Ask Myles or Chad - amp or live playing questions

[aarondavis]

Thanks Miles. Yeah, I wasn't really clear. I simply wanted to test his amp with a GZ34 or my 5V4. I actually let him borrow my 5V4 out of my KT45 until the NOS RCA 5Y3 he ordered came in. His Ghia is roaring again.

[BritInvasion]

Hi Myles - I have a question about the phase inverter tube in my Maz18 Jr head. It originally came with a Sovtek 12AX7LPS. I was wondering why the LPS seems to be the tube of choice for that position in the amp , and what are the pros and cons using it for a PI. Are there better choices? Or should I stick with it? Thanks Myles !

[myles]

Feb 25, 2013 19:57:20 GMT -7 BritInvasion said:

Hi Myles - I have a question about the phase inverter tube in my Maz18 Jr head. It originally came with a Sovtek 12AX7LPS. I was wondering why the LPS seems to be the tube of choice for that position in the amp , and what are the pros and cons using it for a PI. Are there better choices? Or should I stick with it? Thanks Myles !

There is no right or wrong.  I personally prefer long plate tubes for the phase inverter position.  As a generality their current is proper (1.2mA for a spec 12AX7) while short plate tubes can be low.  When I test these I test for current and not for gain.  It is current, not gained voltage, that provides the "push" driving your output section.

Sorry for the late reply.  I did not get an email notification on this post.  Perhaps it is this new system or perhaps I have to update my profile.

[BritInvasion]

^^ Thank you Myles , I appreciate your input!

[zwrecker]

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and this is my first post.... I apologize if I am in the wrong forum for asking this question. Anyways, I am a huge fan of Z amps but I have never had the chance to own one until now... Problem is, I don't know which one is best for my needs... I have a Cordoba acoustic electrical ukulele, a Seagull acoustic guitar that plugs in, and I am a "soon to be" owner of a Crook "Water" guitar... I am in High school still and I need an amp that will best suit these instruments and won't hit my past years savings too hard (I spent most on my Crook) .... Do you guys have any suggestions on which Z amp best fits my needs? 

Thanks,

mikey

[myles]

Mar 1, 2013 12:14:51 GMT -7 zwrecker said:

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and this is my first post.... I apologize if I am in the wrong forum for asking this question. Anyways, I am a huge fan of Z amps but I have never had the chance to own one until now... Problem is, I don't know which one is best for my needs... I have a Cordoba acoustic electrical ukulele, a Seagull acoustic guitar that plugs in, and I am a "soon to be" owner of a Crook "Water" guitar... I am in High school still and I need an amp that will best suit these instruments and won't hit my past years savings too hard (I spent most on my Crook) .... Do you guys have any suggestions on which Z amp best fits my needs? 

Thanks,

mikey

Mikey,

You may want to check with some of your local friends.  There are many ways to go and most of us here know nothing about your style or taste in music.

A safe bet for a great all around amp is the classic MAZ 18 1x12 combo.  It will cover a lot of ground and will be something you keep in your tone arsenal for the rest of your life.  

I usually answer questions like this one with a question:  I am getting a bit hungry.  What do you suggest I have for lunch?  

Seriously, it is a question with many answers that raises many more questions.

 

[Matt]

Hello Myles,

I’m having a tough time getting my low end/lower midrange under control and not sound bloated or getting muddy. It’s particularly a problem on higher gain settings but also to a lesser extent on cleanish tones. I'm trying to reign in the loose bottom end/lower midrange and get some articulation on the lower strings. I’m barely running any bass on the Maz so not sure what else to do.

Here’s what I’m playing with:
I play an American Deluxe Strat (Bare Knuckle Pickups) tuned down to Drop Db (lowest string to Db and the rest a half step down) into a Maz 38 NR . The amp is set to clean, bass is set very low around 4-5 o’clock, Mids around 9-10, Highs around 10-11, Cut around 10 or so. I currently run the amp through a Port City OS 1x12 cab or stock Z Best for larger venues (which isn’t often). I have all NOS preamp tubes and production power tubes all from reputable suppliers. I use some well-made boutique pedals for my gain.

