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Post by zdogma on Mar 15, 2006 15:19:14 GMT -7
Hi myles.
I have a couple of Ghia questions.
I'd like to sock away enough NOS 5y3's to last...forever I guess, before they disappear forever. I just bought 10 matched triode JAN 5751's from KCA for the same reason.
I only play it about 5 hours a week.
How often do you replace NOS 5y3 rectifiers in your ghia?
I have 3 now (NOS/NIB), but I'd like to get more while thay are cheap and available.
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Post by myles on Mar 15, 2006 18:16:19 GMT -7
Wow -I tried to understand but didn't absorb much. Let me ask this. I'm going to try one of the 7025s in V1 (I'm looking for headroom) SHould I also try one of them in the Phase Inverter ? Which one is that on my Maz Jr Reverb? How should the 7025 sound different from what came with the amp? (Sorry if I sound dumb - I really only know how to work the front of the amp and the guitar! - this is all new) Thanks so much for your patience and care. The phase inverter is the preamp tube most far from the input jack. For more headroom go to a 5751 or even 12AY7. This is not a dumb question at all by the way.
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Post by myles on Mar 15, 2006 18:22:48 GMT -7
Hi myles. I have a couple of Ghia questions. I'd like to sock away enough NOS 5y3's to last...forever I guess, before they disappear forever. I just bought 10 matched triode JAN 5751's from KCA for the same reason. I only play it about 5 hours a week. How often do you replace NOS 5y3 rectifiers in your ghia? I have 3 now (NOS/NIB), but I'd like to get more while thay are cheap and available. A few things about rectifiers.... 1 - they do not really wear out. They work or they do not and the 5Y3 is ultra reliable. Many 50s amps have their original rectifiers. 2 - there are TONS of them at low cost. Back in the military days, folks in supply depots must have not understood electronics! If they bought 40,000 5881's for use in B-52 radios they also bought 40,000 rectifiers for other things. So.... there is a huge surplus of 5Y3 rectifiers and even great NOS ones are still less than $20 for the most part. They die by physical breakage more than anything else. So ........ if you have a few of these stockpiled your Carmen Ghia will be played by your grandkids as the amp will last that long easily (built a lot better than the Fender tweeds of the fifties that are still with us today) and I mean it ... last for your grandkids ... even if you are 15 now and cannot possibly see that far down the road! You have enough 5751s to last forever BUT .... once you see what these do in the front end of a Fender black or silver face amp in V2 (old SRV trick) and as phase inverters in a lot of other amps you may find your 5751 stockpile gets used for other things. The 5751 in V2 of a Mantaray is smmmoooooooooooth..... as an example and in a MAZ Jr or Sr is great as the phase inverter too!
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Post by sae2111 on Mar 15, 2006 19:15:56 GMT -7
Greetings Myles. Bare with me......... What Z amp would you suggest for playing pretty heavy rock? I'm a strat guy who usually sticks to blues and only gets semi-dirty. I have been using a Sunn T50C and an Eric Johnson strat lately, but I'm in a new band and my old setup just doesn't cut it. I'm about to get an SG and I need a new amp to get chunky. Which Z would be the best? I'm planning on using a few pedals as well. If it helps, I have a Fulltone OCD and Full Drive 2 that I will be using. I don't want to go the conventional route with a Mesa or something like that. Thanks.
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Post by zdogma on Mar 15, 2006 20:05:24 GMT -7
Thanks miles ;D
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nick
Full Member
Posts: 136
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Post by nick on Mar 16, 2006 7:18:58 GMT -7
Hey Myles - My Maz 18 has been giving me some trouble. Every now and then, the volume "sags" a little, just kind of drops out some and then back in. I got it in Decemeber, but it was a floor model in a store before that. I've gigged it a few times, but there's no telling what was done to it prior to that.
Somebody told me that Z's in general go through tubes quicker than most other amps. Do you think I'm looking at a tube issue? I'm not really sure how to tell either way.
Thanks, and I'm still trying to come to LA to go flying with you, but life keeps getting in the way.
