|
|
Post by DaSkip on Jul 5, 2006 11:35:45 GMT -7
Is there a question here?
V1 and V2 have the most impact and their choices are really personal taste.
Do you want the amp brighter? darker? more headroom?
Look on my website as it gives a lot of info on tube characteristics.
[/quote]
I guess it was a poorly worded question. I found your Tube Primer on your website. I'll try to find what I need there. Thanks for making that info available.
Skip
|
|
|
|
Post by username on Jul 5, 2006 17:13:54 GMT -7
Myles,
are the quad GT EL84S tubes sold on Musician's Friend website properly matched and tested...?
btw:they're the Gold Series GT-EL84-S ..are those the JJ's
thanx sir
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 6, 2006 9:56:13 GMT -7
Myles, are the quad GT EL84S tubes sold on Musician's Friend website properly matched and tested...? btw:they're the Gold Series GT-EL84-S ..are those the JJ's thanx sir If they are gold series then yes, they are dynamically matched. They are indeed the JJ tube. The EL84R is the Sovtek The EL84Y is the Ei The EL84S is the JJ Make sure that if the are selling a quad it is a quad and not two duets with the same rating. The testing system really spans about 200-250 points which is broken into a group of ten points so a #6 as an example can be from say 120-150. Now a duet could be two #133's and that would be a #6. But another set could be two #141s. So two duets really do not make a matched quad or sextet or octet also in the same sort of case. Matched tubes are matched within 1 point or another way of looking at it .... they are the same number exactly under load with signal applied at the same point of distortion. |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 6, 2006 10:01:23 GMT -7
Is there a question here? V1 and V2 have the most impact and their choices are really personal taste. Do you want the amp brighter? darker? more headroom? Look on my website as it gives a lot of info on tube characteristics. I guess it was a poorly worded question. I found your Tube Primer on your website. I'll try to find what I need there. Thanks for making that info available. Skip [/quote] Skip, In a nutshell .... 12AX7C - the most warm and linear 12AX7R (Sovtek 12AX7WA) - the least gainy, darkest, sort of constipated. Very quiet and reliable due to lack of gain. 7025 - brightest of all 12AX7 / ECC83 types. Too bright in some amps with single coils like a tele with a Marshall. The MOST gain of current production runs. 12AX7M - mid range in bright / dark, really nice in Fender black face and silver face amps. My fav in these amps. Great phase inveter. 12AX7R2 (Sovtek12AX7LPS) mid range as M, and also great phase inverter. ECC83S (JJ) strong mid response and typical British flavor. Great current output and gain. 12AX7R3 - good all around tube, brighter and thinner than a 12AX7C but the "thinner" is not a bad aspect at all as it can fix some amps that sound a bit woofy and flubby. Same performance and traces as the new Sovtek Tung Sol. This tube is the Electro Harmonix 12AX7EH. That is a fast guideline. |
|
|
|
Post by DaSkip on Jul 6, 2006 12:52:30 GMT -7
Thank you for the reply Myles. I have been reading your Tube Primer and have learned many things already. I appreciate you taking the time to reply on top of making the Tube Primer available. Skip  |
|
|
|
Post by username on Jul 6, 2006 17:25:40 GMT -7
thanx Myles..
appreciate the info...
very helpful as usual...
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 6, 2006 18:32:58 GMT -7
Both of you folks are welcome.
If you ever need to talk and discuss things over the phone where it is easier to dialogue than email just send me a message from here and I will give you my phone numbers.
Myles
|
|
|
|
Post by Buzz Fretwear (Ignatius) on Jul 6, 2006 19:11:34 GMT -7
Myles - I think I asked this question to Zac a while back and I'd be interested in your take on the answer. What do suggest for dealing with 60 cycle noise? I use Teles with single coil pickups. In some clubs noise isn't an issue but in other venues it's so bad I can almost hear it over the music. I'd prefer to stick with single coil pickups, and the noiseless varieties don't really cut it for me. I'm wondering if there's a solution out there like a power conditioner, etc. I'm not very knowledgeable about that stuff so I'm looking for some good advice. Oh, and to a certain extent budget is an issue (i.e., not sure I can afford some $1000 fancy schmancy power conditioner thingy). Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
|
|
|
|
Post by pjrhd28 on Jul 7, 2006 8:09:41 GMT -7
I'm considering a used Maz 38 that was built in 2002.