I tried a SS rectifier last practice and was surprised by just how much a difference it made - neither good nor bad, just different. There was way less compression. The sound did tighten up the low end a bit and added quite a bit of high end to the sound. I actually like how it makes my gain pedals sound more modern. However, I'm still struggling getting greater clarity at higher gain settings.

Any thoughts on using a SS rectifier?

Any thoughts on getting clarity and articulation from a guitar using higher gain settings that is also tuned down to drop Db (without changing the tuning)?

One suggestion from another forumite was to go to heavier strings to get more clarity, your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the advice. It’s greatly appreciated!

[myles]

Mar 18, 2013 18:18:52 GMT -7 Matt said:

Hello Myles,

I’m having a tough time getting my low end/lower midrange under control and not sound bloated or getting muddy. It’s particularly a problem on higher gain settings but also to a lesser extent on cleanish tones. I'm trying to reign in the loose bottom end/lower midrange and get some articulation on the lower strings. I’m barely running any bass on the Maz so not sure what else to do.

Here’s what I’m playing with:
I play an American Deluxe Strat (Bare Knuckle Pickups) tuned down to Drop Db (lowest string to Db and the rest a half step down) into a Maz 38 NR . The amp is set to clean, bass is set very low around 4-5 o’clock, Mids around 9-10, Highs around 10-11, Cut around 10 or so. I currently run the amp through a Port City OS 1x12 cab or stock Z Best for larger venues (which isn’t often). I have all NOS preamp tubes and production power tubes all from reputable suppliers. I use some well-made boutique pedals for my gain.

I tried a SS rectifier last practice and was surprised by just how much a difference it made - neither good nor bad, just different. There was way less compression. The sound did tighten up the low end a bit and added quite a bit of high end to the sound. I actually like how it makes my gain pedals sound more modern. However, I'm still struggling getting greater clarity at higher gain settings.

Any thoughts on using a SS rectifier?

Any thoughts on getting clarity and articulation from a guitar using higher gain settings that is also tuned down to drop Db (without changing the tuning)?

One suggestion from another forumite was to go to heavier strings to get more clarity, your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the advice. It’s greatly appreciated!

Matt,

The simple part first.  SS rectifiers.  They produce less heat.  They are more reliable.  The raise the voltage a touch which means little as the voltage rise in the B+ is very little.  They react more quickly so the amp will be a bit more lively and reactive.  I like them in many applications and always carry one as a spare if it is not the main rectifier in the amp.

On your low end issue....

First, has this always been an issue?  This sounds like a classic case of output tubes needing a change or a phase inverter being out of spec on current output.  

The first thing I would do if I was checking your amp for you is look at the current drive on the phase inverter and assure it is 1.2/1.2mA to 1.5/1.5mA  If lower than 1.1 I would toss it.  If higher than 1.5 I would then check the plate resistance (specialized equipment necessary for each of these tests) as over 1.5 is common with today's production tubes often as the plate resistance being out of spec makes the plate current high but drops the gain and transconductance to awful performance areas.

Output tubes .... 44mA - 50mA at 250 plate volts with a -7.2 volt bias.  Match within 5%.

ALWAYS PLAY WITH YOUR MASTER VOLUME TURNED ALL THE WAY UP!!!  For clean headroom get the master out of the picture.  I have lost track of the great players I have shown this to who were all quite amazed.

The MAZ 38 rarely has a problem in regard to low end.  They use great iron (output and power transformer).  

Check these issues first even if the tubes are new unless you have a good vendor with known good performance.  If there is still an issue the amp will need a bit of modification to bring it closer to being used in the way you wish for things to work in your particular application.  That is sort of what blueprinting is about but I feel that chances are the items above are probably the issue on your MAZ.

[Matt]

Mar 19, 2013 9:09:49 GMT -7 myles said:

Mar 18, 2013 18:18:52 GMT -7 Matt said:

Hello Myles,

I’m having a tough time getting my low end/lower midrange under control and not sound bloated or getting muddy. It’s particularly a problem on higher gain settings but also to a lesser extent on cleanish tones. I'm trying to reign in the loose bottom end/lower midrange and get some articulation on the lower strings. I’m barely running any bass on the Maz so not sure what else to do.

