy but time consuming your first time at it. i changed out the black panels for the blonde ones on brad's down stage cabinets not too long ago and the first one took me an hour. the second only about 15 minutes. you have to go the same route to change the grille clothe. there's a few screws in the back holding the grille and panel onto the baffle board. the hardest thing is stapling the piping back on. when you pull it off you'll see immediatley how it goes together Chad ... I am glad you answered this because ..... I have never replaced grill cloth on any amp in my life and would not have a clue ;D |
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Post by guitarman1 on May 30, 2006 10:37:29 GMT -7
Hello again Myles. I posted this in the General Section, but got to thinking that you would be the guy to answer this. I was thinking about buying one of Ted Webers Copper Cap solid state rectifiers to carry as a spare, in case I lost a GZ34/5AR4 during a gig. I think these solid state devices would stand up better than a tube to all the knocks and bangs my gig bag gets. For $20.00, it seems like a good emergency replacement. Has anyone here tried a Copper Cap? How do they sound? Are there other solid state rectifiers available for less money? Can they cause any problems with increased voltage, etc.? Since this original post, I found this link on the web for Sovtek SS Rectifiers. The ad seems to say that one size can replace three different types of tubes. www.guitar-parts.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=2&product=1031Thanks, Steve Steve, I have used these and the GT solid state replacements. I think from your photo you have a Stingray. I do not like SS rectifiers in the Stingray, they are too stiff and wear the tubes faster due to increased plate voltage. Rectifiers are generally ultra reliable if you have a good one and they do not wear out ... they are good or bad. New GZ34's are $25 retail and from GC probably less. Keep a spare. If you get an NOS rectifier from Mike at KCA you will probably never need another one again. Thanks for your input on the Copper Caps Myles. I just stumbled on your PI recommendations for the Stingray thread and have a question regarding NOS PIs. I know you generally recommend change the PI with every power tube change. Does this apply to NOS PIs, or will they last longer than the Sovtek LPS in that position. The reason I ask is I'm thinking of trying a NOS GE 5751 Blackplate in my Stingray, but at $55.00 a pop, I hesitate if I need to replace it with every el-84 change. Also, what's your opinion on the NOS JAN GE 5751 for the PI in a Stingray? KCA has these balanced at $23.00 per. Steve |
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Post by myles on May 30, 2006 15:14:27 GMT -7
Steve, I have used these and the GT solid state replacements. I think from your photo you have a Stingray. I do not like SS rectifiers in the Stingray, they are too stiff and wear the tubes faster due to increased plate voltage. Rectifiers are generally ultra reliable if you have a good one and they do not wear out ... they are good or bad. New GZ34's are $25 retail and from GC probably less. Keep a spare. If you get an NOS rectifier from Mike at KCA you will probably never need another one again. Thanks for your input on the Copper Caps Myles. I just stumbled on your PI recommendations for the Stingray thread and have a question regarding NOS PIs. I know you generally recommend change the PI with every power tube change. Does this apply to NOS PIs, or will they last longer than the Sovtek LPS in that position. The reason I ask is I'm thinking of trying a NOS GE 5751 Blackplate in my Stingray, but at $55.00 a pop, I hesitate if I need to replace it with every el-84 change. Also, what's your opinion on the NOS JAN GE 5751 for the PI in a Stingray? KCA has these balanced at $23.00 per. Steve Steve, Some amps have output sections that are really hard to drive and some amps have masters that let you blast the phase inverter and then limit it's feed to the output tubes to drop level of the output section. This is the basis for worst case where I say replace the PI every output tube change or two. The EL84 is a tube that is pretty easily driven. The Stingray, Mazerati, and Rx / RxES are amps that are pretty easy on phase inverters. The Vox AC-30 can kill them a lot faster due to the lack of air and cooling in these amps as a side note. I am running a long term test with an RxES, MAZ 38, and Mazerati in regard to tube wear. I am also keeping an eye on Sam Austin's Stingray PI and I just sent Chad Weaver (Brad Paisley) ten different phase inverters where I collected all the specs and will monitor these. At this point I feel the Stingray can go at least five output tube changes before the phase inverter is touched, or about 1500 hours. As I get more time on these amps I will be able to be more precise. Brad's amps get around alot due to travel and this can hurt tubes more from the wear of playing and those hours playing. The tubes I have for Brad are all recorded and numbered so when Chad changes some in the future he can send an old one back and I can look at it's history and learn even more. Bottom line .... The 12AX7LPS will probably become microphonic before it wears out in a "ray". An NOS 5751 will last a LONG time due to shorter plate structure (so it will not be a prone to physical microphonics) and 20% less current output vs a 12AX7. |
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Post by Hohn on May 31, 2006 11:39:10 GMT -7
I don't know if this was mentioned before, but combining a 60W speaker and a 30W speaker will not give you 90W of power handling. If you hit it with 90W, you'll fry the 30W speaker.
