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Post by jayb on Feb 25, 2010 7:30:41 GMT -7
What about a 5R4 in the Carmen Ghia?
I found an RCA 5R4 I had here. It's not something I'd run all the time. I would think it'd be fine but I always like a more official rendering in these situations.
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Post by myles on Feb 25, 2010 9:46:52 GMT -7
What about a 5R4 in the Carmen Ghia? I found an RCA 5R4 I had here. It's not something I'd run all the time. I would think it'd be fine but I always like a more official rendering in these situations. You can do that but the amp to me gets too stiff, the output tubes will have a shorter life with the higher voltages and the 1 amp fuse may be a bit marginal.
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Post by chazor on Mar 16, 2010 19:10:42 GMT -7
I have a GZ 34 rectifier installed in my 1998 MAZ Invasion. Is this tube ok or will it cause damage?
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Post by myles on Mar 17, 2010 8:17:19 GMT -7
I have a GZ 34 rectifier installed in my 1998 MAZ Invasion. Is this tube ok or will it cause damage? A GZ34/5AR4 is the rectifier that is stock for the MAZ. It works properly. A 5Y3 is the stock rectifier for a Carmen Ghia.
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Post by mickey on May 23, 2010 0:26:51 GMT -7
IMO the JJ rectifier is a bit stiff compared to the Sovtec. The Sovtec gives the amp a great feel and not expensive to replace. The Sovtec really complements the amps' performance. I've tried old mullards..with similar results as the JJ Can anyone say what NOS 5AR4/GZ34 rectifier does give a good feel with a Maz 38? I was looking for a Mullard, but this suggests I'm better off sticking to the Sovtek, which sounds good to me, though it doesn't have the longevity. Thanks!
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Post by myles on May 23, 2010 7:17:04 GMT -7
Sovteks have less consistent voltage, out of spec voltage drop and short life.
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Post by mickey on May 23, 2010 8:43:45 GMT -7
Thanks Myles. Well, for better or worse, a few minutes ago I just bought a NOS Mullard GZ34, code f32 B1L2. new logo, serrated plates, single halo. Don't know what most of that means, except it is from the Blackburn factory and dates, I think, from '71. I'll let you know how it works in the Maz Sr!
If there's any reason why I should not install it please let me know soon!
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Post by myles on May 23, 2010 21:02:54 GMT -7
Thanks Myles. Well, for better or worse, a few minutes ago I just bought a NOS Mullard GZ34, code f32 B1L2. new logo, serrated plates, single halo. Don't know what most of that means, except it is from the Blackburn factory and dates, I think, from '71. I'll let you know how it works in the Maz Sr! If there's any reason why I should not install it please let me know soon! It will work great and be stone reliable.
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Post by mickey on May 23, 2010 22:27:38 GMT -7
That's great news Myles, thank you!
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Post by hitoverdrive on Aug 6, 2010 22:56:51 GMT -7
I have a Monza and I'm wanting to try a 5V4 in it. Its cathode biased so I wouldn't have to worry about rebiasing right? Is this ok to do in the Monza as another choice to the GZ34?
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Post by myles on Aug 7, 2010 9:21:51 GMT -7
I have a Monza and I'm wanting to try a 5V4 in it. Its cathode biased so I wouldn't have to worry about rebiasing right? Is this ok to do in the Monza as another choice to the GZ34? That will work fine. Your plate voltage will drop a bit and the amp will be a bit looser which you may like.
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Post by hitoverdrive on Aug 7, 2010 12:44:03 GMT -7
I have a Monza and I'm wanting to try a 5V4 in it. Its cathode biased so I wouldn't have to worry about rebiasing right? Is this ok to do in the Monza as another choice to the GZ34? That will work fine. Your plate voltage will drop a bit and the amp will be a bit looser which you may like. Hi Miles. Thanx for chiming in...was hoping you would. Thats what I'm going for but am watching that the low end doesn't become too loose. I don't mind a bit of a loose feel as it can sound really nice and blues/classic rock is where that can be a plus IHMO. I'll give it a try and see how it works out. One other question I have is I see 2 designations for the 5V4 so far. A 5V4GA and 5V4G. What is the difference between these 2 offerings?
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Post by myles on Aug 8, 2010 9:26:57 GMT -7
That will work fine. Your plate voltage will drop a bit and the amp will be a bit looser which you may like. Hi Miles. Thanx for chiming in...was hoping you would. Thats what I'm going for but am watching that the low end doesn't become too loose. I don't mind a bit of a loose feel as it can sound really nice and blues/classic rock is where that can be a plus IHMO. I'll give it a try and see how it works out. One other question I have is I see 2 designations for the 5V4 so far. A 5V4GA and 5V4G. What is the difference between these 2 offerings? There is really no difference, the A was just a later version but they are totally interchangable.