Here’s what I’m playing with:
I play an American Deluxe Strat (Bare Knuckle Pickups) tuned down to Drop Db (lowest string to Db and the rest a half step down) into a Maz 38 NR . The amp is set to clean, bass is set very low around 4-5 o’clock, Mids around 9-10, Highs around 10-11, Cut around 10 or so. I currently run the amp through a Port City OS 1x12 cab or stock Z Best for larger venues (which isn’t often). I have all NOS preamp tubes and production power tubes all from reputable suppliers. I use some well-made boutique pedals for my gain.

I tried a SS rectifier last practice and was surprised by just how much a difference it made - neither good nor bad, just different. There was way less compression. The sound did tighten up the low end a bit and added quite a bit of high end to the sound. I actually like how it makes my gain pedals sound more modern. However, I'm still struggling getting greater clarity at higher gain settings.

Any thoughts on using a SS rectifier?

Any thoughts on getting clarity and articulation from a guitar using higher gain settings that is also tuned down to drop Db (without changing the tuning)?

One suggestion from another forumite was to go to heavier strings to get more clarity, your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the advice. It’s greatly appreciated!

Matt,

The simple part first.  SS rectifiers.  They produce less heat.  They are more reliable.  The raise the voltage a touch which means little as the voltage rise in the B+ is very little.  They react more quickly so the amp will be a bit more lively and reactive.  I like them in many applications and always carry one as a spare if it is not the main rectifier in the amp.

On your low end issue....

First, has this always been an issue?  This sounds like a classic case of output tubes needing a change or a phase inverter being out of spec on current output.  

The first thing I would do if I was checking your amp for you is look at the current drive on the phase inverter and assure it is 1.2/1.2mA to 1.5/1.5mA  If lower than 1.1 I would toss it.  If higher than 1.5 I would then check the plate resistance (specialized equipment necessary for each of these tests) as over 1.5 is common with today's production tubes often as the plate resistance being out of spec makes the plate current high but drops the gain and transconductance to awful performance areas.

Output tubes .... 44mA - 50mA at 250 plate volts with a -7.2 volt bias.  Match within 5%.

ALWAYS PLAY WITH YOUR MASTER VOLUME TURNED ALL THE WAY UP!!!  For clean headroom get the master out of the picture.  I have lost track of the great players I have shown this to who were all quite amazed.

The MAZ 38 rarely has a problem in regard to low end.  They use great iron (output and power transformer).  

Check these issues first even if the tubes are new unless you have a good vendor with known good performance.  If there is still an issue the amp will need a bit of modification to bring it closer to being used in the way you wish for things to work in your particular application.  That is sort of what blueprinting is about but I feel that chances are the items above are probably the issue on your MAZ.

Thanks for the advice Myles, I'll definitely try the master volume maxed next practice.

I've had this issue since I purchased the amp. I do have new power tubes and a new PI in it all from very reputable suppliers. I can't vouch for the tube specs since I don't have the equipment or knowledge to test them but I assume they're spot on considering the source. 

I thought the bloated low end/lower mid-range originally was from the Z Best cab due to the porting. Got a different cab and that helped a bit. Dropped the bass dial down on the amp and it helped a bit. Tried the SS rectifier which helped a bit (and really like how it tightened up). Now I'm thinking it's my low tuning or that I'm running too much gain into the amp (since it's mostly on the higher gain tones), maybe a combination of both. I just can't seem to get a super aggressive yet super articulate higher gain tone.

[myles]

Mar 20, 2013 17:57:05 GMT -7 Matt said:

Mar 19, 2013 9:09:49 GMT -7 myles said:

Matt,

The simple part first.  SS rectifiers.  They produce less heat.  They are more reliable.  The raise the voltage a touch which means little as the voltage rise in the B+ is very little.  They react more quickly so the amp will be a bit more lively and reactive.  I like them in many applications and always carry one as a spare if it is not the main rectifier in the amp.