Assuming that the impedances are the same, you'll always have the same amount of current flowing through both drivers in a 2x12.
Since the current is the same, and impedance is the same, that means the POWER is the same as well.
So if you send 90W to a 2x12, you get 45W at each speaker, and 45W might be enough to cook a 30W speaker.
If you combine a 60W speaker and a 30W speaker in one cab, the total power handling of the cab is 60W.
Total power handling will always equal the lowest wattage speaker times the number of speakers (30W times 2 speaker=60W in this case).
If I put a 15W Blue in a 4x12 with three other 100W speakers, the total power handling of the cab is going to be 60W (4 times the Blue's 15W).
More than 60W, and that Blue may blow while the other 3 speakers are fine....
Hope I explained this right.
Justin
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Post by myles on May 31, 2006 12:33:13 GMT -7
I don't know if this was mentioned before, but combining a 60W speaker and a 30W speaker will not give you 90W of power handling. If you hit it with 90W, you'll fry the 30W speaker. Assuming that the impedances are the same, you'll always have the same amount of current flowing through both drivers in a 2x12. Since the current is the same, and impedance is the same, that means the POWER is the same as well. So if you send 90W to a 2x12, you get 45W at each speaker, and 45W might be enough to cook a 30W speaker. If you combine a 60W speaker and a 30W speaker in one cab, the total power handling of the cab is 60W. Total power handling will always equal the lowest wattage speaker times the number of speakers (30W times 2 speaker=60W in this case). If I put a 15W Blue in a 4x12 with three other 100W speakers, the total power handling of the cab is going to be 60W (4 times the Blue's 15W). More than 60W, and that Blue may blow while the other 3 speakers are fine.... Hope I explained this right. Justin Justin, You are correct .... 90 watts from two speakers will be evenly split into 45 watts each .... |
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Post by Deleted on May 31, 2006 12:43:01 GMT -7
Does this mean the stock Z-best 212 cab won't be able to handle the Delta88?
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Post by Hohn on May 31, 2006 13:16:17 GMT -7
Not to answer for Myles, but based on what I can see in this thread, no-- the Z-best with a V30 (60w) and a G12H (30W) only has a power handling of 60W.
What is the power rating of the 88? 60W is a LOT of level imo, especially if you're not playing clean.
Justin
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Post by myles on Jun 1, 2006 8:55:08 GMT -7
Not to answer for Myles, but based on what I can see in this thread, no-- the Z-best with a V30 (60w) and a G12H (30W) only has a power handling of 60W. What is the power rating of the 88? 60W is a LOT of level imo, especially if you're not playing clean. Justin Justin, You are correct but I do use a stock Z-Best with a Delta 88, I just do not really crank it way up. In the "old days" of the first 100 watt Marshalls (and they could put out 140 watts pretty easily) the first cabs used 4 15 watt silver Celestions. Speaker failure was common with the amp cranked all the way up but if you were a bit reserved you could be just fine. The Delta 88 has a very agressive tone at lower volume levels. Frankly, you never have to turn these amps past noon on the volume to have a huge sound and this is fine a dandy in a stock Z-Best. |
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Post by kruzty on Jun 2, 2006 9:35:46 GMT -7
Myles, I have a curiosity questions: It seems like all the EL84 amps don't need/have a bias adjustment, but most others do. What is the reason that a 6v6 amp or EL34 amp can't operate without a bias adjustment like EL84 amps do?
That's one of the reasons I bought a BiValve (no worring about bias) and that's one of the reasons I started buying EL84 amps (although I'm not sure I would want to play anything else, now!).
