redgl
Junior Member
Posts: 62
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Post by redgl on Feb 12, 2006 15:38:20 GMT -7
From the manual:
"Effects such as echo or loop-playing devices must be connected before the Headbone so that their residual or sustaining sound can be disconnected from the input of the amplifiers. This means you cannot use any type of echo device that prolongs a signal on the amplifiers effects loop or after the headbone in your signal chain. Failure to do so could cause the echo to continue to play through the standby amp which, in turn , would continue to amplify the signal without a load. This could cause the amp or the Headbone to malfunction. The Headbone's internal resistor load is only designed to support the standby amplifier's residual output. The Headbone is not a load box."
I will contact them and see if there's a way. If not I'll just deal with it. The delay sounds fine --when it's off (ha ha), so I'll just use it more sparingly. I'm still glad I got the Tonebone because it works great.
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Post by guitarboy02451 on Feb 12, 2006 16:03:17 GMT -7
Myles, We often through the term "Hi-Gain Amp" around. My JCM900 is a Hi-Gain... What exactly is a "Hi-Gain"? pg Hi gain is relative .... What is a "fast" car? What I mean is; The front of my JCM900 states "Hi-Gain" Dual Reverb. Does this term normally associate with to the large head style amps that sit on top of 4x12's such as; Marshalls, PV-5150's, Aiken's, Diezel, Bogner, Custom Audio? I was just wondering why they are called Hi-Gain" If there is no reason, then I guess there is no reason. Oh well... ;-) pg |
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redgl
Junior Member
Posts: 62
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Post by redgl on Feb 13, 2006 10:10:02 GMT -7
From the manual: "Effects such as echo or loop-playing devices must be connected before the Headbone so that their residual or sustaining sound can be disconnected from the input of the amplifiers. This means you cannot use any type of echo device that prolongs a signal on the amplifiers effects loop or after the headbone in your signal chain. Failure to do so could cause the echo to continue to play through the standby amp which, in turn , would continue to amplify the signal without a load. This could cause the amp or the Headbone to malfunction. The Headbone's internal resistor load is only designed to support the standby amplifier's residual output. The Headbone is not a load box." I will contact them and see if there's a way. If not I'll just deal with it. The delay sounds fine --when it's off (ha ha), so I'll just use it more sparingly. I'm still glad I got the Tonebone because it works great. |
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redgl
Junior Member
Posts: 62
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Post by redgl on Feb 13, 2006 10:12:28 GMT -7
Here's the reply I got from a service tech:
Hi Dave, unfortunatly you cannot use the delay in the effects loop. Because
of the size of the box we can only put a load resistor in for an Amp in its
no signal state. A delay would cause the amp put out signal onto the load
resistor possible damaging the amp or the Headbone.
Regards
Paul Blake
Service Technician
Email: paulblake@cabletek.ca
Oh well.
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Post by myles on Feb 13, 2006 11:22:37 GMT -7
Hi gain is relative .... What is a "fast" car? What I mean is; The front of my JCM900 states "Hi-Gain" Dual Reverb. Does this term normally associate with to the large head style amps that sit on top of 4x12's such as; Marshalls, PV-5150's, Aiken's, Diezel, Bogner, Custom Audio? I was just wondering why they are called Hi-Gain" If there is no reason, then I guess there is no reason. Oh well... ;-) pg This is just a matter of symantics ... the 900 was considered a hi gain amp compared to a Fender Twin as an example. Some Mesa Recto folks or Peavey 5152 folks may not think the amp is high gain by some of todays standards but personally, I consider even the Plexi era Marshalls as hi gain amps. Too much front end gain has all sorts of disadvantages unless you play nothing but power chords  |
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Post by guitarboy02451 on Feb 13, 2006 19:12:58 GMT -7
What I mean is; The front of my JCM900 states "Hi-Gain" Dual Reverb. Does this term normally associate with to the large head style amps that sit on top of 4x12's such as; Marshalls, PV-5150's, Aiken's, Diezel, Bogner, Custom Audio? I was just wondering why they are called Hi-Gain" If there is no reason, then I guess there is no reason. Oh well... ;-) pg I got it now.. Thanks! This is just a matter of symantics ... the 900 was considered a hi gain amp compared to a Fender Twin as an example. Some Mesa Recto folks or Peavey 5152 folks may not think the amp is high gain by some of todays standards but personally, I consider even the Plexi era Marshalls as hi gain amps. Too much front end gain has all sorts of disadvantages unless you play nothing but power chords |
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Post by skydog on Feb 18, 2006 16:08:35 GMT -7
Myles,
My MAZ 38 Sr. was shipped with the reverb tub pulled and packed in bubble wrap. But, when I hooked it back up I get no reverb. I've verfiied the in/out connections from the amp are correct and checked continuity from the tub RCA to the slide on connector at the transducers. When I run a signal generator into the input I get nothing at the output of the tub. The input coil looks loose and wiggles around while the output transducer feels tighter. Is that normal? What are "normal" levels going in and coming out of tub? Can I bypass the tub to check the amp?