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Post by hitoverdrive on Aug 8, 2010 9:53:58 GMT -7
Thank you much Myles.
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Post by myles on Aug 8, 2010 9:57:16 GMT -7
You are welcome ... happy playing!
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ksks
Full Member
Posts: 120
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Post by ksks on Sept 13, 2010 16:06:40 GMT -7
RE: 5V4G vs. 5V4GA
The G tubes are the "coke bottle" shape whereas the GA has straight sides. Functionally the same as Myles stated.
The G tends to cost more. I believe this is because the tube audio people like the looks better when the tubes are exposed (more exotic).
Also, I've read on the various forums (take that for what it is worth), that the G may not be a good choice in a combo amp as the G tube shape may be more susceptible to vibrations. Probably OK in a head.
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Post by myles on Sept 14, 2010 9:28:44 GMT -7
RE: 5V4G vs. 5V4GA The G tubes are the "coke bottle" shape whereas the GA has straight sides. Functionally the same as Myles stated. The G tends to cost more. I believe this is because the tube audio people like the looks better when the tubes are exposed (more exotic). Also, I've read on the various forums (take that for what it is worth), that the G may not be a good choice in a combo amp as the G tube shape may be more susceptible to vibrations. Probably OK in a head. You are 100% on the money in your response here.
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Post by Scott on Oct 17, 2010 1:30:44 GMT -7
I have a second amp that uses a 5Y3GT. It currently has an old Mullard in there... Could I use a 5Y3GT in a Maz Jr, and what would it do to it's Power output. The 5Y3GT is used in a 8 watt RMS amp, so I assume the Jr's output would drop substantially? Thanks!
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Post by myles on Oct 17, 2010 10:23:42 GMT -7
I have a second amp that uses a 5Y3GT. It currently has an old Mullard in there... Could I use a 5Y3GT in a Maz Jr, and what would it do to it's Power output. The 5Y3GT is used in a 8 watt RMS amp, so I assume the Jr's output would drop substantially? Thanks! You can use a 5Y3 in a MAZ Jr. It will soften things a bit. I personally like doing that in a MAZ Jr.
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Post by Scott on Oct 17, 2010 10:56:18 GMT -7
Thanks!! Makes it easier to spend some $$ on buying a second NOS 5Y3 knowing it could work in both of my amps.
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bartc
Junior Member
Posts: 59
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Post by bartc on Jan 28, 2011 20:18:37 GMT -7
I totally agree with Lefty! Also not But, Some amp's characteristics are not fitted for the style of music you may be playing that night, and a change in rectifier tube and or pre amp tube can really give you a new amplifier. For example I have used my Carmen Ghia and Route 66 to do ten different sounds in the studio simply by changing tubes and turning knobs. I do like Weber copper cap rectifiers for certain applications. What is so great about Z amps is they sound great out of the box, but if yo throw that grill on the back to the side and know how to bias and switch the proper tubes you have a lot of beautiful tones at your command. If you use two hot 12AX7s in a Ghia, and then switch to two 12AY7s you have two totally different amps. And both sound great!
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Post by newsong on Mar 5, 2011 10:27:33 GMT -7
Playing along just fine on my Maz 18 NR when all of the sudden my sound just faded out. Checking the tubes, found that my rectifier wasn't lit. and the 1/2 amp fuse blown. Any thoughts?
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Post by myles on Mar 5, 2011 11:21:37 GMT -7
Playing along just fine on my Maz 18 NR when all of the sudden my sound just faded out. Checking the tubes, found that my rectifier wasn't lit. and the 1/2 amp fuse blown. Any thoughts? 95% chance it is a failed rectifier. The AC fuse blown will generally blow when a rectifier is bad. The HT fuse will blow if an output tube fails so ... there is also a very high chance one of your putput tubes blew and perhap took out the rectifier. Like I say over and over and over .... change EL84 output tubes in cathode biased amps often.
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Post by Scott on Mar 6, 2011 2:00:53 GMT -7
HT fuse ?