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Post by myles on Jun 2, 2006 9:56:28 GMT -7
Myles, I have a curiosity questions: It seems like all the EL84 amps don't need/have a bias adjustment, but most others do. What is the reason that a 6v6 amp or EL34 amp can't operate without a bias adjustment like EL84 amps do? That's one of the reasons I bought a BiValve (no worring about bias) and that's one of the reasons I started buying EL84 amps (although I'm not sure I would want to play anything else, now!). There are two basic amp classes .... Class A and Class A/B. The more common way to look at this which is more accurate for our needs is cathode biased amps (EL-84 amps generally) and grid biased amps (6L6 etc). But ... keep in mind that there are a number of 6V6 amps such as tweed deluxes that are cathode biased yet a black face deluxe reverb is grid biased ... and there are more 6L6 and EL34 amps today that are cathode biased. As a side note, the Fender Blues Jr., which is an EL-84 amp is one of the few that is NOT cathode biased. It is grid biased and the EL84 was chosen over the 6V6 for economic reasons. Dr. Z EL-84 amps are cathode biased and self biasing. There are pros and cons to each type of design. Cathode biased amps run the output tubes at 100% no matter what the volume knob is set to .... produce way more heat, have shorter tube life, and less wattage .... BUT .... the are more touch sensitive, are as loud or louder of amp of twice their wattage which are grid biased at times (due to a more harmonic content) and there are other factors. This is one of the reasons why a Vox AC-30 at about 30 watts is just as loud as an 85 watt Fender Twin Reverb. On my GAB website there is an area where you can download a 200+ page tube primer that gets into all of this stuff in more detail. |
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Post by kruzty on Jun 2, 2006 10:04:26 GMT -7
Thanks, Myles. I read the primer awhile ago, but I think I lost some brain cells since then!  |
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Post by myles on Jun 2, 2006 10:57:10 GMT -7
Thanks, Myles. I read the primer awhile ago, but I think I lost some brain cells since then! That's okay ... the primer is still there  |
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Post by pata320 on Jun 3, 2006 15:42:35 GMT -7
Hey Chad...
I was curious on Paisley's early 63 strat, with the reissue neck, is the reissue neck a custom shop or just the reissue nitro laquer ones. I believe there was a time fender was making great reissue's closer to the originals until custom shop. Any idea what year his reissue neck is?
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Post by phooey on Jun 3, 2006 23:46:58 GMT -7
i asked him about that when i first saw the guitar and he didn't remember. zac probably knows. i think the boy's an encyclopedia for guitars
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Post by propellr on Jun 4, 2006 14:05:11 GMT -7
Myles,
I experienced a problem with my wife's new bass rig today.
Here's a short description of the rig:
Jazz Bass-->Strobostomp-->A.R.T. Tube M.P.-->Phil Jones Bass Six Pack Amplifier.
The J-Bass is a 2003 model, the Strobostomp is brand new, the Tube M.P. I bought 2 years ago and never used until the other night, the Amp is brand new, and so are the cables (2 12' Monster Bass cables and 1 3' Monster ProLink cable)
OK, here's what happened: The sound cut out altogether while I was playing. The lights on the amp were still on, and the yellow and red leds were coming on fine as I continued to play. The fan was still working on the amp, the green led on the Tube M.P. was also still on. I turned all the volumes down (bass, M.P., amp), unplugged everything, plugged the bass straight into the amp, and turned it back on. Volumes up, and everything fine. Turned off again, replugged everything in again, also everything fine, then cut out again, same song, second verse. This happened a third time. Each time, I waited several seconds after I turned off everything, before I turned on again. Also, there was a "click" when the sound cut out each time. I had the pickups fully on, the send and receive on the Tube M. P. set at about 10:00 each (with the 25 dbl. gain boost selected and the phase reverse also selected). The amp's preamp was fully on and the output was less than 1/2 way up. Both the parametric and graphic EQs were on, and the compresser was fully engaged. The Tube M.P. was left plugged in all night after a jam late last night. I also noticed last night (after first hooking up this brand new rig 2 nights ago) that something is up with the input jack on the Strobostomp-- either there is a short in the jack itself or the cable is bad (when I jiggled it, it would go to less than 1/2 volume and I heard static coming through the amp (the static I heard with hands off of the tuner input jack, not while fiddling with it.)
Did the tube overheat in the Tube M.P and shut itself off? Did the amp overheat and shut down the speakers? Do I have a bad outlet where I plugged in the Tube M.P.? What is your opinion and what should I do?