On your low end issue....

First, has this always been an issue?  This sounds like a classic case of output tubes needing a change or a phase inverter being out of spec on current output.  

The first thing I would do if I was checking your amp for you is look at the current drive on the phase inverter and assure it is 1.2/1.2mA to 1.5/1.5mA  If lower than 1.1 I would toss it.  If higher than 1.5 I would then check the plate resistance (specialized equipment necessary for each of these tests) as over 1.5 is common with today's production tubes often as the plate resistance being out of spec makes the plate current high but drops the gain and transconductance to awful performance areas.

Output tubes .... 44mA - 50mA at 250 plate volts with a -7.2 volt bias.  Match within 5%.

ALWAYS PLAY WITH YOUR MASTER VOLUME TURNED ALL THE WAY UP!!!  For clean headroom get the master out of the picture.  I have lost track of the great players I have shown this to who were all quite amazed.

The MAZ 38 rarely has a problem in regard to low end.  They use great iron (output and power transformer).  

Check these issues first even if the tubes are new unless you have a good vendor with known good performance.  If there is still an issue the amp will need a bit of modification to bring it closer to being used in the way you wish for things to work in your particular application.  That is sort of what blueprinting is about but I feel that chances are the items above are probably the issue on your MAZ.

Thanks for the advice Myles, I'll definitely try the master volume maxed next practice.

I've had this issue since I purchased the amp. I do have new power tubes and a new PI in it all from very reputable suppliers. I can't vouch for the tube specs since I don't have the equipment or knowledge to test them but I assume they're spot on considering the source. 

I thought the bloated low end/lower mid-range originally was from the Z Best cab due to the porting. Got a different cab and that helped a bit. Dropped the bass dial down on the amp and it helped a bit. Tried the SS rectifier which helped a bit (and really like how it tightened up). Now I'm thinking it's my low tuning or that I'm running too much gain into the amp (since it's mostly on the higher gain tones), maybe a combination of both. I just can't seem to get a super aggressive yet super articulate higher gain tone.

If you are using a pedal in the front assure the output level of the pedal is not too hot.

Also, who is your tube vendor?

[Matt]

Mar 20, 2013 18:01:04 GMT -7 myles said:

Mar 20, 2013 17:57:05 GMT -7 Matt said:

Thanks for the advice Myles, I'll definitely try the master volume maxed next practice.

I've had this issue since I purchased the amp. I do have new power tubes and a new PI in it all from very reputable suppliers. I can't vouch for the tube specs since I don't have the equipment or knowledge to test them but I assume they're spot on considering the source. 

I thought the bloated low end/lower mid-range originally was from the Z Best cab due to the porting. Got a different cab and that helped a bit. Dropped the bass dial down on the amp and it helped a bit. Tried the SS rectifier which helped a bit (and really like how it tightened up). Now I'm thinking it's my low tuning or that I'm running too much gain into the amp (since it's mostly on the higher gain tones), maybe a combination of both. I just can't seem to get a super aggressive yet super articulate higher gain tone.

If you are using a pedal in the front assure the output level of the pedal is not too hot.

Also, who is your tube vendor?

I'll double check my pedal levels. Should I be aiming for unity gain on my pedals? I currently have them set to be boost the levels some so the gainier tones rise in volume a touch for dynamic purposes.



I used KCA for my preamp and PI tubes. I used the Tube Store for my power tubes. I always reference what amp I'm ordering for when I make my purchase.

[myles]

Try to go for unity gain. Both your tube vendors are good ones but on output tubes always tell them you want mid range tubes, none of that early or late distortion stuff.

[bluebird]

Hi Myles,
I stupidly turned on EZG 50 head without being connected to cab for about 6 minutes, I then realised and turn off head. I have played the amp for about 6 hours since and noticed nothing wrong everything seems perfect, just wondering could I have damaged or weakened a component or am I lucky and good to go, so to speak.
Thanks Dec.

