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Post by iggs on Mar 16, 2006 7:25:51 GMT -7
Hey all,
thinking about getting a new guitar some time in the future. Right now I'm playing MusicMan Silhouette Special and I really like it. I might just get another one of those ... not looking for a different sound as much as I am looking into a 2nd guitar for backup. I like G&L Legacy HB ... just wondering what y'all think of them in general. If I wanted to spend some serious coin, I'd get a Tom Anderson or a Suhr but I'd like to keep it around $1200 - $1500 US.
Thanks!
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Post by pickupcentral on Mar 16, 2006 7:53:09 GMT -7
I have an S-500 that I absolutely love. G&L are well-built, great sounding guitars. For a Fender style guitar, they are an excellent choice.
-Phil
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Post by guitarman1 on Mar 16, 2006 11:34:41 GMT -7
Great guitars iggs. Fit & finish is better than most American Fenders. G&Ls don't hold their re-sale value and often sell at 50% less than the new selling price. They are a steal used and are always on Ebay.
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Post by flem on Mar 16, 2006 14:02:24 GMT -7
I recently bought a new Legcy with a #2 neck, fatter neck like on the ASAT. Action fit and finish were great. Plays great. Only thing I didn't like was the stock singles. They sound good at low volume but have that annoying hum when turned up so i replaced them with noiseless. The trem actually works! Stays in tune unless you bomb it of course.
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Post by iggs on Mar 16, 2006 14:20:20 GMT -7
I was wondering what the numbers mean for neck options ... I understand the radius and nut width, but what is the difference between #1, #2, #3 ... etc. as far as thickness is concerned?
Thanks.
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Post by flem on Mar 16, 2006 17:44:50 GMT -7
The numbers are different sizes and shapes. The #2 is like an old tele neck, round and fat, the #1 is more like the current fender line, thinner and flatter. One of them is a "C" shape and the other a "U" shape but I can never remember which one is C and which one is U.
Can someone describe the whole C V U neck shape thing?
Maybe I'll start a new thread on this.
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Post by iggs on Mar 17, 2006 7:08:36 GMT -7
Thanks for the info ... went to a G&L dealer yesterday and checked them out, very nice guitars for the money. The cool thing is that they can be easily custom ordered, so I'll most likely do that, I have a few specific things I'd like to have.
Trying to decide between Alder and Swamp Ash body ... most of the stuff I play is high-gain heavy rock ... any suggestions?
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Post by zdogma on Mar 17, 2006 7:18:08 GMT -7
Swamp ash looks much nicer in my opinion. Really pronounced grain pattern.
Tone wise, they are pretty similar, and have been used interchangably for years in strats and tele's. I would take swamp ash any day, just for looks.
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Post by guitarman1 on Mar 17, 2006 7:28:52 GMT -7
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Post by iggs on Mar 17, 2006 7:56:17 GMT -7
Great info! Thanks so much!
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Post by billyguitar on Mar 17, 2006 11:13:40 GMT -7
Tom Anderson also has a section on their site about the tone of different woods.
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Post by tjstrat on Apr 19, 2006 10:31:25 GMT -7
Not sure why this didn't take yesterday, but I own a pair of G&L Comanches, and these guitars were MADE for Dr Z amps. Total beasts, and a little difficult to figure out at first, but well worth a look. I got both for less than $1000.00 each too...
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Post by Curt on Apr 19, 2006 11:40:47 GMT -7
I was wondering what the numbers mean for neck options ... I understand the radius and nut width, but what is the difference between #1, #2, #3 ... etc. as far as thickness is concerned? Thanks. Go to the G&L site, then go to options, it list the neck specs there, nut width, radius, but nothing on back profile/thickness, that may take a call to the factory. While the gun oil is purdy, it can only be had with a gloss finish, for playabilty I highly recommend the standard satin finish, on the two I have had there was zero "sticky" factor.
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Post by Telemanic on Apr 19, 2006 15:04:08 GMT -7
I had a Legacy, beautifuly made, and one of the nicest finishes ive seen. Great hefty neck! Two things i didnt like were the stock PU's, i found them to be kind of HI-FI sounding, but easily replaced. The other was a personal thing, I despise floating trems, when doing big bends on a given string, all the others go flat, and if you break a string While playing live, your done right now! Theres no makin it to the end of the song on the remaining 5 strings, as they're now tuned to the key of L !! There is an easy mod i did by putting a blocking plate with cork on it, bettween the inside of the trem block cavity and the trem block itself. This allowed the trem to work downward but not upward, and the cork cushioned the return. Solved my dilema without blocking the trem all together.
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Post by Telemanic on Apr 19, 2006 15:06:58 GMT -7
P.S. I never tried a Tremsetter, perhaps it would alleviate the floating issues, If any ?
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