Are there any significant differences between 38's built in 2002 and now???
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by billyguitar on Jul 7, 2006 8:15:43 GMT -7
I've got a tube question for Mr. Myles:
I've got a new Stang Ray head and cab and I was wondering what tubes might give me the most bloom or sag. It's a beautiful sounding amp right now I just love that natural compression and I'll take all I can get!
|
|
|
|
Post by RC on Jul 7, 2006 9:06:37 GMT -7
Myles,
I'm thinking about ordering one of the new SRZ-65's the Doc is going to make. The old 50 watt Plexi has always been one of my favorite amps.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the overall volume the Srz is going to have to put out to sound good.
I know you've had a lot of experience with this amp and would like to know how you think it takes an air brake and can it be tamed down to club volumes through a Z-best 2x12. If it needs to be ran at full volume through a Marshall stack to sound good I'd never find venue I could use it in.
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 7, 2006 9:38:33 GMT -7
Myles - I think I asked this question to Zac a while back and I'd be interested in your take on the answer. What do suggest for dealing with 60 cycle noise? I use Teles with single coil pickups. In some clubs noise isn't an issue but in other venues it's so bad I can almost hear it over the music. I'd prefer to stick with single coil pickups, and the noiseless varieties don't really cut it for me. I'm wondering if there's a solution out there like a power conditioner, etc. I'm not very knowledgeable about that stuff so I'm looking for some good advice. Oh, and to a certain extent budget is an issue (i.e., not sure I can afford some $1000 fancy schmancy power conditioner thingy). Thanks in advance for your thoughts. ignatius I don't know what to suggest .... this has been an issue for decades and I just live with the noise. P90s are worse but when you turn them up they sound so good that it becomes something of "oh well ... who cares". |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 7, 2006 9:40:14 GMT -7
I'm considering a used Maz 38 that was built in 2002. Are there any significant differences between 38's built in 2002 and now??? Thanks I would check with the Doc. There are changes that go on over time and in the MAZ Sr there may have been global feedback at one time and now there is none ... if I recall correctly. In any case, there may have been changes but I am not sure what may have changed when. Z is the source of this information. |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 7, 2006 9:41:25 GMT -7
I've got a tube question for Mr. Myles: I've got a new Stang Ray head and cab and I was wondering what tubes might give me the most bloom or sag. It's a beautiful sounding amp right now I just love that natural compression and I'll take all I can get! billyguitar Have your tried a nice 5751 in V2? You might also try a 5V4 rectifier. |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 7, 2006 9:44:05 GMT -7
Myles, I'm thinking about ordering one of the new SRZ-65's the Doc is going to make. The old 50 watt Plexi has always been one of my favorite amps. The only thing I'm concerned about is the overall volume the Srz is going to have to put out to sound good. I know you've had a lot of experience with this amp and would like to know how you think it takes an air brake and can it be tamed down to club volumes through a Z-best 2x12. If it needs to be ran at full volume through a Marshall stack to sound good I'd never find venue I could use it in. Any thoughts will be appreciated. The SRZ-65 can sound pretty amazing at any level. It does not have to be run all dimed as some Marshalls. There are tricks the doc has implemented in the master volume circuit and more tricks in the presence and feedback circuit. The amp works great with the airbrake also but you can get a much larger sound image at lower levels than your typical great JTM-50 or JCM 800. It is an amazing piece of work. |
|
|
|
Post by RC on Jul 7, 2006 10:13:18 GMT -7
Myles, I'm thinking about ordering one of the new SRZ-65's the Doc is going to make. The old 50 watt Plexi has always been one of my favorite amps. The only thing I'm concerned about is the overall volume the Srz is going to have to put out to sound good. I know you've had a lot of experience with this amp and would like to know how you think it takes an air brake and can it be tamed down to club volumes through a Z-best 2x12. If it needs to be ran at full volume through a Marshall stack to sound good I'd never find venue I could use it in. Any thoughts will be appreciated. The SRZ-65 can sound pretty amazing at any level. It does not have to be run all dimed as some Marshalls. There are tricks the doc has implemented in the master volume circuit and more tricks in the presence and feedback circuit. The amp works great with the airbrake also but you can get a much larger sound image at lower levels than your typical great JTM-50 or JCM 800. It is an amazing piece of work. Thanks Myles, that's what I was hopeing to hear. |
|
|
|
Post by billyguitar on Jul 7, 2006 12:33:19 GMT -7
Myles:
Thanks. I only have one 5751 and it started making a heck of a lot of static so I'll put it on my wish list. I've got a 5V4, I'll try it out. I suspected the 5V4 would be a good one to try but I wouldn't have suspected the 5751. Thanks a bunch!
