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Post by username on Jun 16, 2006 11:23:30 GMT -7
Its all youz guys fault...
after reading the threats here and experimenting with NOS tubes in my Maz 38, with great tone enhancing results...
I have gone to the next step.....speakers
I order an 8 ohm Tonkor and Beam Blocker from Weber...
having said that..
Whats involved in speaker swapping?..
unhook wires/unscrew the original speaker and repeat the process, but in reverse...sounds to easy
"speakers are the single most important component in an amp".
...DR Z
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Post by username on Jun 16, 2006 11:25:13 GMT -7
oopps I meant.to say...
after reading all the "threads" here ....not threats..lol!
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Post by kruzty on Jun 16, 2006 11:31:22 GMT -7
oopps I meant.to say... after reading all the "threads" here ....not threats..lol! Yeah, you better try some other tubes and speakers - OR ELSE!!!
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Post by billyguitar on Jun 16, 2006 11:58:32 GMT -7
Speaker swapping is very easy even if you've never done it before. Draw a little picture so you can remember which wire goes on the + terminal and which goes on the - terminal. Be very careful putting the new speaker on the studs sticking out of the baffle board, you don't want to puncture the cone. Tighten the nuts snug but don't tighten them so much you bend the frame. Be gentle with the push on connectors so you don't bend the tabs too much or break them. Then when you're done don't play real loud right away, give the speaker time to break in before you totally rock out.
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Post by username on Jun 16, 2006 12:06:31 GMT -7
thanx billy, will do.. kruzty...
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Jun 16, 2006 13:50:06 GMT -7
Speaker swapping is very easy even if you've never done it before. Draw a little picture so you can remember which wire goes on the + terminal and which goes on the - terminal. Be very careful putting the new speaker on the studs sticking out of the baffle board, you don't want to puncture the cone. Tighten the nuts snug but don't tighten them so much you bend the frame. Be gentle with the push on connectors so you don't bend the tabs too much or break them. Then when you're done don't play real loud right away, give the speaker time to break in before you totally rock out. Hey Billy, they haven't had studs sticking out of the baffle board since Massey-Furgeson stopped making cabs back on ought-two. These days it just takes a regular ol' screw into a T-Nut...
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Post by billyguitar on Jun 16, 2006 15:21:49 GMT -7
My old steam powered amps are all that way. Man, I hate waiting for the boiler to build up a head so I can spank the plank! My bad! My little old tired memory cells can't access how I changed the speaker in my Maz 38. I played last nite and 5 hours of sleep doesn't help in this situation. Screws and T-nuts is much safer for the speakers so at least guys now don't have to suffer the agony of poking the cone on those pointy screws like I have.
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Jun 16, 2006 15:25:51 GMT -7
My old steam powered amps are all that way. Man, I hate waiting for the boiler to build up a head so I can spank the plank! My bad! My little old tired memory cells can't access how I changed the speaker in my Maz 38. I played last nite and 5 hours of sleep doesn't help in this situation. Screws and T-nuts is much safer for the speakers so at least guys now don't have to suffer the agony of poking the cone on those pointy screws like I have. Yeah, I heard the steam powered amps all sound ten times better though..
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Post by foxx on Jun 16, 2006 16:57:34 GMT -7
what kind of fire do those steam amps run on? And do they have a whistle?
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Post by billyguitar on Jun 16, 2006 17:36:32 GMT -7
Hedge and old Christmas trees burn the hottest. One good thing about my old steam powered amps is the Caliope man can hook his pipes right on my boiler then he doesn't have to bring his own boiler. When we'd blow the old speakers we used to cut our new cones out of bear skins using our stone knives. Those were the good old days...............
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