Regards,
Jeff
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Post by skydog on Feb 18, 2006 16:30:05 GMT -7
Myles,
Just read the Accutronics web info and found these tubs need a rather stiff signal. If I place a comparabe load resistor (on the cable from the amp chassis) based on my reverb type, what should the drive capability of the amp be?
Regards,
Jeff
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Post by myles on Feb 19, 2006 17:36:32 GMT -7
Myles, Just read the Accutronics web info and found these tubs need a rather stiff signal. If I place a comparabe load resistor (on the cable from the amp chassis) based on my reverb type, what should the drive capability of the amp be? Regards, Jeff Jeff, These amps have a reverb that is more than most could ever hope for. leave it stock .... just have a good V3 and V4. |
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Post by Buzz Fretwear (Ignatius) on Feb 21, 2006 15:09:59 GMT -7
Hi Myles,
In the Mazerati section I have a thread regarding a weird, lower octave woofy overtone that I'm getting with my 1x12 Mazerati combo when I play a B on the low E string. The speaker is an Eminence Tonker. I've been doing some reading on other boards and I have seen the term "ghost note" that seems to describe what I'm getting, and I see that ghost notes can sometimes be attributable to an amp rather than a speaker. Is this phenomenon caused by something wrong in the circuit (i.e. a bad tube), or is it sometimes just inherent to the design?
Or is it the speaker?
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Post by myles on Feb 21, 2006 18:07:22 GMT -7
Hi Myles, In the Mazerati section I have a thread regarding a weird, lower octave woofy overtone that I'm getting with my 1x12 Mazerati combo when I play a B on the low E string. The speaker is an Eminence Tonker. I've been doing some reading on other boards and I have seen the term "ghost note" that seems to describe what I'm getting, and I see that ghost notes can sometimes be attributable to an amp rather than a speaker. Is this phenomenon caused by something wrong in the circuit (i.e. a bad tube), or is it sometimes just inherent to the design? Or is it the speaker? The Mazerati is not really am amp that ever was known for ghost note issues. How old are the output tubes? |
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Post by Buzz Fretwear (Ignatius) on Feb 21, 2006 20:32:28 GMT -7
Hi Myles, In the Mazerati section I have a thread regarding a weird, lower octave woofy overtone that I'm getting with my 1x12 Mazerati combo when I play a B on the low E string. The speaker is an Eminence Tonker. I've been doing some reading on other boards and I have seen the term "ghost note" that seems to describe what I'm getting, and I see that ghost notes can sometimes be attributable to an amp rather than a speaker. Is this phenomenon caused by something wrong in the circuit (i.e. a bad tube), or is it sometimes just inherent to the design? Or is it the speaker? The Mazerati is not really am amp that ever was known for ghost note issues. How old are the output tubes? I bought the amp new in October but it had been in the store for a while, I think. Since then I've probably put maybe 100 hours on it (rough guess). |
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Post by taswegian on Feb 23, 2006 1:28:10 GMT -7
Myles, when you get a chance, I'd love to hear your opinion on getting the Z28 sounding "British" or plexi style. I'm really interested in trying to get it a bit like the baby brother to my Route 66 but a bit smaller venue friendly. I play humbuckers and would run it fairly hard. Everyone makes the fender comparison but a few naughty forumites keep talking me into the "plexi" qualities of the Z28 with buckers.  The Germino Massonette used 6v6's to replicate a Marshall and I loved the sound of that amp. Thanks. |
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King B
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by King B on Feb 23, 2006 9:32:30 GMT -7
Myles;
I have a couple of questions - let me get the difficult one outta the way first. One of the best amp techs in Nashville and I have been attempting to restore my father's Silvertone 1300 that he recorded with back in the medieval period...anyway, no schematic can be found anywhere - one clue - in Aspen's newest incarnation of the TAB, a picture of an Oahu Hawaiin amp shows the amp and cab from the rear - upon magnification, it appears dentical to the Silvertone..but still no maker that I can identify. any ideas, help etc. would be appreciated...I've looked at every website I could find, but none have the 1300 schematics.
Lastly, I would like to know if this scenario is possible: I want to run my Maz 38, and a Swart 5-watter into the same ZBest cab (utilizing a y cable) and use a Lehle 1@3 to switch between the two.....can I plug both amps into one cab and use an amp switch? (Maz and the Swart, 8 ohm into an 8 ohm cab). I can't see why I would need the Cabbone for example, unless there's something I'm unaware of that would be detrimental to either amp....
thanks for any input..
