frank9310
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Post by frank9310 on Oct 28, 2007 9:13:55 GMT -7
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Post by myles on Oct 28, 2007 14:43:47 GMT -7
These work great in the Route 66. One correction though on the tubestore KT66 writeup .... they say the heater current is 1.4 amps I believe.... it is actually 1.27 amps. Not anything to worry about (an EL34 is 1.5 amps by the way) but any amp with a good power transformer in proper working order would have no issue here and already has a lot of reserve capacity in the heater winding.
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frank9310
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Post by frank9310 on Oct 28, 2007 18:15:52 GMT -7
Thanks Myles! I did find another post where somone tried the Chines KT66C and the SHuguangs and said the Suguangs sounded richer. I'm not sure what my 66 needs. It seems to maybe have too much sag or not enough something. It will hold a note and sustain and other times it sounds like it's going to sustain using a Fulltone '69 fuzz then it just dies out and the note falls flat. I've tried several brands of preamp tubes from JJ's new gold pin ecc83 to the GT Mullard re-issues 12ax7m. Amp sounds fantastic but sometimes it seems to sound really clean till it blooms into a sustain and sometimes it sustains forever and other times the note just falls flat unless I position myself a certian why on an angle towards the speaker. Forget using a Hot Plate. I can crank up the fuzz on full and amp on full and it won't sustain unless I use an overdrive like the Fulltone GT-500 but naturally using just a fuzz it won't hold a long sustaining note unless the speakers are being pushed hard. I have the JJ KT66 tubes biased at 36ma with a new JJ EF806 (ef86) + JJ GZ34 rectifier. Any tips on biasing, tubes, etc. much appreciated.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2007 20:32:40 GMT -7
DRZ also recommends a bias no higher than 40mA per tube.
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Post by dixiechicken on Oct 29, 2007 5:57:33 GMT -7
Below is what Doc told me about biasing my Route66!
He also said to stay below 40mA idle current.
Cheers: Dixiechicken
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Post by myles on Oct 29, 2007 9:11:22 GMT -7
Thanks Myles! I did find another post where somone tried the Chines KT66C and the SHuguangs and said the Suguangs sounded richer. I'm not sure what my 66 needs. It seems to maybe have too much sag or not enough something. It will hold a note and sustain and other times it sounds like it's going to sustain using a Fulltone '69 fuzz then it just dies out and the note falls flat. I've tried several brands of preamp tubes from JJ's new gold pin ecc83 to the GT Mullard re-issues 12ax7m. Amp sounds fantastic but sometimes it seems to sound really clean till it blooms into a sustain and sometimes it sustains forever and other times the note just falls flat unless I position myself a certian why on an angle towards the speaker. Forget using a Hot Plate. I can crank up the fuzz on full and amp on full and it won't sustain unless I use an overdrive like the Fulltone GT-500 but naturally using just a fuzz it won't hold a long sustaining note unless the speakers are being pushed hard. I have the JJ KT66 tubes biased at 36ma with a new JJ EF806 (ef86) + JJ GZ34 rectifier. Any tips on biasing, tubes, etc. much appreciated. You are having the classic issues of an unbalanced output section. If you have a bias tool or bias probe what is the reading on each of the output tubes in millamps? If you have a scope and can run a 1k signal into the amp do the upper and lower waveform match?
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Post by dixiechicken on Oct 29, 2007 11:34:02 GMT -7
Weber Biasrite is good tool to use - while following Myles advice..
Be careful when you remove the KT66 tubes from their sockets - I broke the the plastic center-post guide pin on the original Groove Tubes while removing them when I was going to bias the NOS GEC tubes.
The tube still works - no problem I just have to be very careful now - to align it up into the proper slots with the pins.
Try to remove the tubes straight up - if you wiggle too much - I probably did - you may break the guide post.
Cheers: Dixiechicken
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frank9310
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Post by frank9310 on Oct 29, 2007 14:24:36 GMT -7
Thanks Myles! I'm going to use the Eureotubes bias tool to see. I had it biased from an amp tech but I think last time I tried to read the bias with the Eurotpools bias tool I couldn't get any reading set at the recommended DCA setting.
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frank9310
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Now dig this baby...