Nick
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Post by myles on Mar 16, 2006 10:26:12 GMT -7
Greetings Myles. Bare with me......... What Z amp would you suggest for playing pretty heavy rock? I'm a strat guy who usually sticks to blues and only gets semi-dirty. I have been using a Sunn T50C and an Eric Johnson strat lately, but I'm in a new band and my old setup just doesn't cut it. I'm about to get an SG and I need a new amp to get chunky. Which Z would be the best? I'm planning on using a few pedals as well. If it helps, I have a Fulltone OCD and Full Drive 2 that I will be using. I don't want to go the conventional route with a Mesa or something like that. Thanks. If you are doing the hard rock thing I'd check out a Delta 88. They are great with pedals and they are a very agressive amp. If you are more into the Marshall tones then the SRZ-65 would be something to consider but they really do not show up at a lot of dealers where you can try one. The Delta 88 has crunch right from the get go and is something of a picture of a hard rockers amp to say the least. You have no location in your profile but if you are anywhere near me in So Cal I would be happy to let you borrow a Delta 88 and SRZ 65 (or anything else) for a gig so you can see how they work in a live environment. I also have a pedalboard that you could borrow with about five different distortion pedals so you can see how each amp works with pedals.
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Post by myles on Mar 16, 2006 10:26:38 GMT -7
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Post by myles on Mar 16, 2006 10:31:00 GMT -7
Hey Myles - My Maz 18 has been giving me some trouble. Every now and then, the volume "sags" a little, just kind of drops out some and then back in. I got it in Decemeber, but it was a floor model in a store before that. I've gigged it a few times, but there's no telling what was done to it prior to that. Somebody told me that Z's in general go through tubes quicker than most other amps. Do you think I'm looking at a tube issue? I'm not really sure how to tell either way. Thanks, and I'm still trying to come to LA to go flying with you, but life keeps getting in the way. Nick Nick, The fastest and easiest thing to do would be to put in a new output set of EL84S in #6 rating. I am ready to take you up when you get out this way anytime. We can either go the aerobatic airplane route or helicopter route if you don't want to go upside down!
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nick
Full Member
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Post by nick on Mar 16, 2006 22:15:10 GMT -7
Thanks, Myles. I sent you a pm. Definately the aerobatic route....I love that stuff!
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Post by guitarhead on Mar 17, 2006 19:49:31 GMT -7
Hello Myles I already posted on this subject in the Maz 18 Jr. section. I notice when I play the Maz 18 I get odd sounding overtones when I play more than 1 note at a time. The overtones are in the bass frequencies. If I play any doublstops or 2 note bends I notice as I bend pitches up - overtones go down in pitch. It almost sounds like a ring modulator effect and makes things sound out of tune. Have you any idea what this could be? I have the head version of the amp and I play it through Dr. Z 2x12 open back cab loaded with Celestion v30 and g12h30 or a Fender 2x12 loaded with vintage 30's. The problem happens with both cabs. I bought the amp new about 4 or 5 months ago and have not played it that much.
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Post by guitarboy02451 on Mar 18, 2006 12:54:45 GMT -7
Hey Myles, this may be a stupid questions, please forgive my ignorance, but tubes normally glow red... How does Hughes and Kettner get their tubes to glow blue?
I'm always blown away when I watch my Rush 30th DVD and King Lerxst (Alex Lifeson) has his 5 H&K's glowing blue behind him... it's way cool!
pg
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Post by RC on Mar 19, 2006 13:00:14 GMT -7
Myles- Wow, your web site is one of the most informative and comprehensive I've seen. After reading many of your articles I realized I don't know squat about amps and tubes. I bought a new Ghia head and Z-best about 2 months ago and just love the sound and feel of this amp. I play a Gibson LP, mostly blues, rock and a little jazz(badly). After reading some of your articles on tube matching and tracing I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to get a full new set of tubes for my Ghia and keep the stock ones as back ups. It seems that with tubes the sum is greater than the parts. Can you recommend a good set that would be matched, traced, and what ever else you think is important. Also who could I get to put together and sell a set like this. I'm sure with close to a 1000 posts you've probably covered this, so my apologies in advance if you have. Thanks, Russ
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 10:30:33 GMT -7
Hello Myles I already posted on this subject in the Maz 18 Jr. section. I notice when I play the Maz 18 I get odd sounding overtones when I play more than 1 note at a time. The overtones are in the bass frequencies. If I play any doublstops or 2 note bends I notice as I bend pitches up - overtones go down in pitch. It almost sounds like a ring modulator effect and makes things sound out of tune. Have you any idea what this could be? I have the head version of the amp and I play it through Dr. Z 2x12 open back cab loaded with Celestion v30 and g12h30 or a Fender 2x12 loaded with vintage 30's. The problem happens with both cabs. I bought the amp new about 4 or 5 months ago and have not played it that much. Were the output tubes new when you bought the amp? That is the first thing I would change.
