Post by Gregg White (aka stratbrat) on Mar 27, 2008 14:30:45 GMT -7
My AirBrake died on me. Checked out the innards to look for any loose connection or obvious issues. I haven't checked anything with an ohm meter yet.
I saw nothing apparent. Has anyone else had their Brake die? Any ideas as to possible reasons for failure?
I'd like to fix it before a gig tomorrow night. I'm not an electronics wiz, but I know my way around a soldering iron and a meter. I'm hoping there is a problem that is common to the AirBrake that I can fix quickly.
Get that ohm meter out. I would do the basic checks before popping it open. Plug a connector or cable into each side. Take the covers off of the connectors and make sure that you read zero or nearly zero ohms from ground-to-ground and then hot-to-hot with zero attenuation dialed in. Then I would go hot-to-hot and kind of read how the ohms change as you turn the attenuator knob up notch by notch. Actually, I'll pull my ohm meter and see what my readings are.
With mine at a setting of zero and 1, my ohm meter stayed at zero. At 2, I got 4 ohms. At 3, I got 8 ohms. At 4 I got 12 ohms. At bedroom it went to about 22 ohms with the bedroom level set at min and went to about 200 ohms with the bedroom level set at max.
Another quick check that makes sense is to set the ohm meter across the hot and ground on the output. If you dial in zero attenuation, you should see the reading go to infinity.
I'm using an old Radio Shack analog ohm meter, so my readings should be taken as approximate.
If something doesn't look right, I would then open up the box. You then want to connect the meter to, say, one or the other input connector's hot and then move your ohm meter's probe from spot to spot along the signal path to see where the funkiness is at.
I'm probably stating the obvious, but if nothing else, my ohm readings might help you. There shouldn't be much to go wrong within the box unless you really drove some power through it and/or popped off an unstable connection. Good luck!
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