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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Apr 6, 2014 6:32:43 GMT -7
I was reading on an ad for another BFSR on ebay that said the caps? for the Phase inverter were changed as Maint to prevent that if failed would FRY the Transformer? WTH!!! Is this something I should be concerned with? How do I check this? where are they Located? My amp Circuits are all Original, minus 1 or 2 resistor looking items that look newer than others? My Super Sounds Fantastic , The only Mod I have done is the Most Common, Tremelo Disconnect, Tube driver for CH1 Removed, PLEASE HELP? I don't want to Damage one of the best amps I have. Thanks Jamie
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Post by Maddog on Apr 6, 2014 6:36:39 GMT -7
They probably meant the "Filter" caps. Extremely common maintenance, and would protect yer tranny should a 1967 Filter Cap short (unlikely, but possible).....
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Post by Maddog on Apr 6, 2014 6:39:46 GMT -7
OBTW, if yours (filter caps) have not been changed in the last 20 yrs, you need to change them. Keeps your power consistent and pure, and perks up a tired old amp a bit. They are located under a "Cap Can" on Super Reverb amps on the top side of the chassis with the trannies and tubes....(this pic is from my 58 bassman....in a super reverb, the caps will be mounted on a tag board attached to the chassis and covered with a similar but longer cap can).
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Post by Lefty on Apr 6, 2014 8:44:32 GMT -7
Filter caps make all the difference. It's an easy repair. Most of the time the symptom is noise or ghost notes. If you look at them and you see any leakage or bubbling, they need to be changed. Even if they are original they should be changed.
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Post by strat59 on Apr 6, 2014 13:03:38 GMT -7
Caution: Caps can knock your "vibrola" in your watch pocket. You probably already know they hold charge even if amp is off and unplugged.
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Post by zpilot on Apr 6, 2014 13:43:30 GMT -7
That's one of the first things I do when refurbing an amp. Having said that, I have a 1965 Twin Reverb that is dead stock except for the speakers and tubes. The filter caps still test good and the amp sounds fine so I have left them in the amp to preserve it's collector value. I don't gig the amp and it never leaves my house. Miracles happen. I don't recommenced anyone else do this. I'm just saying.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2014 15:27:22 GMT -7
Filter caps and a 3 prong cord. Vintage be damned!
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Post by wubberdubber on Apr 6, 2014 15:37:51 GMT -7
And filter caps actually benefit from being used (an electrical charge going through them)....leaving an amp stored for years without being turned on deteriorates them faster.
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Post by zpilot on Apr 6, 2014 21:16:15 GMT -7
Filter caps and a 3 prong cord. Vintage be damned! Yes, a grounded plug. I forgot about that. I won't even play through an old amp if that hasn't been done.
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Apr 9, 2014 19:39:21 GMT -7
I know they are original, I don't have any Issues, Noise/Hiss Ghost notes ETC... and it definitely doesn't sit "UNPLAYED" It sees more time than any of my amps. I has Unreal Tone. It sounds Great Clean and can be Pushed into such sweet sustain and nice big crunchy Chords that ring out for days. Can anyone tell me how to check these? I am aware they hold an electrical charge, How are they discharged? What is the Value suppose to be ? is it an ohms thing or Volatge Drop? Thanks for any help or suggestions Given, Jamie
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Apr 10, 2014 5:18:00 GMT -7
If you want them changed, get some help.
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Post by Maddog on Apr 10, 2014 5:43:06 GMT -7
I know they are original, I don't have any Issues, Noise/Hiss Ghost notes ETC... and it definitely doesn't sit "UNPLAYED" It sees more time than any of my amps. I has Unreal Tone. It sounds Great Clean and can be Pushed into such sweet sustain and nice big crunchy Chords that ring out for days. Can anyone tell me how to check these? I am aware they hold an electrical charge, How are they discharged? What is the Value suppose to be ? is it an ohms thing or Volatge Drop? Thanks for any help or suggestions Given, Jamie It's difficult to check them. When they're under a working load, they're dynamic, charging and discharging to keep currents stable. As they age, their tolerances drift, and some do not perform as quickly or as thoroughly as they should, which commonly gives you more voltage "sag" (that some people prefer). There is a classic story about the Fender Deluxe Reverb owner who (after the tech serviced the amp) took his amp back to the shop to get the old, worn out caps put back in. Most filter caps are replaced by savvy techs when the three-prong power cord conversion is done. There is a ubiquitous concern about an aged filter cap shorting out and taking out the heart of your vintage amp (your transformers). So, it's pretty much your call. I have two vintage '58 tweed bassman amps. One I re-capped the filters, the other I left alone. So, it's kind of a crap shoot. I'll probably redo my un-altered bassman some day. They always seem to sound a little better to me with new filter caps, plus there's the safety factor.... Good luck with your decision; be sure tho your amp tech (or you) leave ALL the other caps alone unless there's an obvious "issue" with them.... (You can drain the caps by grounding them to the chassis. You can also die doing this. Read all the warnings and be damned sure you know 100% what you're doing before diving in.... )
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Apr 10, 2014 5:59:33 GMT -7
(You can drain the caps by grounding them to the chassis. You can also die doing this. Read all the warnings and be damned sure you know 100% what you're doing before diving in.... ) I thought this needed emphasis...
