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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2011 17:44:15 GMT -7
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Post by randalp3000 on Oct 28, 2011 18:03:56 GMT -7
Man those are not going for what they deserve. Now's the time to buy a Route, they're almost giving them away lately.
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Post by zdogma on Nov 12, 2011 18:47:35 GMT -7
I think he signed all the early ones: This is mine. I much prefer it to the newer ones.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2011 12:53:32 GMT -7
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Nice!
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Post by indianroad on Nov 28, 2011 18:31:12 GMT -7
Boy, I hope you guys are right. It should be arriving by the end of the week.
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Post by prspastor on Nov 28, 2011 20:31:10 GMT -7
Congrats on the purchase!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2011 23:40:40 GMT -7
Boy, I hope you guys are right. It should be arriving by the end of the week. Remember it's used so there is a good chance it needs a retube. I think you will be pleased. Like any Dr. Z amp it will sound great at any volume. I always preferred mine with the volume at 1:00-2:00 o'clock with the bass and treble at 3:00-5:00 o'clock respectively. YMMV. Congrats.
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Post by prspastor on Nov 29, 2011 15:36:06 GMT -7
I would add one caveat that I've learned from Myles. Don't worry about retubing your rectifier (either a 5AR4 or 5U4) or the EF86. Both of those tubes last a long time, especially if they are NOS. I'd just look into replacing the phase inverter (the 12AX7) and the power tubes. Let's have a tone report and pics as soon as you get it!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2011 16:47:57 GMT -7
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Great point!
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Post by indianroad on Nov 29, 2011 16:59:47 GMT -7
OTW, will keep you posted, and thanks for the advice. But, then again, you are partially responsible for my purchase (LOL.)
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Post by John on Nov 29, 2011 17:22:51 GMT -7
...makin' me miss my old interstate 66
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Post by prspastor on Nov 29, 2011 20:19:50 GMT -7
OTW, will keep you posted, and thanks for the advice. But, then again, you are partially responsible for my purchase (LOL.) Hey you know... Just trying to spread the good news!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2011 10:57:03 GMT -7
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Post by prspastor on Nov 30, 2011 18:44:38 GMT -7
^^^^^ Looks like the rectifier and one of the KT66 are switched in their sockets on that one. I hope they haven't powered it up like that...
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Post by randalp3000 on Nov 30, 2011 18:48:28 GMT -7
^^^^^ Looks like the rectifier and one of the KT66 are switched in their sockets on that one. I hope they haven't powered it up like that... I saw that too, kinda scary.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2011 12:19:35 GMT -7
^^^^^ Looks like the rectifier and one of the KT66 are switched in their sockets on that one. I hope they haven't powered it up like that... I saw that too, kinda scary. You guys are right. I'd say something to the guy, but the last time I did that on evil bay the seller threatened my life. Some real winners can sell on there.
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Post by Andy 67 on Dec 1, 2011 17:03:15 GMT -7
I think he signed all the early ones: This is mine. I much prefer it to the newer ones. I know it's been asked thousands of times, but, what's the difference beteween 'old 66s' and 'new 66s'? I know it has something to do with the filter caps, but I'd really like to know the tech stuff (and, of course, the sound stuff...) Tons of tone!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2011 19:28:58 GMT -7
I think he signed all the early ones: This is mine. I much prefer it to the newer ones. I know it's been asked thousands of times, but, what's the difference beteween 'old 66s' and 'new 66s'? I know it has something to do with the filter caps, but I'd really like to know the tech stuff (and, of course, the sound stuff...) Tons of tone!! The power supply was beefed up on the newer 66 2000?-current. Some owners seem to love the extra something they get from the older builds. Like the true artist he is, Doc prefers his current builds. I'm not gonna argue with him. I'll just have to have both.
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Post by rickbob on Dec 1, 2011 21:53:12 GMT -7
Hi guys, I haven't been on this forum forever..thanks for that pic zdogma. I've got number 12 sitting here, it used to have an almost identical sig on it but for some reason it has faded over time, almost impossible to see now. I've had it for almost 10 years, never cleaned it with anything harsher than a damp cloth to swab the dust... Anyhow, one other difference on these oldies is the PT was made by a different vendor. Dixie Sound Works. Also, Doc didn't have a proprietary chassis built for the earliest ones, looking at the amp from the back all the components are "heavy" to the right...the GZ34 is so far over you need to pull it before sliding the chassis out in most cases, depending on the size of the particular tube, or it will hit the 'rib' (or whatever you call it) that the back cover screws onto. edit to add pic of back..you can see the offset..and if you look close you'll see I actually 'trimmed' the rib on mine after I broke the GZ34 first time I slid the chassis out (thankfully it was a Chinese firecracker anyhow , no loss there!)
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Post by Andy 67 on Dec 2, 2011 1:29:21 GMT -7
Thanks for the replies, guys, you're awesome!!! Tons of tone!!
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Post by prspastor on Dec 2, 2011 6:36:26 GMT -7
I *think* that the older Routes had less DC filtering than the new ones. I think that the newer ones have 3 or 4 caps in the power supply. That has gone through some changes too... Those 4 caps used to all be in the one can cap for a little while. Now on mine that was built this summer, it has a dual can cap and 2 more caps on the turret board. I'm MUCH happier about that design change because sourcing a 4 value can cap is more difficult than a 2 value cap. It is not impossible to do and you can always mod the powersupply if you can't find one when a cap job is due. This extra capacitance helps filter out some rippleand ghost notes some were experiencing. The other change is the rectifier. Doc has switched from a 5AR4 to 5U4 here in last little bit for more note bloom, sustain, and less volume.
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Post by zdogma on Dec 2, 2011 15:22:02 GMT -7
I agree with pretty much everything you guys have said. Mine sounds like a GREAT vintage amp (big tweed or Marshall depending on the setup), I think the lighter filtering on the old ones is a big part of that, but the tranny may play a part as well.
Good point about the rectifier, you have to be careful not to ding it when pulling the chassis. The other quirk with the older route, it has a nut and lockwasher holding in the chassis, rather than the press fit machined nuts that are in the new ones, so you usually need a wrench on the nut to unscrew or tighten the chassis bolts. I have to pull off my faceplate to access the front bolts. The new ones just unscrew.
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