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Post by donovantyler on Aug 4, 2020 13:16:38 GMT -7
. I have a 2017 remedy which has the master volume and tone stack bypass. I've really never gotten to play this amp that much as it's kind of louder than a lot of my playing situations. A few times I did play it in front of an audience and it was glorious :-) I did with it a fair amount until about a year ago. I don't think the tubes have ever been changed. We moved and I've played it in my practice room but today it just doesn't seem that loud? The tone is there, it sounds fine. If I put it in 40 watt mode and put the volume past noon it gets very loud but in 20 watt mode I have to put the volume past noon to get it to sound full just for my personal practice. I'm wondering if it's my imagination or if the output has dropped some? All the tubes are glowing. I'm hoping that it's something like simply putting in New tubes? Does anybody here have any experience with this situation with their remedy? Thanks all!
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Post by Jaguarguy (Mike) on Aug 4, 2020 13:46:56 GMT -7
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 4, 2020 15:11:22 GMT -7
Thanks Jaguarguy! I read the FAQ and I watch the video about blown fuses and how to troubleshoot a bad tube. My app works. I just played through it and it sounded awesome but I just think it doesn't sound the way you used to and doesn't have the volume the punch. For example on my remedy I had the high and the low knobs crank all the way to the right and it just didn't sound like a cranked plexi like it used to. It sounded more driven but it did not knock my socks off. guess I need to really look inside my app and see if any of the tubes are arcing. If I don't see anything weird about the color or the brightness of tubes. These tubes are about three years old. The original set. I don't have a heck of a lot of time on this amp. I have played it in the past but definitely not every day ..hundreds of hours Etc. Would you just recommend I get a whole new set? A new set of all four power tubes and all the preamp tubes? Thanks for your advice sir!
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Post by headshrinker (Marc) on Aug 4, 2020 15:22:32 GMT -7
I agree it sounds like tubes. I would start with changing out the power tubes and the phase inverter. Actually I would start with the 12AX7 phase inverter (the one closest to the power tubes) then go to the power tubes. Likely it won't make a difference, but I would also try swapping the the inside two power tubes to the outside and the outside to the inside, just to see if that changed things. If you haven't played it in a while, it may be a good idea to spray the tubes with something like deoxit and then reinsert them. If you don't have any, just taking them out and putting them back in may help. They may have built up some oxidation. I wouldn't change out the other two 12AX7s if the amp sounds good. I would take them out and reinsert them. If you have the deoxit, I would put some on a 1/4 inch plug and insert and remove it a couple of times in each input and output jack. Again, if you don't have it, just use a dry plug.
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 4, 2020 15:24:54 GMT -7
Thanks a lot headshrinker! I'm going to get right on this. Can you recommend a brand of tube? I know some people say it doesn't make a difference and other safe and make a heck of a lot of difference. JJ's are easy to get ahold of. Any recommendations sir?
I forgot how great this amp sounds! Everything from blackface to like Bassman tone ..to Plexi Sound crazy but I love the spectrum of cleans I get out of it
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Post by Jaguarguy (Mike) on Aug 4, 2020 15:40:05 GMT -7
Here's Doc's recommendations - he has a pretty good ear.
V1: JJ ECC83S, V2: JJ ECC83S, V3: Tung Sol 12AX7, V4-7: JJ 6V6 (matched quad)
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Post by daddyelmis (Greg) on Aug 4, 2020 15:40:22 GMT -7
Here’s what the Doc specifies for the Remedy. With 3 Dr Z’s my personal experience is to use what Doc specs, that way the amp always sounds “as God intended.”
Remedy V1: JJ ECC83S, V2: JJ ECC83S, V3: Tung Sol 12AX7, V4-7: JJ 6V6 (matched quad)
Recommended Bias Point: Cathode Biased (no re-biasing necessary)
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Post by T-R☼CK ♫ on Aug 5, 2020 9:38:08 GMT -7
You said you moved... Is your music room larger/smaller, more - fewer reflective - absorbent surfaces, etc.?
See I'm sayin'?
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 5, 2020 9:55:21 GMT -7
Probably smaller and it's carpeted and it's enclosed. Old music room was jalousie windows that were open all the time hardwood floors and much larger
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 5, 2020 9:55:45 GMT -7
I ordered a new tube set last night. Exactly as specified here :-)
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 6, 2020 10:21:45 GMT -7
Well head-shrinker I thought I would try your suggestion of rotating the tubes. I have new ones in inbound. And the rightmost one is the hardest to reach so I was doing it by feel and that Center plastic pin broke off inside the socket. I botched this up! I guess I need to find an amp Tech nearby?
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Post by headshrinker (Marc) on Aug 6, 2020 11:02:32 GMT -7
Not really. If you feel comfortable pulling the chassis. All you have to do is remove the four bolts and slide it out. Then you can simply push it through with a pointed object like a pencil and it will push through. If it broke off so you can tell how it was attached, I have superglued them back on and been able to use the tube. Probably not the best of ideas, but it works as long as the tube is not damaged. It's just there with that little key part so you can only put the tube in one way. Also, there are lethal voltages inside an amp. Be sure not to get any fingers in there if you aren't sure what you are doing. Hence using something nonconductive to push the pin through. Again, not the best of ideas, but you could just push it through and let it rattle around in there. Since it is plastic it likely wouldn't hurt anything. The operative word is likely. Those more knowledgeable about amp innards may chime in.
