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Post by rcrecelius on Jun 19, 2014 14:34:16 GMT -7
I pretty much have answered my own question by searching the forum and finding this old thread but thought it was worth bringing it up to the top again. Like I've said before in my speaker thread, I've owned 2 Ghias before this one, the newest of which is the one with the racing stripe graphic. After the speaker/tube swapping I have done, I am pretty well convinced that this Ghia is somehow different than the ones I have owned in the past...it is louder, brighter and more "edgey" than the older ones I've had. Here's the thread that confirms what I was thinking. Now I am wondering if it would be worth sending it back to the Doc to convert it back to the older/smoother spec'd Ghia? Ghia Circuit Changes from Doc |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2014 14:41:10 GMT -7
I had a 2010 Ghia that I added the .001 cap across the 100k resistor referenced. Sounded great to my ears. Took away some brightness.
They just achieve different goals.
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Post by groovergeorge on Jun 20, 2014 6:28:29 GMT -7
Wow. I didn't know this.
I thought only the graphic , which I actually think is really cool looking was the only thing that had changed.
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Post by rcrecelius on Jun 20, 2014 10:58:31 GMT -7
I had a 2010 Ghia that I added the .001 cap across the 100k resistor referenced. Sounded great to my ears. Took away some brightness. They just achieve different goals. How difficult would you say this is to do? Would you say a novice could do it or would it be best left to an amp tech? I'm not a novice when it comes to soldering but I'm FAR from being an expert! |
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Post by smolder on Jun 20, 2014 11:58:58 GMT -7
Just getcha an earlier one and then you have the choice. You can't have enough Ghias. They work great in stereo.
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Post by Jacques Belanger on Jun 21, 2014 20:47:34 GMT -7
I had a 2010 Ghia that I added the .001 cap across the 100k resistor referenced. Sounded great to my ears. Took away some brightness. They just achieve different goals. How difficult would you say this is to do? Would you say a novice could do it or would it be best left to an amp tech? I'm not a novice when it comes to soldering but I'm FAR from being an expert! Difficult enough that it can KILL you if you don't know what you're doing. (seriously) people have died working inside a tube amp without the proper knowledge/safety precautions. The actual modification is very easy (10 min or less for a knowledgeable tech) but voltages present inside of tube amps are something that demand respect. and those voltages can still be there after an amp has been turned off AND unplugged for a long time. i've measured high voltages even after a MONTH. best to send it to the doc, or a knowledgeable tech, or just buy the one that sounds the way you want. or go to college and learn to do it the safe way.  I'd love to read all about you....just not in the obituary. rant over. please be safe people. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2014 6:53:41 GMT -7
+1 to being safe!
If you don't know how to check for voltage, then you shouldn't do the mod yourself.
The easiest way to drain the electrolytic caps is to play the amp at least 10-20 minutes, then unplug the IEC chord from the wall (do not turn off the power or standby switch). ASSUMING everything in the amp is functioning properly, the caps will discharge.
I would never go in for a mod/repair without triple checking for voltage across the electrolytic caps.
The mod itself is extremely simple. You're just adding a cap parallel to an existing resistor. Just make a J hook around the leads and solder away. I think wrapping the axial a all of the way around the turret is a mistake....it'll be hard to remove it if you don't like it.
Having said all of this....if you have extra money laying around, then send it to Doc's crew. They'll do a great job, and may even give you other options for getting what you want.
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Post by jesslm02 on Jul 15, 2014 17:30:16 GMT -7
And if you're real good you could add a switch to go back and forth, but that may require more modification than you want on a new amp.
Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Proboards
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Post by Jacques Belanger on Jul 23, 2014 11:04:59 GMT -7
The easiest way to drain the electrolytic caps is to play the amp at least 10-20 minutes, then unplug the IEC chord from the wall (do not turn off the power or standby switch). ASSUMING everything in the amp is functioning properly, the caps will discharge. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't give advice like that. I know you're trying to help, and your advice does have a small grain of truth..... But it is a lazy, irresponsible and potentially lethal piece of advice. Yanking the cord out of the wall while the power is on? HUH? I highly doubt the Doc's crew would ever recommend doing that. Besides......You should NEVER make an ASSUMPTION that everything is Functioning Properly. Test, test, test.... never assume. If you don't know how to test.....stay out. And bring it to someone who does. I've already lost a friend a few years ago to bad advice like this.....be safe. It only takes 1 second of carelessness.....and you're gone. Tube amps are NOT toys. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 18:26:09 GMT -7
Hi Jacques,
I'm sorry to hear that you lost a friend. Indeed anything with high voltage is not to be careless with.
