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Post by propellr on May 21, 2007 12:10:39 GMT -7
If I were to change out my .10s for .11s, would I need to have it setup again? My physics tells me that it might raise the action or add stress to the neck, but how much, and would I notice. I'm sure some might say I wouldn't know the difference until the neck snapped clean off, but I wanted to put it out there anyway. What do you think? I think my Reverend may have shipped with .9s and I put .10s on it. It seems to be doing fine. So what's up? Rules of thumb? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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Post by billyguitar on May 21, 2007 13:38:58 GMT -7
Be sure to put some graphite or lube in the nut grooves. It depends on the guitar whether or not you'll need to tighten the truss rod a bit. Press down the low E string at the first fret. Then with your right hand little finger press the low E down at the 14th fret. Then take your right hand thumb and press the low E down and release at about the 9th or 10th fret. This will show you how much relief you have If the distance between the string and fret is more than the thickness of your high E string you might want to turn the truss rod 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Your question made me think you might not know how to do this. If you do already, nevermind!
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Post by guitarstan on May 21, 2007 13:39:04 GMT -7
There is a good change you can get away without changing anything unless you are picky or ana*retentive like me. I check action, neck relief and intonation every string change even if I use the "same" gage and type of string. Hell I even check the intonation when I get just a little bored, ya never know what effect stray neutrinos, lost space particles, loose electrons, changes in temperature and humidity might have on your instrument. Besides when you get old and decrepit like me your activities become somewhat limited, a little intonation check now and then is an easy thing to do and makes one feel accomplished and somewhat useful again ;D.
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Post by propellr on May 22, 2007 5:03:14 GMT -7
Be sure to put some graphite or lube in the nut grooves. It depends on the guitar whether or not you'll need to tighten the truss rod a bit. Press down the low E string at the first fret. Then with your right hand little finger press the low E down at the 14th fret. Then take your right hand thumb and press the low E down and release at about the 9th or 10th fret. This will show you how much relief you have If the distance between the string and fret is more than the thickness of your high E string you might want to turn the truss rod 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Your question made me think you might not know how to do this. If you do already, nevermind! No, you're right. I leave this up to the professionals. You won't catch me under the hood of my car, either. except to change the oil or fill the washer fluid or antifreeze. I really shouls get a beater guitar to learn this stuff on... Soldering new pickups, truss rod adjustments, refins, really get my fingers dirty. I would love to learn how to dress frets, even change out fret wire.
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Post by propellr on May 23, 2007 12:01:40 GMT -7
There is a good change you can get away without changing anything unless you are picky or ana*retentive like me. I check action, neck relief and intonation every string change even if I use the "same" gage and type of string. Hell I even check the intonation when I get just a little bored, ya never know what effect stray neutrinos, lost space particles, loose electrons, changes in temperature and humidity might have on your instrument. Besides when you get old and decrepit like me your activities become somewhat limited, a little intonation check now and then is an easy thing to do and makes one feel accomplished and somewhat useful again ;D. I would love to feel accomplished and useful. Maybe checking intonation is for me!
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Post by bluzman on Jun 7, 2007 17:36:11 GMT -7
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Post by mooretonerocks on Jun 7, 2007 20:38:51 GMT -7
Great post. Where does one learn these things? Is there a good DVD or book with pictures? Sorry guys, i have never had lessons and can't stand the stores.
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Post by GuitarZ on Jun 9, 2007 5:36:29 GMT -7
I've always messed with my action, intonation, and such, but I was always afraid of the truss rod. So, I would go to a professional every now and then to get a good set up for my Les Paul. When I got my Strat, the Fender manual that came along with the guitar provided set-up instructions that made it sound pretty easy. So, I pretty much take care of my Strat these days. Here's a link to the manuals: www.fender.com/support/setup_guides.phpI'm still afraid of my Les Paul's truss rod. It doesn't make any sense. It's not that hard.
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Post by bluzman on Jun 9, 2007 6:50:37 GMT -7
Learn by doing! A truss rod isn't a nuclear rod... It's very easy stuff to do. I think that everybody that owns a few guitars NEEDS to know how to do a setup. I can do my Gibsons and Ibanez in 20 minutes or so. Fenders with the truss rods near the neck pickup take longer.
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Post by mooretonerocks on Jun 9, 2007 7:16:50 GMT -7
GuitarZ, thanks for the info. Bluzman, thanks for the kick in the pants. I do need to just dive in.
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Post by bluzman on Jun 9, 2007 16:25:05 GMT -7
If you need any assistance setting up a floating tremelo or general questions feel free to ax...
I forced myself to learn after I reached 20 or so guitars... PAYING for maintenance would have forced me to sell!!
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dave
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by dave on Jun 10, 2007 3:11:15 GMT -7
Learn by doing! A truss rod isn't a nuclear rod... It's very easy stuff to do. I think that everybody that owns a few guitars NEEDS to know how to do a setup. I can do my Gibsons and Ibanez in 20 minutes or so. Fenders with the truss rods near the neck pickup take longer. Exactly right. The only thing I'd add is adjust by small amounts at a time (1/8 turn max) and WAIT... leave the neck for a few hours hrs to settle to the new tension, it will take time for the neck to fully respond. The pro's know just how far to take it - the rest of us sometimes find an over-adjusted neck the next day!
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