-Brian
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Post by myles on Feb 23, 2006 11:55:46 GMT -7
The Mazerati is not really am amp that ever was known for ghost note issues. How old are the output tubes? I bought the amp new in October but it had been in the store for a while, I think. Since then I've probably put maybe 100 hours on it (rough guess). Your output tubes should be fine. If you have a spare set maybe try them though as there could be something funky in the output set. If you have a spare phase inverter try that too. If this does not help and you are near Los Angeles I would be happy to look at the amp for free. |
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Post by myles on Feb 23, 2006 12:00:20 GMT -7
Myles, when you get a chance, I'd love to hear your opinion on getting the Z28 sounding "British" or plexi style. I'm really interested in trying to get it a bit like the baby brother to my Route 66 but a bit smaller venue friendly. I play humbuckers and would run it fairly hard. Everyone makes the fender comparison but a few naughty forumites keep talking me into the "plexi" qualities of the Z28 with buckers. The Germino Massonette used 6v6's to replicate a Marshall and I loved the sound of that amp. Thanks. The Z-28 has a tone stack that is more in the Fender Brown Tolex era than the Marshall era. What you could try is a good short plate ECC83S in V2 (like a JJ ECC83S) but have the vendor test the tube and tell them you want a transconductance of at least 1800 on the tube (this is 200 over spec and 400-500+ over what one typicall finds) but this is the ticket. Then ... run the tone controls set to at least past 3:00! That is about as agressive as the amp will be. The amp also does not have the same sort of cathode follower tone stack that one finds in a Marshall (or 6545 on the 65 side as a side note) and this is a bit part of how the Marshall type amps play touch wise. As you dig in harder they get brighter. |
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Post by myles on Feb 23, 2006 12:39:32 GMT -7
Myles; I have a couple of questions - let me get the difficult one outta the way first. One of the best amp techs in Nashville and I have been attempting to restore my father's Silvertone 1300 that he recorded with back in the medieval period...anyway, no schematic can be found anywhere - one clue - in Aspen's newest incarnation of the TAB, a picture of an Oahu Hawaiin amp shows the amp and cab from the rear - upon magnification, it appears dentical to the Silvertone..but still no maker that I can identify. any ideas, help etc. would be appreciated...I've looked at every website I could find, but none have the 1300 schematics. Lastly, I would like to know if this scenario is possible: I want to run my Maz 38, and a Swart 5-watter into the same ZBest cab (utilizing a y cable) and use a Lehle 1@3 to switch between the two.....can I plug both amps into one cab and use an amp switch? (Maz and the Swart, 8 ohm into an 8 ohm cab). I can't see why I would need the Cabbone for example, unless there's something I'm unaware of that would be detrimental to either amp.... thanks for any input.. -Brian Brian, I will take this one step at a time .... Silvertone built a lot of amps for many other names. I will look through my own prints and see if I can find a print for you. Email me at GT or GAB in a few days. There are also links to prints on my GAB website that might have the print. The best amp tech in Nashville just may be Todd Sharp at Nashville Amp Repair and he is also one heck of a player! You cannot run two amps into the same cab with a Y cord as the impedance will be all messed up, the output transformers will loose their proper load and will die. You need a proper head switcher to do this such as the Radial Engineering Tone Bone which works great. |
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King B
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by King B on Feb 23, 2006 15:01:31 GMT -7
Thanks yet again myles...I'll send an email from over at your site next week...
karma up..
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Post by skydog on Feb 23, 2006 21:56:18 GMT -7
Thanks for the answer Myles but I think you may not have read my previous post. I'm actually not trying to mod it, I'm trying to fix it. I'm not sure if it's the reverb tub or the send/receive tubes. So, I figured if I knew what the output of the reverb driver should be I could put a scope on the reverb input transducer. Also if I inject a signal into the receive tube ( I expect about 20mV then I can verify the tubes are not the problem. Can you give me an idea of the level expected at the input transducer?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Post by taswegian on Feb 24, 2006 18:08:07 GMT -7
Myles, when you get a chance, I'd love to hear your opinion on getting the Z28 sounding "British" or plexi style. I'm really interested in trying to get it a bit like the baby brother to my Route 66 but a bit smaller venue friendly. I play humbuckers and would run it fairly hard. Everyone makes the fender comparison but a few naughty forumites keep talking me into the "plexi" qualities of the Z28 with buckers. The Germino Massonette used 6v6's to replicate a Marshall and I loved the sound of that amp. Thanks. The Z-28 has a tone stack that is more in the Fender Brown Tolex era than the Marshall era. What you could try is a good short plate ECC83S in V2 (like a JJ ECC83S) but have the vendor test the tube and tell them you want a transconductance of at least 1800 on the tube (this is 200 over spec and 400-500+ over what one typicall finds) but this is the ticket. Then ... run the tone controls set to at least past 3:00! That is about as agressive as the amp will be. The amp also does not have the same sort of cathode follower tone stack that one finds in a Marshall (or 6545 on the 65 side as a side note) and this is a bit part of how the Marshall type amps play touch wise. As you dig in harder they get brighter. That sounds very interesting! Thanks for the reply Myles. By the way, I just ordered a GT 12ax7 MPI for my 66! |
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Post by abradpaisleyfan on Feb 27, 2006 18:47:35 GMT -7
Hey myles hows it going? I was wondering if you could tell me where the tube chart is located at on a vox ac30 cc2x top boost model.