Not to sound defensive, but I feel like my post was complete and clearly gave the same cautions you mention. I would never suggest someone ONLY unplugged the amp and went right in for work (again...see my post).
I feel like people here are intelligent enough to know not to approach something like that carelessly.
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Post by rcrecelius on Jul 24, 2014 9:09:57 GMT -7
Thanks for all the advice...I'm on the fence on this one, mod it or move it. If I choose to mod it, I will not be doing it myself so dont worry, I definitely wont be poking my hands in there while saying "yall watch this" |
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Post by Brimstone on Aug 5, 2014 18:14:29 GMT -7
What you were referring to is known as a "dirty discharge". I would not recommend it at all! Safety first!!
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Post by detuned on Aug 6, 2014 8:04:00 GMT -7
Good advice!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 4:39:11 GMT -7
Thanks for all the advice...I'm on the fence on this one, mod it or move it. If I choose to mod it, I will not be doing it myself so dont worry, I definitely wont be poking my hands in there while saying "yall watch this" rcrecelius, Any updates? |
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Post by Brimstone on Aug 22, 2014 5:58:46 GMT -7
Just love it for what it is. If you do anything try simple tube swaps. They can change the flavor.
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Post by pcns on Aug 22, 2014 6:02:10 GMT -7
Speakers can make a world of difference too. Red Fang is a bit darker and may sound really cool with the Ghia
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Post by rcrecelius on Aug 22, 2014 10:58:13 GMT -7
Updates? Actually I logged on today with the intention of putting it up for sale.
Its just not doing for me what other Ghias have done in the past. I don't know if my tastes have changed that much or ??. I love playing on the amp at home but get it on a gig and its just not working for me.
Currently it has a Gold in it along with some nice NOS preamp tubes and new EHX EL84's.
BST add will be up shortly.
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Post by jesslm02 on Aug 22, 2014 11:25:07 GMT -7
Yea I don't find my Ghia to be too bright at all. Sometimes I wish it had a little more top end, and that's with a tele, cel blue or WGS Blackhawk. Honestly though, it's about perfect as far treble goes. Mine is older... 2002 I think.
Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Proboards
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Post by Brimstone on Aug 24, 2014 9:20:19 GMT -7
Try a set of TAD el84's. They have a darker flavor with a Red Fang.
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Post by wolfie on Aug 24, 2014 16:11:46 GMT -7
My Ghia head is a couple years old and it sounds so good. I cant imagine ever needing to do any kind of mods to it.
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Post by Brimstone on Aug 25, 2014 16:20:21 GMT -7
My Ghia head is a couple years old and it sounds so good. I cant imagine ever needing to do any kind of mods to it. Me either ! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2014 4:17:56 GMT -7
Well, you can't please everyone as they say. I have owned four Ghia's (never the most recent version). I had a 90's, two from mid 2000's, and my last one was from 2010. They all shared the same basic tone (as would be expected). However, the one that sounded the best to my ears was the 2010 (not sure of other differences apart) that I added the .001 cap across the plate resistor on V1. It took away some harshness that I couldn't chase away with single coil guitars no matter now much I played with the guitar controls and amp / tubes / speakers / etc. To each their own. If I was ordering one from Doc's shop, then I'd ask for that extra cap and possibly even request the feedback resistor value be reduced to take away some edge/output. These are BASIC changes that don't change the voice of the amp at all. If you love the basic configuration of the amp, then its worth trying these things out (preferrably at the Doctors office). I've had four. I'll have another one. I sold the first three because the tone wasn't 100% right. The fourth one only got sold because I needed the money. I'll be back. |
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