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Post by scottunzicker on Oct 30, 2019 10:46:18 GMT -7
Any of you fine folks ever tried a Weber beam blocker on either a Z-Lux or any other amp? What's your opinion on its efficacy for redirecting high frequencies, or its overall effect on tone?
Thanks, and hope everyone is well.
Scott
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Post by Chilly Gibbons (Todd T.) on Oct 30, 2019 11:55:40 GMT -7
I use them on a 4x12 with Celestion Vintage 30s, and a combo I built that also has a V30 in it. They do take the edge off the highs, but make sure they’re securely mounted or they will rattle at high volumes. I wouldn’t bother using one on a ZLux though. They are perfect as-is with the Z12 speaker. But, with a bright amp and a V30 they work as advertised, for me anyway.
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Post by Mark (Basement Enthusiast) on Oct 30, 2019 13:34:28 GMT -7
It seems to me that there's the "beam blocker" method, and then there's the "foam-circle" method (sorry, you might have to google it or search TGP forums for it). Ironically, they're the complete opposite of each other physically--one blocks the center of the cone, the other covers the outer edges--but yet they're supposed to accomplish exactly the same thing. I hate to derail your thread, but I'd suppose you might want to look at both options and/or compare them.
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Post by bgkyt1 on Oct 30, 2019 14:12:04 GMT -7
i had a piece of fabric with velcro that i stuck to the grill cloth that worked for me, when i played a place where the cab was pointed at my head.
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Post by John on Oct 31, 2019 2:42:20 GMT -7
I've used beam blockers over the years. Yes, they work, especially for live gigs in smaller clubs. It makes it so that beam isn't pointing at a particular person in the audience...or at the sound board! They're not any help in a studio.
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Post by jbrad on Nov 1, 2019 10:40:45 GMT -7
A trick some of the Nashville players use is a board to put in front of your amp/cabinet that is plain or covered with tolex on one side and carpet on the other side with a couple of spring clamps for legs. You can put whichever side you need in front of speaker according to the acoustics of the room and crank up the amp without having a sound guy down on your butt. The hard side will accentuate highs in a muddy room or the carpet side will take spiky highs. Ricky Lynn Gregg does this and can get a killer tone out of about any amp, cheap or expensive. I saw Gene Watson a few weeks back and his guitar player was doing the same thing and had great time. It's light weight and very portable.
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Post by John on Nov 2, 2019 4:15:21 GMT -7
In addition to (or rather instead of) beam blockers, I too have used an amp shield. I made my own tri folding amp shield. I thought it was fantastic. The sound seems to bounce off the shield and up to your ears. You don't have to worry about the sound guy, you don't have to worry about certain members of the audience being blasted with the beam. And yes, I could run the amp louder. Mine was a hard surface. I could see people experimenting with covering their amp shields with deadening and deflecting materials. (shag carpeting from the 70's?) Yes, it does keep the bulk of your sound from getting out into the audience, but if it's a gig with a sizeable PA, then you'll be fine. Just fold it, and it fits well in the car.
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Post by Seńor Verde on Nov 2, 2019 20:59:31 GMT -7
I have Beam Blockers in all my cabinets, which are all 1x12. I'm 6'5" and sometimes need to stand very close to my amp, so the Beam Blocker helps diffuse the highs so I can hear them. I've never had anyone complain my highs are harsh, even using a Vintage 30 with my Therapy.
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Post by swampcooler on Nov 5, 2019 7:42:13 GMT -7
I've used weber beam blockers on 12's and 10's. They do exactly what they say they'll do, mine did not rattle. The first time you use them is a little like going from a closed back cabinet to an open back - your sound seems to be coming from more places rather than just one focal point. The beam blockers alter that focused beam of sound, they spread it about, and you can hear this as you move around and across the front of your speaker cabinet. In some spots it can seem a bit 3D.
In the end I took them out, don't need them. I try to tilt my speaker cabinet up so the sound hits me in the kidneys. No more kidney stones, and the sound carries through the club nicely.
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Post by Buzz Fretwear (Ignatius) on Nov 5, 2019 11:14:11 GMT -7
A trick some of the Nashville players use is a board to put in front of your amp/cabinet that is plain or covered with tolex on one side and carpet on the other side with a couple of spring clamps for legs. You can put whichever side you need in front of speaker according to the acoustics of the room and crank up the amp without having a sound guy down on your butt. The hard side will accentuate highs in a muddy room or the carpet side will take spiky highs. Ricky Lynn Gregg does this and can get a killer tone out of about any amp, cheap or expensive. I saw Gene Watson a few weeks back and his guitar player was doing the same thing and had great time. It's light weight and very portable. Got any pics of that setup? That’s an intriguing idea!
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Post by jbrad on Nov 5, 2019 11:33:26 GMT -7
I don't have any pics but Ricky Lynn Gregg has used it for years. Might find something online.