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Post by myles on Jun 5, 2006 9:49:42 GMT -7
Myles, I experienced a problem with my wife's new bass rig today. Here's a short description of the rig: Jazz Bass-->Strobostomp-->A.R.T. Tube M.P.-->Phil Jones Bass Six Pack Amplifier. The J-Bass is a 2003 model, the Strobostomp is brand new, the Tube M.P. I bought 2 years ago and never used until the other night, the Amp is brand new, and so are the cables (2 12' Monster Bass cables and 1 3' Monster ProLink cable) OK, here's what happened: The sound cut out altogether while I was playing. The lights on the amp were still on, and the yellow and red leds were coming on fine as I continued to play. The fan was still working on the amp, the green led on the Tube M.P. was also still on. I turned all the volumes down (bass, M.P., amp), unplugged everything, plugged the bass straight into the amp, and turned it back on. Volumes up, and everything fine. Turned off again, replugged everything in again, also everything fine, then cut out again, same song, second verse. This happened a third time. Each time, I waited several seconds after I turned off everything, before I turned on again. Also, there was a "click" when the sound cut out each time. I had the pickups fully on, the send and receive on the Tube M. P. set at about 10:00 each (with the 25 dbl. gain boost selected and the phase reverse also selected). The amp's preamp was fully on and the output was less than 1/2 way up. Both the parametric and graphic EQs were on, and the compresser was fully engaged. The Tube M.P. was left plugged in all night after a jam late last night. I also noticed last night (after first hooking up this brand new rig 2 nights ago) that something is up with the input jack on the Strobostomp-- either there is a short in the jack itself or the cable is bad (when I jiggled it, it would go to less than 1/2 volume and I heard static coming through the amp (the static I heard with hands off of the tuner input jack, not while fiddling with it.) Did the tube overheat in the Tube M.P and shut itself off? Did the amp overheat and shut down the speakers? Do I have a bad outlet where I plugged in the Tube M.P.? What is your opinion and what should I do? Try running direct without the ART .... we can try to narrow things down a bit. |
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Post by wired on Jun 7, 2006 7:51:27 GMT -7
Hi. I just built Dave Hunter's project single ended Two Stroke amp. I am having trouble with squealing from the preamp tube if it is a 5751 or 12AX7(tube recommended). I thought it was just a microphonic tube but after multiple tubes I knew were good- same thing. I put in a 6072 and it was on the verge of squeal but usable. I then thought I'd put more NFB as the amp has a 68K resistor but changing down to 47K and 33K did not resolve it, but when I unhooked the NFB wire- voila! a great sounding amp that sounds like 30 watts( it is only 8W with the 2 6V6 tubes). The only thing different wiring wise I did was hard wire the 4 ohm tap to the speaker jack and from there to the NFB resistor whereas his layout had a 4ohm and 8 ohm OT taps wired to a SPDT on-on switch and the NFB wire coming from the resistor to the speaker jacks(2 in parallel) then to the center of the switch. Can you help or tell me where to get this answer? I like it fine without the NFB but it makes no sense to squeal with it hooked up except that it might be a parasitic loop. John
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Post by propellr on Jun 7, 2006 8:29:26 GMT -7
Try running direct without the ART .... we can try to narrow things down a bit. Will do, Myles. I'll let you know. |
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Post by kccheers on Jun 7, 2006 17:37:41 GMT -7
Myles or Chad.....I know this has probably been answered somewhere on the board, but here is my question:
I have the RxES with the 2x12 and am very near to getting a StangRay with the 2x12 cab. I have read about running the 2 amps together. How would this be done?
Cheers from KC
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Post by myles on Jun 7, 2006 18:20:51 GMT -7
Myles or Chad.....I know this has probably been answered somewhere on the board, but here is my question: I have the RxES with the 2x12 and am very near to getting a StangRay with the 2x12 cab. I have read about running the 2 amps together. How would this be done? Cheers from KC It depends on if it is two heads and two cabs or if you are going to use something like a Radial Engineering head switcher with both amps going to a single cab using one at a time. A simple A/B switch is all that is needed if it is two seperate amps. |
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Post by JASON (aka jgleaton) on Jun 9, 2006 11:29:28 GMT -7
Myles or Chad.....I know this has probably been answered somewhere on the board, but here is my question: I have the RxES with the 2x12 and am very near to getting a StangRay with the 2x12 cab. I have read about running the 2 amps together. How would this be done? Cheers from KC Radial head switcher works... I have one and you can run them both outta the same cab, but not at the same time... pretty neat but I don't use it live cause it's alot of extra setting up and cables to run... Standard A/B box will work to switch between them... but if your looking to run them BOTH at the same time.... Hope Chad chimes in as I'm NO expert but... he helped me with this also, so until he chimes in.... If your looking to run them both at the same time, something like the Radial a+ b/y box is good and has a separate tuner out AND it has a phase switch easily accessable on the top of it.... ( I also have the FRAMPONE ampswitcher