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 10:31:16 GMT -7
Hey Myles, this may be a stupid questions, please forgive my ignorance, but tubes normally glow red... How does Hughes and Kettner get their tubes to glow blue? I'm always blown away when I watch my Rush 30th DVD and King Lerxst (Alex Lifeson) has his 5 H&K's glowing blue behind him... it's way cool! pg Just run some blue lights behind the tubes.
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 10:49:03 GMT -7
Myles- Wow, your web site is one of the most informative and comprehensive I've seen. After reading many of your articles I realized I don't know squat about amps and tubes. I bought a new Ghia head and Z-best about 2 months ago and just love the sound and feel of this amp. I play a Gibson LP, mostly blues, rock and a little jazz(badly). After reading some of your articles on tube matching and tracing I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to get a full new set of tubes for my Ghia and keep the stock ones as back ups. It seems that with tubes the sum is greater than the parts. Can you recommend a good set that would be matched, traced, and what ever else you think is important. Also who could I get to put together and sell a set like this. I'm sure with close to a 1000 posts you've probably covered this, so my apologies in advance if you have. Thanks, Russ Russ, Tubes are really personal taste but in my own Carmen Ghia I use a Telefunken 12AX7 in V1. I normally find the Telefunkens way too bright in most amps. They are also VERY pricy but mine was a gift from somebody. You can also use this: www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1588 which is actually the same tube in many ways. It is the same plate tooling and built on the original Telefunken tooling at Ei as Ei was the OEM for Telefunken many years ago. But ... in the end, V1 is a matter of personal choice and taste. There is no "right or wrong". In v2 I use a 5751 phase inverter. This to me is the best bet and the most versitile. DO NOT USE NEW 5751 tubes from Sovtek. These do not trace anything like an original 5751. Some killer ones out there are from Mike at KCA: kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=55kcanostubes.com/content/estore_details.asp?category=&product=48The 5751 is also great in the first gain stage of many other amps and was used in Fender black face amps by SRV a lot. For output tubes I only use these: www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1216 in a 5-6 rating only. I have found that statically matched tubes do not last nearly as long and do not sustain as well as dynamically matched tubes in cathode biased amps. This may be because the static matched tube is only tested in one range and not at 100% or over. A cathode biased amp runs it output tubes at 100%+ and dynamic matching looks at the tube's distortion characteristics over the entire operating range (with the tubes under test running) and at at over 100% dissipation. If you ever order these off the GT website put a note in the comment section where you ask for #5-6 ONLY and to please show the order to Myles. I will then hand trace the tubes for you which normally costs $10 per tube extra but I do this for the folks here on this forum. They will be traced on this: There are not a lot of tube folks that have these. We have three of them.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2006 13:06:27 GMT -7
Myles noticed your one away from a 1000 posts. Hope you get a nifty new name.
Arun
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 13:57:00 GMT -7
Myles noticed your one away from a 1000 posts. Hope you get a nifty new name. Arun I did not see anything change actually
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Post by taswegian on Mar 20, 2006 16:04:07 GMT -7
You're admin stars have turned Z-natic Blue...or is that color Bluzsteel? Thanks for 1000 informative posts...and some other treats also. ;D
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Post by guitarhead on Mar 20, 2006 20:05:53 GMT -7
Myles I tried a brand new set of Groove Tubes EL84S's and still experience the same problem.