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Post by perryr on Nov 6, 2019 0:25:38 GMT -7
I made this, works great when I use it. I bought 2 12”x18” .25” plexi from www.professionalplastics.com about $30 with shipping. Bought the hinge off reverb reverb.com/item/2082017-clearsonic-old-style-panel-hingefor transport it fits in the back of my amp, amp cover slips over and holds in place just fine. When positioning I might collapse it some, place off center, move it out, move it close, and walk out front to find the sweet spot depending if I’m mic’d up or not. Outdoors the only issue is wind, might knock it down.
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Post by Chilly Gibbons (Todd T.) on Nov 6, 2019 2:29:08 GMT -7
Very cool, and easily adjustable for whatever the room brings.
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Post by premiumplus (Dave) on Nov 10, 2019 14:43:40 GMT -7
I was going to build one, but when I went to check out, the shipping was almost $30. The plexiglas was $27. I'm going to try to source it locally, I'd really like to try one out.
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Post by perryr on Nov 10, 2019 15:16:01 GMT -7
I was going to build one, but when I went to check out, the shipping was almost $30. The plexiglas was $27. I'm going to try to source it locally, I'd really like to try one out. Bummer, sorry for the misinformation. I just checked myself and looks like the price has doubled. My order was from over 2yrs ago and it was $7 per 12x18” piece. I bought 4 pieces plus some Novus #1 Plastic Cleaner (Use it to clean my guitars) to make the $30 min. Shipping was $19.
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Post by premiumplus (Dave) on Nov 10, 2019 16:08:31 GMT -7
I was going to build one, but when I went to check out, the shipping was almost $30. The plexiglas was $27. I'm going to try to source it locally, I'd really like to try one out. Bummer, sorry for the misinformation. I just checked myself and looks like the price has doubled. My order was from over 2yrs ago and it was $7 per 12x18” piece. I bought 4 pieces plus some Novus #1 Plastic Cleaner (Use it to clean my guitars) to make the $30 min. Shipping was $19. No prob, it's good info anyway. Amazing how prices jump so fast, huh? Thanks, Perry. Your tubes are still a bargain, and that's a great thing!
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Post by Rhythmark on Nov 11, 2019 8:18:38 GMT -7
For plexi glass just go to your home store. Or a glass shop, Plexi isnt too expensive just local.
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Post by John on Nov 11, 2019 9:58:44 GMT -7
I was going to build one, but when I went to check out, the shipping was almost $30. The plexiglas was $27. I'm going to try to source it locally, I'd really like to try one out.
Two words:
Home Depot
They'll have sheets of plexiglass. Different sizes and different thicknesses. Pick the ones that will fit your situation the best. Go buy two hinges and a packet of bolts/nuts to go with them. I don't remember cutting any of the plexi sheets.
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Post by daddyelmis (Greg) on Nov 11, 2019 14:33:33 GMT -7
Any advice on drilling the holes for the hinges? I’ve never drilled plexiglass.
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Post by Rhythmark on Nov 12, 2019 16:24:58 GMT -7
Any advice on drilling the holes for the hinges? I’ve never drilled plexiglass. Let the drill do the work. Dont push too hard.
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Post by dcarver on Nov 12, 2019 21:58:41 GMT -7
Any advice on drilling the holes for the hinges? I’ve never drilled plexiglass. There's definitely a right way and a wrong way. Wrong way: Using a high speed twist bit for steel ... at a high speed. On thicker material, the bit will grab and the drill motor will kick back. On thinner material, it will make a sloppy hole. Brittle plastic will shatter. Right way: get a bit designed for drilling plastic, and try it a few times on some scrap to get the hang of it. You can drill holes in plastic with a high speed steel bit, but there's a knack to it. Basically it's NO pressure and SLOW speed. Check out this video for a demo:
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Dec 2, 2019 21:15:57 GMT -7
I had beam blockers on my amp, and I loved it. I could hear the guitar everywhere on the stage! The band hated them. They could hear the guitar everywhere on the stage! In the end I took them off.
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Post by daddyelmis (Greg) on Dec 7, 2019 15:20:07 GMT -7
So I bought an amp shield from amazon after pricing plexiglass and hardware to do it myself. Mistake. The amazon shield was about $20 or so more than the all-in DIY, so I figured my time was worth that. Well, the Amazon shield doesn’t come assembled, used these plastic long hinges that you, somehow, jam onto the sides of the plexiglas. But because two of the panel are 1/2 the width of the large one, there’s no way to stand up the panels to “tap” the hinge on with a rubber mallet. Ended up getting piano hinges, machine screws and nuts, and drilling/assembling the damned thing myself. Live and learn. BTW, thanks for the drilling tips - I bought a new bit and went SLOW and it was fine. Here’s the Amazon shield so you know what NOT to get: smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IXXGBI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Muc7DbFTF3MQS
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