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 8, 2006 9:47:56 GMT -7
Myles: Thanks. I only have one 5751 and it started making a heck of a lot of static so I'll put it on my wish list. I've got a 5V4, I'll try it out. I suspected the 5V4 would be a good one to try but I wouldn't have suspected the 5751. Thanks a bunch! You are more than welcome |
|
|
|
Post by kccheers on Jul 9, 2006 13:17:06 GMT -7
I"ve got a speaker wiring question.
Two 8 ohm speakers can either be wired parallel for 4 ohms or in series for 16. Series wiring doubles impedance of and parallel halves it.
My question is this: Is there any sound reproduction difference between the same speakers when in one cab they would be wired for 4 ohms and the other they would be wired for 16ohms, then plugged into the appropriate ohm tap in the head for an A/B test?
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 10, 2006 9:36:12 GMT -7
I"ve got a speaker wiring question. Two 8 ohm speakers can either be wired parallel for 4 ohms or in series for 16. Series wiring doubles impedance of and parallel halves it. My question is this: Is there any sound reproduction difference between the same speakers when in one cab they would be wired for 4 ohms and the other they would be wired for 16ohms, then plugged into the appropriate ohm tap in the head for an A/B test? There can be slight differences according to some folks. I do not think it matters much personally. |
|
|
|
Post by John on Jul 12, 2006 12:14:08 GMT -7
Myles, I'm trying to bias my Route 66 with a Weber Bias Rite tool. I posted below in the 'general' area also. Can you shed any light?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
What am I missing here:
Plug the tool into a tube socket...
Plug the tube into the top of the tool.
Connect the tool leads to MY OWN meter reading DCV
Plug in a speaker.
Turn on the amp.
The tool instructions at the weber website say:
"If you purchased the Bias Rite head only, set your voltmeter to read the lowest volts range. Then, the meter will read directly in milliamps. For instance, when your meter reads 35 millivolts (.035 volts), it is indicating 35 milliamps of cathode current."
However, my meter's lowest DCV setting is 10. It apparently is not set up for reading millivolts.
Does this sound correct? Do I need a meter that reads millivolts?
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 12, 2006 12:51:48 GMT -7
Myles, I'm trying to bias my Route 66 with a Weber Bias Rite tool. I posted below in the 'general' area also. Can you shed any light? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ What am I missing here: Plug the tool into a tube socket... Plug the tube into the top of the tool. Connect the tool leads to MY OWN meter reading DCV Plug in a speaker. Turn on the amp. The tool instructions at the weber website say: "If you purchased the Bias Rite head only, set your voltmeter to read the lowest volts range. Then, the meter will read directly in milliamps. For instance, when your meter reads 35 millivolts (.035 volts), it is indicating 35 milliamps of cathode current." However, my meter's lowest DCV setting is 10. It apparently is not set up for reading millivolts. Does this sound correct? Do I need a meter that reads millivolts? You need a meter with a 0-200mV DC scale. Radio Shack or any electronics supply store ... maybe even lower than $9.95 |
|
|
|
Post by John on Jul 12, 2006 13:33:51 GMT -7
Radio Shack is down the street. Here goes...
------------------------------------------------------
Radio Shack doesn't carry any.
Went to Sears Hardware. Picked one up for $9.98 (1/2 price)
It has a 0-200mV DC scale.
Fired everything up and measured to 36 millivolts...which according to the Weber website means it's biased to 36 milliamps.
Question. I had to turn the bias pot almost completely clockwise to get the setting to 36. When turned all the way clockwise, I could only get the setting down to 34. This make me wonder if I'm doing something wrong.