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Post by zpilot on Apr 10, 2014 7:46:51 GMT -7
I know they are original, I don't have any Issues, Noise/Hiss Ghost notes ETC... and it definitely doesn't sit "UNPLAYED" It sees more time than any of my amps. I has Unreal Tone. It sounds Great Clean and can be Pushed into such sweet sustain and nice big crunchy Chords that ring out for days. Can anyone tell me how to check these? I am aware they hold an electrical charge, How are they discharged? What is the Value suppose to be ? is it an ohms thing or Volatge Drop? Thanks for any help or suggestions Given, Jamie I have an in-circuit ESR meter that I use to test filter caps so I don't have to desolder them. The company that made mine is no longer in business. You could probably have your filter caps changed for what it would cost to buy one though.
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Apr 13, 2014 9:09:42 GMT -7
IM TOTALLY aware of the dangers of the circuits, however if I decide to replace the caps I'll have someone else do it. I just was wanting to know if atom/Sprague ? what are the best components? I read that most people install NOS CarbonComp resistors etc... I don't want my BELOVED AMP to have just any old components. I traded a 64' DR for it and the only reason was because I was getting another All original BF Fender amp, I have used this amp way more than the deluxe I just couldn't get that tone I was after with the DR:(( Thanks for all the replies , keep them coming, Is there a way I can upload pics? I don't have a Photo Bucket ..... I don't see why I cant just upload to the forum?
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Post by Maddog on Apr 13, 2014 9:36:42 GMT -7
You have to get a secondary photo hosting site to post pix on this forum. None of the members pix you see on this forum were direct uploads. Its very easy and there are tutorials on the ztalk menu to help. If i can do it............
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Apr 21, 2014 21:25:43 GMT -7
I have emailed Fellow forum member Albert some pics of my BELOVED 67' SR Chassis and the Filter Caps, Now I'm really freaked out, They are Original, Can anyone tell me how to measure the output voltages? I could at least Check them and ease my mind or take it to the tech who I will allow to perform the Job and replace those dudes,
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Post by zpilot on Apr 21, 2014 21:56:19 GMT -7
If they are original it would probably be best to go ahead and have them changed. While you are at it have the tech change all of the electrolytic caps. If your amp has the blue poly caps, leave them alone. They are probably still good and I've always liked them. Don't forget the bias supply cap.
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Apr 21, 2014 22:04:31 GMT -7
I sent al the pics of the top and bottom Yes the Blue ones are there , It appears to me that only 2 small caps have been replaced, I'd like to leave it as is other than the Original Mallory Filter Caps we have been discussing
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Post by Albert on Apr 22, 2014 6:17:50 GMT -7
I sent al the pics of the top and bottom Yes the Blue ones are there , It appears to me that only 2 small caps have been replaced, I'd like to leave it as is other than the Original Mallory Filter Caps we have been discussing Jamie here are the pics Would be interested in seeing a pic of the side view of these caps ...regardless I would change them .. If you want Mallory Filter Caps that is your preference. ..
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Post by Lefty on Apr 22, 2014 12:56:40 GMT -7
The blues, unless ruptured, or known bad can stay. The one's under the dog house should go.
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Post by zpilot on Apr 22, 2014 13:04:32 GMT -7
Your tech should know all of this but you should point out this to him anyway. The caps inside the chassis that need to go are the two black bypass caps (actually two caps in one case), that one big brown one in the center, the silver decoupling cap, and the one over by the bias pot (not shown in the photo).
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on May 4, 2014 17:17:10 GMT -7
So, I haven't pulled the TRIGGER on Doing a CAP JOB, However the GOOD DRZ, MR ZAITE suggested F&T Caps, Made from Germany? I trust his opinion just about like PACK IT UP< "I'll TAKE IT" I guess Sprauge and several others are just as good? He also informed me that Mallory is No Longer in Business, When you make a Product that lasts over 40 plus Years I guess that's what Happens. It makes me wander about My SRZ Amp , Its pushing oh....... 18 years old, still sounds KILLER!!! Any other Fender guys out there that can make any other suggestions , Im all ears thanks to all who have added to this thread, been very helpful, I was told that to release the charge on the caps it would be required to place some type of resistor across the cap to safely bleed off? Is this accurate? If So What kind or resistor? Im gonna have a tech do mine but just for general 411, thanks jamie
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Post by zpilot on May 5, 2014 4:47:05 GMT -7
It's been a long time since I made my bleeder/jumper and it's covered with shrink wrap but I believe I used a 10K/2 watt resistor. It doesn't matter if it is metal film or carbon comp or whatever.
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