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Post by apwwest59 on Jul 23, 2014 13:02:24 GMT -7
Hi all, Can someone please advise if this would be a bad idea, or if you are aware of any alternative. I currently have a telecaster with a 6 saddle bridge (see here: www.fender.com/guitar-bass-parts/bridge-assemblies-components/6-saddle-vintage-syle-telecaster-bridge-assembly-chrome/)The issue I am having is that the screws that adjust the height of the saddles keep coming loose and rattling, or "clacking" down when a string is plucked. I need something that will keep the screws in place without permanently gluing them in. Has anyone used standard Loc-tite (see below) on guitar hardware? Is there anything else out there? I'm a little hesitant to use something advertised for power equipment... (http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-01-24200-Loctite-6-ml-Threadlocker/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406145209&sr=8-2&keywords=lock+tight) Thanks!
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Post by BritInvasion on Jul 23, 2014 13:09:52 GMT -7
It will work , but I use a tiny dab of clear nail polish to lock / prevent rattles on set screws. The nail polish breaks right off when you turn the screws. Just don't overdo it and don't drip any on your guitar.
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Post by digs57 on Jul 23, 2014 13:39:31 GMT -7
Put some wax on them,literally melt the screw in wax then seat...a little messy but reversible....don't glue...
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Post by Ridgeback on Jul 23, 2014 14:17:15 GMT -7
The blue locktite is reversable. Just a dab will do it. The clear nail polish will probably do the trick as well.
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Post by Eddie on Jul 23, 2014 15:56:02 GMT -7
I think I agree with the other tip about nail polish. But I wouldn't do it unless as a last resort.
As a rule you shouldn't need anything like glue. It sounds odd to me that the screws are backing out at all. My absolute final step when setting up bridge saddles is to take the allen wrench and give each height adjustment screw (and all of the intonation screws at the tail of the bridge) a final, very light "snug." I'm talking minimal here. Just enough to make sure the slack is taken up on the intonation screws and that each saddle height adjustment screw is touching the baseplate. Again, I do this after the guitar is set up and at pitch. I do this to prevent what you're talking about. It is possible to have only one of the screws between the two on each saddle holding up that saddle with the other one just off the baseplate. The one not doing any real work will rattle.
Once each screw is sharing about 50% of the job of holding that bridge up against the countering downward pull of the tuned string, they should not move. I believe you that yours are, but it's weird.
Like you, I hate odd rattles and noises. For example,I keep a pick wedged across my bass strings above the headstock on my acoustic because I can hear the sypathetic rattling of that 4" length of string, and it clashes with my playing. But, if I wasn't 100% positive that I didn't have one screw just up slightly and therefore only one screw was holding up the saddle, and then I put a bit of locktite or nail polish on there, I would have solved the rattle issue, but it would always be in the back of my mind that maybe that screw was "floating" above the baseplate. That will mean inferior tone transfer - and that would bother me on some deep subconscious level! :-) I am a little off that way! haha.
Good luck and please let us know what you come up with to solve it. Eddie
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Post by apwwest59 on Jul 23, 2014 16:19:26 GMT -7
Eddie, What you are describing is related to the problem. In order to fix the rattle, I can give the offending screw a slight turn tightening it down and the rattling stops. The problem is, this only fixes it for a little while. After a few days of playing, the rattling starts again. I didn't know this would be a problem with a 6 saddle bridge or I wouldn't have gotten one. I think the design just isn't the best. By nature of the fact that there is only 1 string per saddle, it is necessary that the string sit either to the right or left of center. See photo below (I tried to embed it, not sure if it is going to work...) Because of this design it is very difficult to get the pressure at anything like 50/50 since the strings sit nearly directly over the top screw. The screws with less pressure are the ones more prone to vibrating loose. I stumbled across a low strength purple loctite - thinking about giving that a try.
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Post by apwwest59 on Jul 23, 2014 16:23:26 GMT -7
2nd attempt at picture...
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Post by Eddie on Jul 23, 2014 17:06:27 GMT -7
Good pic - I see what you are up against. I'm with you, that design isn't my favorite either, although there are a few designs that are worse, imo. Well... maybe the glue is the best thing after all!
Good luck, Eddie
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Post by BritInvasion on Jul 23, 2014 18:09:37 GMT -7
I should add that with the nail polish , I apply it with a pointy toothpick. Just the smallest amount around the screw heads has worked for me FWIW.
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Post by zpilot on Jul 23, 2014 18:12:38 GMT -7
That bridge design has always been a problem. Two issues here.
First, if you use a threadlocker it needs to be one that wicks into the threads AFTER the adjustments are made instead of being applied to the threads and then assembled. You need something like 'Permatex Penetrating Grade' or 'Loctite #290'.
Second, that screw is really loosening up because there is not enough downforce on it. The string slot is off-center putting the force mainly on the other screw. The fix is to rotate the saddle to where the string is over the intonation screw. You will have to back out the problem screw to do that. Then the height adjustment screws will be at a slight angle and you will need to adjust them to have the same tension. It will be a lot more stable then and your tone and sustain might improve a little also.
Another problem with that bridge is that the string bends around the intonation screw and tends to push it to one side. As you get things adjusted you will need to slide the bridge pieces from side to side to get everything to settle in. Again, it's not my favorite design. The 3-piece designs with compensated saddles are much better and the intonation is accurate enough for the real world.
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Post by apwwest59 on Jul 23, 2014 18:59:02 GMT -7
I'm not sure I follow what you mean here... Do you mean to disassemble the problematic saddle, flip the saddle part "upside down" and re-assemble it so that (in reference to the picture I posted), the string slot is above the screw holding the saddle in? Basically the string wraps around the "wrong" side and comes over?
I was considering converting to a 3 saddle bridge, but unfortunately the screw holes are in the wrong place to just replace the 6 saddles with 3... Would have to replace the whole bridge.
Thanks for the responses!
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Post by zpilot on Jul 23, 2014 20:36:19 GMT -7
Looking from the tail-end of the guitar, unscrew the problem screw about one turn and the saddle will start to rotate clock-wise. Continue to rotate it until the pressure is about the same on both screws. Then reset the height by using both screws equally. Is that clearer.
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Post by bluzman on Jul 23, 2014 21:22:46 GMT -7
Callaham or Glendale would be my fixes...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2014 22:58:35 GMT -7
^^^ Like
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Post by zpilot on Jul 25, 2014 2:09:18 GMT -7
I would prefer replacing that bridge also, but some owners of vintage guitars don't want to alter them. This fix works but it is a hassle. I learned to do this before better designed replacements were available. It doesn't cost anything to do this adjustment and sometimes that is also an issue.
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Post by The Bad Poodle Experience on Jul 25, 2014 13:46:55 GMT -7
I'd replace the bridge and keep the current one for the guy you're going to sell it to in the future who wants the crappy vintage hardware.
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Post by apwwest59 on Jul 25, 2014 14:47:26 GMT -7
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