matt
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Post by myles on Feb 28, 2006 9:48:32 GMT -7
Thanks yet again myles...I'll send an email from over at your site next week... karma up.. You are quite welcome. |
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Post by myles on Feb 28, 2006 9:49:20 GMT -7
Thanks for the answer Myles but I think you may not have read my previous post. I'm actually not trying to mod it, I'm trying to fix it. I'm not sure if it's the reverb tub or the send/receive tubes. So, I figured if I knew what the output of the reverb driver should be I could put a scope on the reverb input transducer. Also if I inject a signal into the receive tube ( I expect about 20mV then I can verify the tubes are not the problem. Can you give me an idea of the level expected at the input transducer? Thanks, Jeff Jeff, I have not measured this. I would ask the Doc. |
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Post by myles on Feb 28, 2006 9:50:25 GMT -7
Hey myles hows it going? I was wondering if you could tell me where the tube chart is located at on a vox ac30 cc2x top boost model. matt Matt, I do not know if the Vox Custom Classic has a tube chart inside at all. I would check the Vox website. I do think all the preamp tubes are 12AX7s though if I recall. |
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Post by richeray on Feb 28, 2006 11:27:30 GMT -7
Hi Myles,
I have a rati 2x10 combo, and just bought a Z-Best 2x12 cabinet. The cabinet is 4ohms. Will I be able to run the cabinet out of the 4ohm jack in the back of the amp at the same time as the 10's that are plugged into the 8ohm jack? I'm new to all of this so forgive me if this is a stupid question.
Thanks,
Rich
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Post by abradpaisleyfan on Feb 28, 2006 19:16:12 GMT -7
Hey myles hows it going? I was wondering if you could tell me where the tube chart is located at on a vox ac30 cc2x top boost model.
matt
Matt,
I do not know if the Vox Custom Classic has a tube chart inside at all.
I would check the Vox website.
I do think all the preamp tubes are 12AX7s though if I recall.
thanks much myles I will do so for sure
matt
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Post by myles on Mar 1, 2006 13:47:57 GMT -7
Hi Myles, I have a rati 2x10 combo, and just bought a Z-Best 2x12 cabinet. The cabinet is 4ohms. Will I be able to run the cabinet out of the 4ohm jack in the back of the amp at the same time as the 10's that are plugged into the 8ohm jack? I'm new to all of this so forgive me if this is a stupid question. Thanks, Rich Rich, No ... you cannot run the internal speakers at the same time as a 4 ohm cab. Just unplug the internal speaker plug from the amp and plug the 4 ohm Z-Best cab into the amps 4 ohm speaker jack when you want to use the Z-Best. Now you can rewire the Z-Best cab. If it has two 8 ohm speakers in parallel for 4 ohms you can rewire them in series for 16 ohms. Then you'd plug the Z-Best cab alone into the 16 ohm jack on the amp. You can then rewire the two internal speakers for 16 ohms and then using a "Y" connector, plug both sets of speakers into the "Y" connector and then plug the "Y" connector into the 8 ohm jack on the amp and you can run all the speakers at the same time. |
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Post by myles on Mar 1, 2006 13:52:46 GMT -7
Hey myles hows it going? I was wondering if you could tell me where the tube chart is located at on a vox ac30 cc2x top boost model. matt Matt, I do not know if the Vox Custom Classic has a tube chart inside at all. I would check the Vox website. I do think all the preamp tubes are 12AX7s though if I recall. thanks much myles I will do so for sure matt Matt, I looked .... There are three 12AX7/ECC83 tubes, the quad of output tubes and the rectifier. V1 is the main tone/gain stage tube (most close to the input jack). V2 is not as critical ... reverb etc. Just have a good tube here but it does not have to be pricy ... good as in not noisy. The stock tube is fine. V3 is the phase inverter. |
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Post by richeray on Mar 1, 2006 21:59:59 GMT -7
Thanks Myles!
Richeray
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Post by myles on Mar 2, 2006 11:26:41 GMT -7
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