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Post by Mitch on Feb 17, 2007 15:29:36 GMT -7
Hey all, I see tons o' pics of boards using George L's cable. Just got me some and the 1st one I'm trying to make does not work. I followed the included instructions to a tee, but no-go. So, what's the secret ? Is there a magic word I'm supposed to know. This sounded like such a no-brainer ?
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Feb 17, 2007 15:41:59 GMT -7
It's not as obvious as it should be. I always spend a bit of time making sure none of the shield wires are bent in toward the center before I shove it down in the hole. Then I give a few twists to make sure the needle down in there gets good and seated in the middle of the wire. The other piece of the puzzle is the lock screw or T-cap on the right angle plugs has to bite through the insulation to make contact with the shield wire there. If you're too polite with them you might not get through the insulation.
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Post by billyguitar on Feb 17, 2007 16:02:53 GMT -7
The only secret I know is to be sure you've got a clean square cut before you start.
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Post by tjstrat on Feb 17, 2007 16:40:45 GMT -7
I use a good pair of Ideal T strippers (although any good quality wire stripper with a cutting blade should do... I just happen to work for Ideal), get a straight clean cut, make sure the cable is as close to perfectly circular (the cut, obviously, tends to flatten them a little) before I insert it. I push it in firmly, twisting the cable slightly to make sure there's contact, bend the cable at a 90 degree angle, and torque the top down. There's a little zen to it... don't push too hard, don't twist to much, but do both. You should get a good connection about 90% of the time.
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Post by Mitch on Feb 17, 2007 17:06:49 GMT -7
Thanks guys !
The secret word is TWIST ! (a square cut is a must also). After pushing the squarely cut cable into the RA plug, a firm PUSH, then 2 full twists, screw the cap on (twice). And in 30 minutes I've made 8 cables.
Thanks again. ;D
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Post by tjstrat on Feb 17, 2007 17:15:23 GMT -7
YEAH Mitch!
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Post by DaSkip on Feb 17, 2007 17:27:52 GMT -7
You can add a drop of thread lock as you build them. It keeps the cap locked on, but still can be removed.
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Post by Mitch on Feb 17, 2007 17:35:50 GMT -7
Ah, the gems of wisdom on this board ! ;D Speakin' of GAS from another thread, it's all beej's fault I had this recent bout I think... Bought his MAZ 18 2x10 NR and I'm thinkin' "A new great amp, deserves some new great pedals !" So voila ! Within 3 days, my old pedal board was stripped apart, all on eBAY, and only 3K later, I think this round of GAS is about over. * sigh *
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Post by jzguitar on Feb 17, 2007 20:43:32 GMT -7
Another cool trick I discovered was using one of those rubber grip things that you use to open jars. I use it to hold the plug while I screw the cap on.
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Post by Mitch on Feb 17, 2007 21:03:51 GMT -7
Now THAT tip I could have used 4 hours ago... tore the life outta my right thumb building these things.
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Post by kruzty on Feb 18, 2007 6:46:27 GMT -7
Someone mentioned bending the cable 90 degrees before screwing the cap on. The directions state NOT to do that. Bend it just enough to get the threads started. That way the end of the cap will cut into the cable enough to make a good connection.
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Post by loosestring on Feb 18, 2007 7:32:55 GMT -7
I bought Geo L's cable tester for $20 and the snips for $7-8. The cut was perfect every time. My older electrical cutters laying in the shop have gotten dull, good only for crunching stnd wire.
Tester tests the cable 3 ways (grnd to grnd, tip to tip, and tip to grnd) to look for mistakes. My usual mistake was not screwing enough.... It is a tad hard to finger tighten.
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Post by tjstrat on Feb 18, 2007 12:55:11 GMT -7
Someone mentioned bending the cable 90 degrees before screwing the cap on. The directions state NOT to do that. Bend it just enough to get the threads started. That way the end of the cap will cut into the cable enough to make a good connection. Hm. I never read the directions that closely, I guess. I actually do 90 degrees or more, doubling the cable almost over so I can keep it tightly in place with my thumb while I screw the cap down with my free hand. Works most of the time with me, but mine may be an unusual case. When in doubt, follow the directions, of course.
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Post by tjstrat on Feb 18, 2007 12:56:41 GMT -7
I My usual mistake was not screwing enough.... Amen... Seriously, I find myself using pliers to really torque the caps down.
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Post by beej on Feb 19, 2007 15:42:11 GMT -7
Ah, the gems of wisdom on this board ! ;D Speakin' of GAS from another thread, it's all beej's fault I had this recent bout I think... Bought his MAZ 18 2x10 NR and I'm thinkin' "A new great amp, deserves some new great pedals !" So voila ! Within 3 days, my old pedal board was stripped apart, all on eBAY, and only 3K later, I think this round of GAS is about over. * sigh * I'll take the blame for that! ;D ;D Of course it's now thrown me into my own bout of GAS ... just grabbed a Maz Jr head to replace the combo (needed separates) ... and re-examing my pedal board as well ... no doubt it's contagious ;D ;D
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Post by beej on Feb 19, 2007 15:44:22 GMT -7
btw, +1 on the George Ls ...
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Post by Lefty on Feb 19, 2007 18:32:01 GMT -7
You can add a drop of thread lock as you build them. It keeps the cap locked on, but still can be removed. This is what I use and if you have kids, you have plenty of it around the house.
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