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Post by hitoverdrive on Mar 6, 2011 8:06:16 GMT -7
Playing along just fine on my Maz 18 NR when all of the sudden my sound just faded out. Checking the tubes, found that my rectifier wasn't lit. and the 1/2 amp fuse blown. Any thoughts? 95% chance it is a failed rectifier. The AC fuse blown will generally blow when a rectifier is bad. The HT fuse will blow if an output tube fails so ... there is also a very high chance one of your putput tubes blew and perhap took out the rectifier. Like I say over and over and over .... change EL84 output tubes in cathode biased amps often. I've got a GZ34 Mullard and a GZ34 BEL which have been rock solid with my Monza. Thought I try a current production rectifrier. So I used a JJ GZ34 a couple weeks back and it lasted about an hour before it lit up and died. I got to see it too cause I was roll'n preamp tubes and had the back of the head turned towards me. Startled the shizz out of me! I checked the fuse and it looked fine. I emailed Don at Z amp repair and he told me change it any way. It wouldn't power up just with a tube change. I got me some fuses and put a new one in and it fired right up. First rectifier tube to blow in my Monza. The BEL is back in. It has several hours of play on it.
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Post by myles on Mar 6, 2011 10:06:44 GMT -7
You said the 1/2 amp fuse. In the amps with two fuses that is the high tension fuse, the B+ or plate voltage. If that fuse blows it is generally an indication that one of your output tubes blew.
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Post by myles on Mar 6, 2011 10:09:49 GMT -7
95% chance it is a failed rectifier. The AC fuse blown will generally blow when a rectifier is bad. The HT fuse will blow if an output tube fails so ... there is also a very high chance one of your putput tubes blew and perhap took out the rectifier. Like I say over and over and over .... change EL84 output tubes in cathode biased amps often. I've got a GZ34 Mullard and a GZ34 BEL which have been rock solid with my Monza. Thought I try a current production rectifrier. So I used a JJ GZ34 a couple weeks back and it lasted about an hour before it lit up and died. I got to see it too cause I was roll'n preamp tubes and had the back of the head turned towards me. Startled the shizz out of me! I checked the fuse and it looked fine. I emailed Don at Z amp repair and he told me change it any way. It wouldn't power up just with a tube change. I got me some fuses and put a new one in and it fired right up. First rectifier tube to blow in my Monza. The BEL is back in. It has several hours of play on it. If you have been having problems with rectifiers failing and have not changed output tubes I can only strongly suggest that you replace output tubes. Perhaps I do not understand what you are saying here if this is not what I am reading.
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Post by Scott on Mar 6, 2011 10:33:40 GMT -7
You said the 1/2 amp fuse. In the amps with two fuses that is the high tension fuse, the B+ or plate voltage. If that fuse blows it is generally an indication that one of your output tubes blew. TY!! (I didn't know what HT stood for.)
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Post by hitoverdrive on Mar 6, 2011 22:42:27 GMT -7
I've got a GZ34 Mullard and a GZ34 BEL which have been rock solid with my Monza. Thought I try a current production rectifrier. So I used a JJ GZ34 a couple weeks back and it lasted about an hour before it lit up and died. I got to see it too cause I was roll'n preamp tubes and had the back of the head turned towards me. Startled the shizz out of me! I checked the fuse and it looked fine. I emailed Don at Z amp repair and he told me change it any way. It wouldn't power up just with a tube change. I got me some fuses and put a new one in and it fired right up. First rectifier tube to blow in my Monza. The BEL is back in. It has several hours of play on it. If you have been having problems with rectifiers failing and have not changed output tubes I can only strongly suggest that you replace output tubes. Perhaps I do not understand what you are saying here if this is not what I am reading. Sorry for being unclear Myles hehe. I was just sharing an experience with a current production rectifier tube blowing with barely any time on it. Plus the fact that the fuse appeared to look fine but really wasn't and changing it enabled the amp to work. The power tubes are pretty fresh as they are and I agree with you about changing them more often with these cathode biased amps.
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Post by myles on Mar 7, 2011 10:02:28 GMT -7
If you have been having problems with rectifiers failing and have not changed output tubes I can only strongly suggest that you replace output tubes. Perhaps I do not understand what you are saying here if this is not what I am reading. Sorry for being unclear Myles hehe. I was just sharing an experience with a current production rectifier tube blowing with barely any time on it. Plus the fact that the fuse appeared to look fine but really wasn't and changing it enabled the amp to work. The power tubes are pretty fresh as they are and I agree with you about changing them more often with these cathode biased amps. No problem. Current production rectifers are not very reliable for the most part. It is work investing in an NOS unit as they last decades. On fuses, never just inspect visually as the wire could be broken under the metal end and the break may not be visible. I always meter fuses, even new ones before installing. Those new fuses might come from a place that made the quality of your rectifier look first rate
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