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 20:34:59 GMT -7
You're admin stars have turned Z-natic Blue...or is that color Bluzsteel? Thanks for 1000 informative posts...and some other treats also. ;D Actually the starts were that blue before 1000 posts! You are more than welcome.
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Post by myles on Mar 20, 2006 20:36:00 GMT -7
Myles I tried a brand new set of Groove Tubes EL84S's and still experience the same problem. What was the problem and the amp again? I can't keep track of everything here and I also get a few hundred emails a day on top of this.
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Post by RC on Mar 20, 2006 21:04:13 GMT -7
Myles, Thanks for all your help and information on tubes. I placed a order on the GT web site and asked them to show it to you. Thanks again, Russ
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Post by johnnyl on Mar 20, 2006 23:18:43 GMT -7
Howdy Myles or Mike, quick question for you - I have several really nice NOS 6V6's that one of my friend's dad's (old Army engineer) gave me. The problem is that they're mostly in singles. 2 different 60's RCA's with the black coverings (can't see through them) date codes - V4 & 2S 1 black base Zenith GT (USA) (yellow logo) 50's or 60's w/ smoked glass and square getter at top - date code 260(top) 5529 (bottom) 1 black base Amperex GTA (USA) (orange logo) 50's or 60's w clear glass and weird angled round getter near base (I have a feeling this one is a gem)
Are any of these really cool? Could I possibly use two of them together if I can get them to bias closely?
Thanks!
Johnny
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Post by myles on Mar 21, 2006 12:28:26 GMT -7
Myles, Thanks for all your help and information on tubes. I placed a order on the GT web site and asked them to show it to you. Thanks again, Russ Russ, You are more than welcome. Any GT order that comes in with my name or even an order than has any comment in the comment section of the order they bring to me.
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Post by myles on Mar 21, 2006 12:30:36 GMT -7
Howdy Myles or Mike, quick question for you - I have several really nice NOS 6V6's that one of my friend's dad's (old Army engineer) gave me. The problem is that they're mostly in singles. 2 different 60's RCA's with the black coverings (can't see through them) date codes - V4 & 2S 1 black base Zenith GT (USA) (yellow logo) 50's or 60's w/ smoked glass and square getter at top - date code 260(top) 5529 (bottom) 1 black base Amperex GTA (USA) (orange logo) 50's or 60's w clear glass and weird angled round getter near base (I have a feeling this one is a gem) Are any of these really cool? Could I possibly use two of them together if I can get them to bias closely? Thanks! Johnny All of these can be great and if you can find some that match closely (20% static match was industry standard and anything better than 10% is very good) then you are in business. At many times I love to use two different tubes that trace or match closely as the break down differently and can sound really nice.
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Post by guitarhead on Mar 22, 2006 21:17:58 GMT -7
Myles I tried a brand new set of Groove Tubes EL84S's and still experience the same problem. What was the problem and the amp again? I can't keep track of everything here and I also get a few hundred emails a day on top of this. Myles......It's the Maz 18 junior with overtones(ring modulator/non musical)
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Post by myles on Mar 23, 2006 11:45:30 GMT -7
What was the problem and the amp again? I can't keep track of everything here and I also get a few hundred emails a day on top of this. Myles......It's the Maz 18 junior with overtones(ring modulator/non musical) Grab a known good 12AX7 and try it in each preamp tube socket, one at a time, so we can eliminate tubes. Tubes are 90% of problems. Are you sure the noise is from the speaker and not a physical issue from the amp/cab itself? If the amp is a combo, unplug the internal speaker and try and extension cab. That way we can eliminate physical interaction. It is easy to mistake physical issues as electrical issues.
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Post by pedalcr8z on Mar 24, 2006 4:29:37 GMT -7
6L6GE bias the same as 5881? How mnay db less gain is 5881?
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Post by myles on Mar 24, 2006 11:48:13 GMT -7
6L6GE bias the same as 5881? How mnay db less gain is 5881? The bias is the same unless it is a real Tung Sol 5881. Then I change things a bit. Output tubes are not rated as far as "gain". The 5881 and 6L6 are the same family.
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