I've had my EZG50 for less than a year, & I think my power tubes are dying. Played it the past 2 weekends, & I have to crank both vols. to get any volume & the break-up starts at lower volumes. No clean headroom as before. I've only played this amp moderately since purchasing it, & I'm a little surprised at the limited life of these GT's. I'll replace them soon. Am I on the right track here?
Also, I know this is a redundant question, but do I need to have it rebiased if I replace w/the same tubes/#?
Thanks in advance!
EZG 50 Head & Z 1X12" cab w/G12-65 '72 Marshall JMP MKII 50 watt head & 2x12" open-back cab 2- early '70's Fender Vibrolux Reverbs early '70's Princeton Reverb Winfield Thomas Cyclone head & matching 1x12" cab '67 Vox AC15 Twin '72 & '78 Fender Telecasters
Ditto, it could be something simple like a preamp tube.
Are the power tubes' 'plates' (the part that is big and grey when the tube is off/cold/out of the amp) glowing red anywhere, after you turn the amp off of standby?
Don't confuse 'redplating' it with the heater glow. Heater glow is what you'll get on standby - in most amps ever build (especially new ones) the plates see no voltage on standby, which is the point of standby - so the plates can't be redplating at that point. Heater glow is all you'll have on standby. Compare that to any potential redplating.
If that's not it, yeah, check a preamp tube, check your speakers, check your instrument cable, check your speaker cable, Make sure that you're tubes are keyed in the socket properly, eliminate all the other the variables you can.
I'd send it right back if you eliminate all the variables, and with the old tubes (in case they break in transit , better the old ones than new ones), unless you have a friend who is versed in HV amps/electronics, to look it over for anything obvious or something simple you may be missing. It could be a bias issue, maybe the bias pot (does it have one in there?) got shaken or something into the point that the tubes are at or near cut-off?
No matter what, I wouldn't have anyone do any real solder work since it's under warantee. The only use of a good chassis look over is for preliminary diagnosis so you're not out an amp (or embarassed) by missing something simple that didn't need the Dr. It's probably not worth the cost to have a tech diagnose it formally if it's under warranty, spend that money on the shipping.
Did you buy it new? If so, it's under warranty and you can ship it back for repair. If not, it sounds like it might be as simple as swapping out preamp and/or power amp tubes. That is just the cost of doing business in tube amp world.
G&L ASAT Custom Gibson SG & Les Paul Fender Jazzmaster
Dr. Z amps: EZG-50, SRZ-65, Remedy, 6545 Germino Classic 45 Marshall 1959 SLP
Mojotone 2x12 Dr. Z Z-Best 2x12 Orange 4x12 Germino 2x12
Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Oct 20, 2010 4:05:02 GMT -7
Do yourself a favor, Put some good NOS 6L6's in it like some Tung Sol or The New GE , Even The Svlanta 6L's are great, I'm not a fan of Groove. Also If you Play the amp alot or push it all the time tube life is gonna be shortened. I would love to have an EZG-50, I just dont need that much power. I would love to see a 30watter made. Good luck with the EZG it may not be the Tubes check the Bias on them first.
14' THERAPY 96' SRZ-65RH KT77's MY#1 YR? SRZ-65LE #35-35 08' Z RED 2X12 SEMIOPEN GOLD/SCUMBAG J 67' SUPER REVERB GREENS & GOLDS 07' BADCAT PANTHER/R HEAD & 1x12 COMBO GOLD RED 1X12 BOOGIE THEILE EVM/L FENDER,PRS,GIBSON,EPPY,SCHECTER,YAMAHA,CHARVEL gone but never forgotten 07'GHIA 07'GALAXIE 08'STANGRAY 09'REMEDY 08' REINHARDT TITAN 64'BFDR 65'BFPR 08'REEVES C30
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