Posts: 146
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Post by frank9310 on Oct 29, 2007 18:07:04 GMT -7
Hey Guys, I used the Eurotubes Bias Tool and one tube read 31.6ma and the other 34.6ma so I set the one that was 31.6 to 35.5 and that made the other one jump to 37.5ma. So now it's one side 35.5ma abnd the other 37.5ma. Seems a little warmer now. Funny how it will hold infinite notes on certain frets and others still just fall flat using the Fulltone '69 Fuzz. It definitely has more sustain though on the ones that do sustain. Must be the nature of the natural tone beast! Just have to find and play around those sweet spots! Overall, the tone is just beautiful!!!
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Post by dixiechicken on Oct 30, 2007 3:42:39 GMT -7
Doesn't sound quite right to me - unless your guitar has these "sweet spots" - resonance points - maybe together with the cab you're using. I don't experience this with my setup - I think - I'll get a chance at tonights rehearsal to check that out a bit more. (YMMV ) Cheers: Dixiechicken
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Post by iggs on Oct 30, 2007 7:07:41 GMT -7
Hey Guys, I used the Eurotubes Bias Tool and one tube read 31.6ma and the other 34.6ma so I set the one that was 31.6 to 35.5 and that made the other one jump to 37.5ma. So now it's one side 35.5ma abnd the other 37.5ma. Seems a little warmer now. Funny how it will hold infinite notes on certain frets and others still just fall flat using the Fulltone '69 Fuzz. It definitely has more sustain though on the ones that do sustain. Must be the nature of the natural tone beast! Just have to find and play around those sweet spots! Overall, the tone is just beautiful!!! I'd say that's an issue with the guitar and not the amp. Maybe your frets are uneven, not enough relief, rise in tongue, warped neck ... etc. I'd take the guitar to a shop and have it checked.
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Post by dixiechicken on Oct 30, 2007 15:08:06 GMT -7
"frank9310" - DC here! Both me and "iggs" seem to agree that something is not quite right for you. Just got back from tonights rehearsal ( full band with horns ) - I don't have your issue at all. ( altough I have a connector that needs re-soldering on one of my guitar cables ) Good news for us if not maybe for you - sorry not to be more helpful. Cheers: Dixiechicken!
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Post by myles on Oct 30, 2007 15:20:51 GMT -7
Weber Biasrite is good tool to use - while following Myles advice.. Be careful when you remove the KT66 tubes from their sockets - I broke the the plastic center-post guide pin on the original Groove Tubes while removing them when I was going to bias the NOS GEC tubes. The tube still works - no problem I just have to be very careful now - to align it up into the proper slots with the pins. Try to remove the tubes straight up - if you wiggle too much - I probably did - you may break the guide post. Cheers: Dixiechicken You can go to www.tubesandmore.com and they have little kits for about a buck to replace the locator pin. Second tip on KT66s .... if the base comes loose from the bottle (no worry as the base has nothing to do with the vacuum) ... a dab or two of superglue where the bottle goes into the base will fix things for ever.
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Post by dixiechicken on Oct 31, 2007 5:40:42 GMT -7
Thanks for the info "Myles". One more bookmark to add to the collection. ;D
Cheers: Dixiechicken!
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Post by myles on Oct 31, 2007 10:12:05 GMT -7
Thanks for the info "Myles". One more bookmark to add to the collection. ;D Cheers: Dixiechicken! They have tons of great stuff from light bulbs to books ... speakers, parts, etc.
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frank9310
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Posts: 146
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Post by frank9310 on Nov 1, 2007 4:32:10 GMT -7
DC & IGGS, Thanks for the info! I think it's a combination of not havifgthe master volume up high enough. IGGS mentioned about the resonance points. Could those points change with the relief changed?
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Post by dixiechicken on Nov 1, 2007 6:07:23 GMT -7
DC here!
Well I'd say yes - because your guitar is a mechanical vibrating system - with certain mechanical impedance if you will. You give extra energy to the system by hitting the strings - setting them in vibration.
When you change the relief of the neck you will change the stiffnes of the neck somewhat - this will change the way the energy gets absorbed used in this system. Albeit perhaps very little. YMMV.
Cheers: Dixiechicken
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frank9310
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Posts: 146
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Post by frank9310 on Nov 2, 2007 15:22:38 GMT -7
Hmm Verrrrry Interesting as Klink would say!
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