swampstomper
Full Member
The only thing that really worried me was the ether.
Posts: 136
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Post by swampstomper on Nov 19, 2006 20:56:43 GMT -7
I just got my first Z on Friday, a MAZ18 NR 2x10 combo. I am THRILLED with this amp. I should have bought one of these years ago.
In any case, I am looking to order a complete set of spare tubes for it and I'm thinking that while I'm at it it might be a good idea to get some alternatives to what came stock to experiment with.
I'll list the tubes that it came with and if any of you have any suggestions for alternative choices and what effect they'd have I'd love to hear them.
V1- JJ ECC 83S V2- JJ ECC 83S V3- Sovtek 12AX7LPS
The rectifier is a Sovtek 5AR4 and the power tubes are GTEL84S, #6.
I've got a pretty good understanding of what the hardness rating on the power tubes means, but for the rest I really don't have a clue. I love the way the amp sounds now, but I wouldn't mind experimenting some and learning a bit more about the effect different tubes might have.
Also, what the heck are those two blue things hanging out in there?
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Post by John on Nov 20, 2006 7:49:15 GMT -7
If you're going to retube, among the other things people will chime in with in this forum.....get a "Matched Phase Inverter" tube for V3. Here is Myles website string where he addresses the MPI (matched phase inverter) www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/pastinfo.htmlAnd buy the way, if you're going to purchase a new set of tubes....since you probably don't know how old (and worn out) the current tubes are....why don't you make the current tubes the spares and have the new tubes be the ones you use in the amp? (this is only if you purchased it used) You might not even need to change V1 and V2....but if you purchased it used, I'd get a MPI and new power tubes.
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Post by hdahs143 on Nov 20, 2006 10:06:05 GMT -7
The "blue things" are filter capacitors.
THESE CAN CONTAIN LETHAL VOLTAGES FOR EXTENDED TIME PERIODS AFTER THE AMP IS TURNED OFF. DO NOT TOUCH ANY PARTS INSIDE THE CHASSIS.!!!!!
Now enjoy your amp!
Harold
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Post by Curt on Nov 20, 2006 11:28:18 GMT -7
Ditch the rec and get a nos, I've seen a vast improvement with that one swap.
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Post by John on Nov 20, 2006 12:10:22 GMT -7
As the chinese call them:
"The blue filter of death"
Seriously, they can hold lethal voltages for months, even years, that even at best, can launch you across the room and ruin your day. At worst, they can kill you.
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swampstomper
Full Member
The only thing that really worried me was the ether.
Posts: 136
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Post by swampstomper on Nov 21, 2006 0:53:25 GMT -7
If you're going to retube, among the other things people will chime in with in this forum.....get a "Matched Phase Inverter" tube for V3. Here is Myles website string where he addresses the MPI (matched phase inverter) www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/pastinfo.htmlAnd buy the way, if you're going to purchase a new set of tubes....since you probably don't know how old (and worn out) the current tubes are....why don't you make the current tubes the spares and have the new tubes be the ones you use in the amp? (this is only if you purchased it used) You might not even need to change V1 and V2....but if you purchased it used, I'd get a MPI and new power tubes. Thanks for the tips guys. I'm realizing now that there are quite a few choices out there. I suppose like anyone else I'm tempted by the NOS stuff, at least for the preamp and rectifier tubes. They're pretty expensive and while I don't mind spending the money I wonder if they are really that much better or not. I'll definitely go with a matched triode for V3 and probably a NOS tube for the rectifier. Oh, and thanks for the identification and warning about the filter caps. I'm not the type to go poking around with something when I don't know what it is and I don't see myself ever dropping the chassis on this amp. I leave that sort of thing to a professional.
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Seeker
New Member
Game On!
Posts: 7
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Post by Seeker on Apr 2, 2007 12:31:57 GMT -7
Swamp Stomper, I too recently came into position of a Maz 18 Jr NR. It came with V1: JJ ecc83, V2: JJ ecc83, PI: EH 12AX7LPS, Rectifier: JJ EZ34; Power: 2* GT E84LS. The amplifier sounds great stock, but I have a box of tubes and seek ultimate tone. Besides my expierience with the JJ ecc83 is that is is little sharp/bright/rough. I started by changing the Rectifier to a Matsushita NOS EZ34, phase inverter to a NOS Tung Sol (Admiral) 12AX7 long plate and V1 & V2 to new issue Svetlanas. I picked up a buzz and put the JJs back in V1 and V2. The buzz was one of the Svetlanas. I was going to put the Svetlanas in one at a time to find the buzzer, but the first one folded a pin and hit the bin. I skipped trying Svetlana #2 and broke out the NOS box. I love the Brimar CV4004 in V2 of any amp (one in V2 of Carr Hammerhead & one in V2 of an AC15CC1). It is a very even and open sounding tube in V2 and accentuates whatever is in V1. First I tried a JAN Phillips 12AX7WA in V1. Very dull and suppressed sound with insufficient gain, a no go. Then, I sifted through the used a bit tubes and came across an EI Gold Elite 12AX7/ECC83. Instant improvement, very lively sound with lots of sizzle. Lastly, I pulled the GT E84LS and put in a pair of Polam EL84s. It is all good and even better than stock. I will save the GT84LS for the AC15. In the mean time the Maz 18 Jr NR now has a warmer more bluesy tone with a little less headroom. The final talley V1: EI Elite 12AX7, V2: NOS Brimar CV4004, PI: NOS Admiral (Tung Sol OEM'ed) 12AX7, Rectifier: Matsushita NOS Japan EZ34 and Polam EL84 *2. May the tone be with you.
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swampstomper
Full Member
The only thing that really worried me was the ether.
Posts: 136
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Post by swampstomper on Apr 4, 2007 16:52:38 GMT -7
Swamp Stomper, I too recently came into position of a Maz 18 Jr NR. May the tone be with you. And also with you. Thanks for the info. I've been using NOS 5751s in V1 and V3 of my Jr. for a few months now. Seems perfect for me.
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herf
Junior Member
Posts: 80
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Post by herf on Apr 4, 2007 19:59:20 GMT -7
As the chinese call them: "The blue filter of death" Seriously, they can hold lethal voltages for months, even years, that even at best, can launch you across the room and ruin your day. At worst, they can kill you. This is why when you turn your amp off, you should only turn the power switch off and leave the standby switch on. That way, the caps will drain. This is true for the vast majority of amps, but I have not heard conclusively that it is true for all Dr. Z amps. Anyone know for sure?
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