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Post by bubs42 on Dec 21, 2008 20:43:11 GMT -7
What's the differance soundwise between them and the El34. I have a set of these coming as well. I going to have alot of time with this amp. Since I'm parting with my Mesa. So I asked if I could set in when I have my amp Biased so we could try some things out. I'm waiting back. It probly would have been a no brainer if I would have bought all my tubes from the Local Shop.
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Dec 21, 2008 22:26:43 GMT -7
I know Carl Verheyen changed his to KT77's and that's what he uses exclusively with his SRZ-65. Myles has reported on that numerous times. I've had a plan to get some for quite a while, to check out in my SRZ but haven't ever pulled the trigger. One of these days I'll get 'er done...
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Post by bubs42 on Dec 22, 2008 4:12:05 GMT -7
Well I've got a set coming. A friend on another board had a pair for $20, so I bought them.
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Post by Phil (aka Phil) on Dec 22, 2008 7:54:49 GMT -7
I've used GT EL34LS #6, NOS Tesla EL34's and a pair of JJ KT77's in my SRZ LE. I like the 77's but I'm probably going to go back to the 34's. They're all good but different. The EL34LS's and Teslas both sound like what you think of when someone says "EL34"; crunchy on top, that distinctive midrange and bottom. The Teslas have a more complex mid, and are a little "softer" tube than the LS. The LS has a little harder, more powerful feel, and is a little more "brittle" on top. The KT77's have a huge lower midrange chunk, and have an extended high end that's still not as "brittle" as the LS's.
I think for just normal "EL34" playing in an amp like the SRZ I might prefer the LS's, as I like a "harder" amp overall for my playing style (hence my use of a SS rectifier in my KT45). The Teslas are a pretty cool tube though, so I may mess with both of 'em again. The more refined high end makes bridge pickups sound great.
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Post by bubs42 on Dec 22, 2008 17:48:38 GMT -7
I'm running the LS's in another amp and they work wonders with a Single Coil bridge Pup IMHO. Thanks for the info.
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Post by myles on Jan 6, 2009 17:22:38 GMT -7
Carl had KT77s in both his amps but now the amp that stays in Europe has the KT77s and the USA amp has E34LS #7s. The 77s have more mids as mentioned above. Since Carl's rigs are different on each side of the pond we fine tuned the SRZ-65 in each case as that is the foundation of his multi amp rig. In the states the clean tones are from a BF 64 Twin Reverb and a Vox AC-30 used together. In Europe there is a VibroKing at times with a Voxish Framus amp or two so the extra mids on the KT77s in the Europe rig help compensate for the lack of mid lows on the Framus amps. I also have different V1, V2 and phase inverters in each amp. I prefer EL34 type tubes as they are the classic vintage rock tones ala a great Marshall but that is just my own personal preference and nothing more than my own preference There is no right or wrong.
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Post by bubs42 on Jan 6, 2009 20:31:07 GMT -7
Thanks again Myles. I did purchase a set and will look forward to swapping them once my SRZ is up and going. The tech picked it up today and I should here from him in a day or two.
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billy7
Junior Member
Dr Z rocks
Posts: 54
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Post by billy7 on Jan 8, 2009 1:01:25 GMT -7
The KT77's sound like something I may try.
What are you guys setting the bias at when you put the KT77's in?
Billy11
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Post by zburst on Feb 8, 2009 0:09:13 GMT -7
I have an SRZ that's a couple years old with E34Ls and a ss rectifier and a new black SRZ that came with Genelex kt77 Golden Lions and it has a tube rectifier. They both sound phenomenal, however, now the new head with the kt77s is getting more use because the bass just pumps very tight and the highs seem so glorious and chimey!!
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Post by bubs42 on Feb 15, 2009 9:52:13 GMT -7
Sent you a PM.. ;D
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Oct 8, 2009 12:30:01 GMT -7
The SRZ with a SS rectifier ?? Is this an aftermarket item that you can get? A friend of mine has this item on an old Fender, He says it tends to be less spongy>?? Tighter Attack? I don't understand, all my amps are GZ34 or equivelant 5R4? Your response is appreciated, Iv'e always wandered about using the 77's but, don't want to ruin my EL 34 sound, i guess since there's no biasing it wouldn't hurt to try them? Thanks
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Post by bubs42 on Oct 11, 2009 18:06:20 GMT -7
I have a set of 77 that I didn't use in my SRZ, pm me and you can have them. As for the SS I didn't one because everyone here is in agreement that makes the bass tighter but it also makes the amp louder. The SRZ needs no help in that department.