Let me ask. With a digital readout on a 0-200mV DC setting... the 200 is just the maximum...I don't have to divide by 2? Don't think so, I cranked it all the way up for a second and it only read 60
Put another way: I don't have to get a readout of 72 (36 x 2)?
|
|
|
|
Post by sultan59 (Tim) on Jul 12, 2006 20:28:13 GMT -7
I have another Stang Ray tube question for Myles.  I need to mellow out the brightness in mine some. And I would also like to get some breakup if possible. Is there a tube combination that would get me closer to Z28 territory? I just got a Z28 and immediately fell in love. Would like to try some things in the Stang before I put it up for sale. |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 13, 2006 10:28:35 GMT -7
Radio Shack is down the street. Here goes... ------------------------------------------------------ Radio Shack doesn't carry any. Went to Sears Hardware. Picked one up for $9.98 (1/2 price) It has a 0-200mV DC scale. Fired everything up and measured to 36 millivolts...which according to the Weber website means it's biased to 36 milliamps. Question. I had to turn the bias pot almost completely clockwise to get the setting to 36. When turned all the way clockwise, I could only get the setting down to 34. This make me wonder if I'm doing something wrong. Let me ask. With a digital readout on a 0-200mV DC setting... the 200 is just the maximum...I don't have to divide by 2? Don't think so, I cranked it all the way up for a second and it only read 60 Put another way: I don't have to get a readout of 72 (36 x 2)? You should not have to divide or anything. I am not sure which tool you have. Just measure one tube. You should have more bias swing than only 2 mA. Take the meter and remove one tube, place the + probe in pin 5 of the output tube socket, and measure the swing on pin 5. Use the DC scale in a high range as you are looking at about -30 to -50 volts or so. Let me know what sort of range you have. Have a speaker plugged in, nothing in the input jack and the amp off standby and ready as to be played. |
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 13, 2006 10:31:04 GMT -7
I have another Stang Ray tube question for Myles. I need to mellow out the brightness in mine some. And I would also like to get some breakup if possible. Is there a tube combination that would get me closer to Z28 territory? I just got a Z28 and immediately fell in love. Would like to try some things in the Stang before I put it up for sale. The Stang Ray is a very different amp than a Z-28. The "Ray" is a Vox in tone and they are brighter than a Fender sort of brown face deluxe era amp as is sort of a Z-28. There is not much that can be done. Maybe try a 5751 in V2 (phase inverter) but that is about all that can be done as it's tone and gain come from the EF86 pentode in V1 and that cannot be changed much. |
|
|
|
Post by sultan59 (Tim) on Jul 13, 2006 19:04:10 GMT -7
Well, that's not too encouraging. I didn't really expect to be able to get it to sound exactly like the Z28, but was hoping the brightness could be tamed a little.
What about the NOS RFT you recommended to the guy with the AC30CC a few pages back? That wouldn't help even a little?
I hate to have to sell this thing already... maybe there's a cap in there that can be changed? I need to email the DR.
|
|
|
|
Post by myles on Jul 14, 2006 7:50:12 GMT -7
Well, that's not too encouraging. I didn't really expect to be able to get it to sound exactly like the Z28, but was hoping the brightness could be tamed a little. What about the NOS RFT you recommended to the guy with the AC30CC a few pages back? That wouldn't help even a little? I hate to have to sell this thing already... maybe there's a cap in there that can be changed? I need to email the DR. The phase inverter will not change the tone. It will change how the output breaks up. But yes ... a simple tone cap change can make the amp a bit darker or much darker. This is fast, easy, and very inexpensive. |
|
|
|
Post by dei305 on Jul 17, 2006 12:30:09 GMT -7
Hey Myles,
I had a chance to meet with Patrick S. at Summer NAMM. I was working at the Curt Mangan String booth. Patrick was trying to hook up with Alex Weeden. I gave Patrick a set of Mangan strings for you.
Many thanks for all you do!
Rick
|
|
|
|
Post by taswegian on Jul 17, 2006 17:55:44 GMT -7
Myles, have the GTKt66hp been discontinued? Is this permanent?
|
|