which both of these are fine switchers but the framptones PHASE switches are INTERNAL and you have to crack it open to change this... as opposed to the Radials being on the top of the box. you can also make a speaker cable to use with one of the amps to change the phase by switching the wires inside the cable on one end, as Chad uses with BP to correct the phase when he runs these amps together) you'll need to flip that "Phase"switch up and put one of the two amps "out of phase" with the other... this actually makes the RAY and the RXES= IN PHASE as they are naturally out of phase with each other and if you run them that way they both sound a little weaker... but when you put one "out of phase" so to speak, to correct this.... WATCH OUT.... you BETTER get an AIRBREAK cause it is the BIGGEST FULLEST CLEAN with hair SOUND I HAVE ever heard in my life... I have yet to be able to use this set up live and unless I'm playing Shea Stadium with it unmiked I don't know if I'll ever be able to use it.... we've got 2 out door gigs on the 17th and I might try it but I'm afraid it's gonna still be too loud.... but the tone is UNREAL... I've also got the settings Chad told me he uses with brad and it went something like this: High input, volume 10:00-11:00 w/ Overdose on and tone knobs to taste.... with this setting you just don't need an OD pedal... just roll your volume back to clean it up or turn the Overdose on and off..... ... But I played around running mine together a little bit and found another I like too ( basically setting just like Chads suggestion but w/ out the Overdose on at all) and would probably use it that way because I like a little cleaner sound w/ hair from the RXES so I CAN use boost/ OD pedals for more drive.... Jason |
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Post by RC on Jun 9, 2006 22:23:09 GMT -7
Myles
Last weekend I was in our local guitar shop and during a conversation I had with the amp guy he said that setting a head on a speaker cab was really hard on the tubes. I always thought that any descent tube should be able to handle that amount of vibration and a lot more. If thats true then the tubes in a combo must really take a beating.
I'd like to get your thoughts on how robust most tubes are and if it would be better to set the head somewhere else.
Thanks, Russ
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Post by billyguitar on Jun 10, 2006 0:03:40 GMT -7
I can remember back in the early 70's retubing my Dual Showman and at the first gig the tubes starting to feedback. After that I always put the head either on a chair beside the humungous Dual Showman 2 x 15 cab or on some foam on top of the cab. In those days we didn't shiite from sunni when it came to tubes. We just went to Burstein Applebee and bought what they had, mostly Sylvanias as I recall. Probably weren't good tubes. Tubes cost more now but I'll wager on average they are better now. With the tubes now, you'd have less trouble than I did then. You're right combos are worse.
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Post by myles on Jun 10, 2006 13:21:51 GMT -7
Myles Last weekend I was in our local guitar shop and during a conversation I had with the amp guy he said that setting a head on a speaker cab was really hard on the tubes. I always thought that any descent tube should be able to handle that amount of vibration and a lot more. If thats true then the tubes in a combo must really take a beating. I'd like to get your thoughts on how robust most tubes are and if it would be better to set the head somewhere else. Thanks, Russ Russ, There is a certain amount of vibration but nowhere close to what combos subject the tubes to. The amps are designed for this. I disagree with your tech. |
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Post by myles on Jun 10, 2006 13:23:25 GMT -7
I can remember back in the early 70's retubing my Dual Showman and at the first gig the tubes starting to feedback. After that I always put the head either on a chair beside the humungous Dual Showman 2 x 15 cab or on some foam on top of the cab. In those days we didn't shiite from sunni when it came to tubes. We just went to Burstein Applebee and bought what they had, mostly Sylvanias as I recall. Probably weren't good tubes. Tubes cost more now but I'll wager on average they are better now. With the tubes now, you'd have less trouble than I did then. You're right combos are worse. The Sylvania STR387 that was one of the most used tubes in this amp by Fender during this era were terrific tubes. You may just have had a bad one in there. |
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Post by RC on Jun 11, 2006 8:15:42 GMT -7
Myles Last weekend I was in our local guitar shop and during a conversation I had with the amp guy he said that setting a head on a speaker cab was really hard on the tubes. I always thought that any descent tube should be able to handle that amount of vibration and a lot more. If thats true then the tubes in a combo must really take a beating. I'd like to get your thoughts on how robust most tubes are and if it would be better to set the head somewhere else. Thanks, Russ Russ, There is a certain amount of vibration but nowhere close to what combos subject the tubes to. The amps are designed for this. I disagree with your tech. Thanks Myles, Here's a little Karma for clearing this up for me. |
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Post by pata320 on Jun 11, 2006 10:57:52 GMT -7
Chad, do you have any idea what tuning Brad is playing in with his acoustic in the song "Raining You"? I figured he just played it with a capo on second fret or I could be wrong. Just curious. Thanks
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