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Oct 12, 2009 6:28:48 GMT -7
The SRZ with a SS rectifier ?? Is this an aftermarket item that you can get? A friend of mine has this item on an old Fender, He says it tends to be less spongy>?? Tighter Attack? I don't understand, all my amps are GZ34 or equivelant 5R4? Your response is appreciated, Iv'e always wandered about using the 77's but, don't want to ruin my EL 34 sound, i guess since there's no biasing it wouldn't hurt to try them? Thanks You need to check the bias any time you replace the power tubes in the SRZ. It's a class A/B power amp with fixed bias - needs adjustment when new power tubes are installed. If you don't set it, you risk blowing a perfectly good tube, or a component in your amp.
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Oct 12, 2009 16:15:33 GMT -7
Benttop, I have owned My SRZ for 7 years now I have changed the tubes Twice and I have never biased the amp. There is not a bias adjustment pot on the chassis> ?? If so? Could you PLEASE tell me where??? I understand the Bias importance because I have a fender Super Reverb. I was always under the impression that the SRZ was a Class A amp. WOW! Now you have me Paranoid, I'm gonna tear into it when I get back from wally world with the wife. Thanks for the 411
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Oct 12, 2009 17:41:25 GMT -7
Benttop, I have owned My SRZ for 7 years now I have changed the tubes Twice and I have never biased the amp. There is not a bias adjustment pot on the chassis> ?? If so? Could you PLEASE tell me where??? I understand the Bias importance because I have a fender Super Reverb. I was always under the impression that the SRZ was a Class A amp. WOW! Now you have me Paranoid, I'm gonna tear into it when I get back from wally world with the wife. Thanks for the 411 I'm fairly certain it is fixed bias. Somewhere, I found biasing info to include on my spec sheet (click Amp Specs in my signature). I'll never forget when I got my THD Flexi-50. That amp has bias test points on the back of the chassis, and the two bias pots are also accessible there. That facilitated easy bias adjustments as you changed tubes. The first half hour of ownership, I had an EL-34 short out, so the amp was down. I really wanted to play it though, so while I was waiting for a replacement from THD, I pulled the two EL-34's from one of my Rivera amps. Same exact tube, and coinidentally, same manufacture. I popped them in there, and was about to play, but decided to check the bias. I was stunned to find they were running at about 80 mA - WAY over spec. If I had just played, it might have been the end of those tubes as well. The one original EL-34 measured 25 mA when I put it back in there, so I'm certain the tubes were all just performing differently. Can't overemphasize it enough - you need to check the bias every time you change the power tubes on the SRZ. If anyone here knows different, I really need to hear from you...
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Oct 12, 2009 19:30:23 GMT -7
I pulled the Chassis out and there is a bias pot there. You are so right, I am so thankful that you pointed that out, I just put a brand new, well NOS TUNG SOL EL34B in and it sounds great! They were both matched at 26 The thing is, This pot is not accessible , you literally have to remove the chassis and turn it upside down which makes it almost a two person job. Or a one trained LOL! person job. I bought the amp from the original owner and never received the manual. I was suppose to get that but, you know how Ebay can be. Also being that my SRZ is a 96' model, I wonder if the circuit design for the new LE are the same. Maybe I should contact someone who knows or if you could get me in that general direction it would be much appreciated. The tubes before this last change went three years! Yes that was Three years. I've always been told if you don't notice a drastic change in tone don't mess with them. However When the new tubes went in! It was like oh WOW! It was overdue. I gig very regularly and really dont want a failure, Safe than sorry is my thinking. Thanks!
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Post by benttop (Steve) on Oct 12, 2009 20:06:14 GMT -7
I've seen it suggested here that 36 to 38 mA is right, but I must confess that I cannot seem to turn up any corroborating evidence to that effect...
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Post by The Fifth Column on Oct 20, 2009 13:06:10 GMT -7
I pulled the Chassis out and there is a bias pot there. You are so right, I am so thankful that you pointed that out, I just put a brand new, well NOS TUNG SOL EL34B in and it sounds great! They were both matched at 26 The thing is, This pot is not accessible , you literally have to remove the chassis and turn it upside down which makes it almost a two person job. Or a one trained LOL! person job. Not sure if this will help, if this is the best way to do this or how real techs do it, but when I tweak the bias on either my SRZ or my 66, I make like a little resting platform or cradle out of wood (I use a couple of 2x4s or something similar) for it to rest on... on it's side, like with the knobs pointed down. That way I can sit it like that, but the transformers are supported so it's stable and supported from multiple points. Then I don't have to worry about it falling over or having it slip while I'm tweaking the pot. It's still helpful to have a second person around just in case, but setup right I can do it myself too. Plus, because it's wood, it's not going to short or anything like that. Again, I'm not sure if it's the best way, but it has worked for me in the past and thought I'd pass along some advice. Maybe someone else has a better setup?
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Post by muzacman02 "Jamie" on Oct 20, 2009 18:56:01 GMT -7
I found it to be a chore bymyself, but I did come up with a way to keep the tubes from being smashed, the chassis supported. I like the 2x4 idea and the next time I bias, change tubes gonna go that route, Thanks for the input!
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