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 6, 2020 11:21:52 GMT -7
Thanks head-shrinker. So it's the four bolts on the bottom of the amp and the chassis will slide forward ? Just those four? Once I slide the chassis out I should be able to poke that piece of plastic through with a non-conductive poker object. Ballpoint pen?
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Post by headshrinker (Marc) on Aug 6, 2020 11:52:37 GMT -7
That's it. Four bolts on the bottom. It actually slides out the back not forward. You can likely just pull it out far enough that the tube socket is hanging over the edge and then poke it. You shouldn't have to even take it out all the way. A ball point pen should work. If this is your first time doing it, I would suggest hanging the chassis a bit over the edge of a table, then working the two exposed bolts from the bottom. Then hang the other side over and do the same. That way you don't have to be flipping the now disconnected amp cab and chassis to slide it. When you slide it back in, you may have to lift it a hair to make it slide. There is a piece of shielding foil stapled to the cab that it can get hung up on. Remember, don't sneak any fingers under the chassis when you are sliding it back in. Let us know if it works.
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Post by headshrinker (Marc) on Aug 6, 2020 12:16:41 GMT -7
Another tip. Look at the tube socket from the bottom when you slide it out to make sure that when you push it, it will come out without hitting anything. There are a couple of resisters soldered to the pins underneath. They are usually clear of the hole, but it doesn't hurt to check. If there is something in the way, put your pusher between them and push it back up through the top. If you do that, don't hold the chassis with the other hand, just in case. General advice is put the hand you aren't using in your pocket, so you don't touch it by accident. You're not working where there is any big problem, but it's best to be cautious.
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 6, 2020 12:19:33 GMT -7
Okay. I think I'm getting this. I shouldn't put my other hand on top pushing back down so that I'm not stressing the socket when pushing up?
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Post by headshrinker (Marc) on Aug 6, 2020 12:54:48 GMT -7
It's not to protect the socket, it's to protect you. If one of your hands hits something that has electricity in it ( not likely with what you are doing) and the other hand is touching the chassis metal it makes a circuit and the electricity then runs through you. At least that's how I understand it. The socket is secured well in there and pushing the piece up or down shouldn't be a problem. If you have some deoxit, spray a bit on the piece to work as a sort of lubricant. If you don't have it, don't worry about it. Likely you will be able to push it down and not have to worry about it.
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 13, 2020 7:32:36 GMT -7
So the remedy just spent a little time with a really awesome amplifier technician in Durham here. Russ at Bull City sound - in case any of you need any of his services... Apparently power tube number 3 blew and it took out some resistors that were connected to the socket , so that's why I noticed a drop in volume and a drop in tone. He says it now sounds great now. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. $78 out the door! :-)
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Post by purpletele on Aug 13, 2020 9:02:26 GMT -7
That’s great news and a heck of a bargain!
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 13, 2020 9:45:34 GMT -7
Yeah it's nice to meet skilled people that charge decent rates still these days. I gave him a set of all brand new tubes put in it so I'm expecting Z remedy Glory!l.. It's such an awesome amp!
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Post by ME on Aug 13, 2020 10:07:21 GMT -7
My Remedy was getting a little noisy at idle so I followed the Dr.’s instructions on annual service and things are much quieter, until I play a note! 😎 2016 MV model with stock tubes. It gets played fairly regularly, though only at home recently. Full power, MV at 1 to 2 o’clock, BrakeLite on (3 most of the time) into a 1X12 Celestion Creamback G12M-65, 16 ohm. I find it hard to beat the tones I get. I have a selection of pedals which enhance the fun factor, but aren’t really necessary... ME
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 13, 2020 11:28:57 GMT -7
Cool you get to play it kind loud. With those levels, Where are your low and high knobs set usually? You go for a very crunchy tone or do you keep it kind of clean?
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Post by ME on Aug 13, 2020 11:45:21 GMT -7
I play with the volumes and tone controls constantly. I’d say, generally, I have the volumes between 12 and 3 o’clock, though 9ish is where they sometimes end up. Depends on how I want the pedals to react. The biggest issue I have is the need to constantly adjust the settings on the delay pedal as it reacts very differently to the clean, high headroom, setting and needs to be dialed back. It then gets lost and needs to be turned up some when the preamp gets to working. ME
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Post by donovantyler on Aug 15, 2020 14:27:27 GMT -7
Michael I got it back! The amp Tech replace the power tubes with the new ones but he didn't replace the preamp tubes with new preamp tubes I provided because he said the preamp tubes are fine:-) It's like I'm rediscovering this amp really for the first time now. I hate to admit this ... I feel like a dumbass but I never realized that the master volume really is that LOL. If I want clean tones, open up the master! I keep the master now between 2 and 4 o'clock and I just turn up the high and normal volumes to suit how much gain I want. OMG! I have this amp connected to a 2 x 12 with Neo creambacks running at 16 ohms. I swear I had the most delicious Deluxe Reverb or super Reverb tones ...but better, coming out of this today! It loves my OCD and ews little brute drive petals as well. I defy anyone to a b me with their favorite Fender amp! And of course if I turn up the normal or the high levels I can get as much overdrive as I want. To think there was a time when I wanted to sell this amp because I thought it was just too loud and too much gain? ...i'm sure glad I didn't sell it :-) so many possibilities with this! I will not hesitate now to take you to a gig where I need clean and pretty :-)
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Post by doctorice on Aug 15, 2020 15:04:50 GMT -7
Glad you got that sorted out. Your tech was an absolute bargain. Well worth the peace of mind from having a professional do the work.
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