[myles]

Jun 17, 2013 13:01:18 GMT -7 bluebird said:

Hi Myles,
I stupidly turned on EZG 50 head without being connected to cab for about 6 minutes, I then realised and turn off head. I have played the amp for about 6 hours since and noticed nothing wrong everything seems perfect, just wondering could I have damaged or weakened a component or am I lucky and good to go, so to speak.
Thanks Dec.

It sounds like you turned things on but did not play.  Perhaps you even left the amp in standby (which would have caused no issue at all).

In any case, if things work now there is no problem and you stressed nothing and there is no weakness.  The Doc uses great transformers, very overbuilt.  Rest easy, your amp is just as good as it was prior to the boo boo.  Happy playing.  Great amp by the way.

[bluebird]

Thanks Myles.

[BritInvasion]

Happy Birthday , Myles!

[jlowder23]

Chad,
I just started using in-ears. I have a sennheiser ew300 g3 with westone custom molds with 5 drivers. My amp setup is usually either my remedy or stangray with celestion 12" gold. I mic my amp with a e609 silver. I am having a horrible time getting my guitar tone to sound good through my ears. It sounds to tinney and to overdriven. All of the other instruments sound fine. It almost sounds like I am overdriving the mic. Just wondering if you have any suggestions?? Thanks!

[myles]

Jul 2, 2013 5:59:17 GMT -7 jlowder23 said:

Chad,
I just started using in-ears. I have a sennheiser ew300 g3 with westone custom molds with 5 drivers. My amp setup is usually either my remedy or stangray with celestion 12" gold. I mic my amp with a e609 silver. I am having a horrible time getting my guitar tone to sound good through my ears. It sounds to tinney and to overdriven. All of the other instruments sound fine. It almost sounds like I am overdriving the mic. Just wondering if you have any suggestions?? Thanks!

Chad is out on the road but I sent him this info and he replied back to me ....  As far as mic placement I agree with Chad.  I would try that first, long before I'd change tubes, especially the EF86 on the Stangray.  

Chad's reply:

I've never used the E609 before. To thicken the tone up I'd move the mic closer to the center of the cone. If it's overdriven check the gain level of the mic. Depending on what mic pre is... changing it out could warm up the tone as well. The Stangray has quite a bit of top end to it so it's easy to turn a brighter tone into 'tinney' and brittle.

Just from the information he gave that's a good starting place. You got any other thoughts just on mic placement? I'm sure you've got a tube suggestion as well but he I'm assuming he likes the sound of the amps as they sit.

[jlowder23]

Thanks so much Myles and Chad! I will try moving the mic some.

[Deleted]

I have a bunch of tubes I want tested. I think most of them are good tubes. They are mostly 12a_7 tubes. Some are 5AR4. And others are 6V6S or El84 tubes. I found a place that will test them. I was wondering if you think the prices and services look fair?

Here is a link to their testing service/prices:

Tube Testing Service

[myles]

Sept 22, 2013 23:23:16 GMT -7 @doc001 said:

I have a bunch of tubes I want tested. I think most of them are good tubes. They are mostly 12a_7 tubes. Some are 5AR4. And others are 6V6S or El84 tubes. I found a place that will test them. I was wondering if you think the prices and services look fair?

Here is a link to their testing service/prices:

Tube Testing Service

Those prices look very fair.  

Tube test gear is not cheap (the good stuff as they indicate here) and the education to actually know something about tubes at more than a basic level is even more expensive as it takes years.

This service looks pretty cool.

[Deleted]

Sept 23, 2013 10:53:45 GMT -7 myles said:

Sept 22, 2013 23:23:16 GMT -7 @doc001 said:

I have a bunch of tubes I want tested. I think most of them are good tubes. They are mostly 12a_7 tubes. Some are 5AR4. And others are 6V6S or El84 tubes. I found a place that will test them. I was wondering if you think the prices and services look fair?

Here is a link to their testing service/prices:

Tube Testing Service

Those prices look very fair.  

Tube test gear is not cheap (the good stuff as they indicate here) and the education to actually know something about tubes at more than a basic level is even more expensive as it takes years.

This service looks pretty cool.

Thank you, Myles. That is great news.

[myles]

I called these folks and talked to one of the owners at length. I typically don't get detailed info on products or service from websites.

Bottom line .... these folks are the real deal in regard to this service. As far as tube sales, I am not sure on prices as that is always changing but as far as this tube testing service they look great.

Thanks to doc001 for the initial question. It is great to know that somebody provides this sort of service that also know what they are doing.

[Deleted]

Sept 23, 2013 14:08:28 GMT -7 myles said:

I called these folks and talked to one of the owners at length. I typically don't get detailed info on products or service from websites.

Bottom line .... these folks are the real deal in regard to this service. As far as tube sales, I am not sure on prices as that is always changing but as far as this tube testing service they look great.

Thanks to doc001 for the initial question. It is great to know that somebody provides this sort of service that also know what they are doing.

It's nice to know there is someone out there providing this service. Thanks again, Myles!

[twangsta]

I gotta start building up a reserve of tubes. Always great info Myles.

I got a few questions Myles.

I've been using a bulky power stepdown from 230V to 110V since I didn't get the export model for my ghia. I'd like to do a conversion. I have two options regarding this. One us to swap out the transformer with an officially Dr.Z sourced transformer. The second is to rewind/convert the existing one by a reputed shop here.

Which would option would you recommend. The local rewind will be quicker and a lot cheaper. I could try the local option, and if I don't like it due to some reason I could that have no choice but get an official replacement?

The other question would be about me using a single TT Alnico 12" with my ghia. What would you recommend as a 1x12" better matched to the ghia? I'm interested in great ZZ Top brown sugar type tones

Thank Myles for listening.

[myles]

Procure a proper transformer. From Dr. Z Amps directly it would not be expensive and would be right. Rewinding a transformer rarely makes sense for any reason.

The Carmen Ghia loves just about any speaker. I can't think of any it does not like. Speaker choice is totally a matter of personal taste. I guess I could ask you what I should have for lunch today and it would be the same sort of question.

I love the Vox blue with a Ghia. If you mean Tone Tubby when you say TT those speakers are not one of my favorites. Hemp cones sound and feel as if they are restricted and make the amp feel constipated from my personal point of view but .... lots of folks love the companies products. Four of their speakers in a 4x12 Marshall cab driven by a 100 watt Plexi at max levels sounds ok but at lower settings I have the issue described above.

[twangsta]

Myles! Always an honest answer, thanks a ton. Much appreciated!

[Surreal McCoy]

Myles:

I have a Maz 38 1x12. Completely stock w a G12H and a Z-brake set at 2. At a sound check last week, I began strumming the guitar pretty hard and it was like the amp was clipping(?). There would be a brief pause, then the chord would sound from the amp. I had a plexitortion on at the time and the amp volume was a little higher than usual as we were outside. It was the tiniest/shortest pause, but it was there. Clipping is the only way I can describe it. I played the whole 3 hour show and didn't notice it when the band kicked in, but it was definitely there when I was by myself during sound check.

Thoughts?

Concerned in Traverse City

[myles]

Oct 6, 2013 5:50:33 GMT -7 Surreal McCoy said:

Myles:

I have a Maz 38 1x12. Completely stock w a G12H and a Z-brake set at 2. At a sound check last week, I began strumming the guitar pretty hard and it was like the amp was clipping(?). There would be a brief pause, then the chord would sound from the amp. I had a plexitortion on at the time and the amp volume was a little higher than usual as we were outside. It was the tiniest/shortest pause, but it was there. Clipping is the only way I can describe it. I played the whole 3 hour show and didn't notice it when the band kicked in, but it was definitely there when I was by myself during sound check.

Thoughts?

Concerned in Traverse City

You might have a dirty socket.  Pull each tube and put it back.  If you have some De-Oxit maybe clean the sockets and pots.

Also, when was the last time you changed your output tubes?

[Surreal McCoy]

I will grab some de-oxit and follow your directions. The tubes have been in there 6-7 years. The Maz sees about 80-100 hours a year. The Route 66 and the Ghia carry the rest of the load.