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Post by lsvgshensel on Jun 26, 2008 12:07:23 GMT -7
I have a question about my brand new MAZ 38 W/Reverb. When I turn up the reverb on my amp I pick up a radio station. The more reverb I dial in the louder the radio gets. Any help would be appreciated. I dont know wether I need to add a ferite coil to the reverb line or maybe some kind of voltage processor where I plug in?
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Post by myles on Jun 26, 2008 12:56:17 GMT -7
I have a question about my brand new MAZ 38 W/Reverb. When I turn up the reverb on my amp I pick up a radio station. The more reverb I dial in the louder the radio gets. Any help would be appreciated. I dont know wether I need to add a ferite coil to the reverb line or maybe some kind of voltage processor where I plug in? Have you tried moving the amp to a different location where the electrical power does not share your ground?
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Post by robbz on Jun 28, 2008 11:06:14 GMT -7
Hey again Myles, just a quick question re power stage tube life mate...
I have a Maz Sr head that I have done about 35 gigs with over the last 9 weeks. The gigs that I have done with it have all been 3 sets at 45-55 mins per set and the amp stays on stand-by in the breaks. I run the amp quite hard (MV 12-1 o clock, V 2 o'clock) and use an Air Brake when required. The amp was brand new 9 weeks ago and shipped to me here in Australia with the 240v transformer anf GT EL84s tubes straight from Z via a retailer. I have also done a couple of rehearsals with it and 4-5 sessions. Given that the amp has been played at volume for at least 100 hours, and given typical life expectancy of those tubes, should I be looking at getting a new set soon?
Thanks... Robb
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Post by myles on Jun 28, 2008 18:19:45 GMT -7
Hey again Myles, just a quick question re power stage tube life mate... I have a Maz Sr head that I have done about 35 gigs with over the last 9 weeks. The gigs that I have done with it have all been 3 sets at 45-55 mins per set and the amp stays on stand-by in the breaks. I run the amp quite hard (MV 12-1 o clock, V 2 o'clock) and use an Air Brake when required. The amp was brand new 9 weeks ago and shipped to me here in Australia with the 240v transformer anf GT EL84s tubes straight from Z via a retailer. I have also done a couple of rehearsals with it and 4-5 sessions. Given that the amp has been played at volume for at least 100 hours, and given typical life expectancy of those tubes, should I be looking at getting a new set soon? Thanks... Robb Robb, It really depends on your own ears. I have some clients that notice a change after 10 shows or about 30 hours. I have other clients that can go six months of heavy touring and find things sound fine to them until they install a new output set and realize how much things have changed. This is something you will have to determing yourself and it is actually pretty easy. Put in a new set of output tubes and ask yourself ... did it make a big enough difference that you want to install a new set in this amount of time or perhaps shorten the time between sets.
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Post by robbz on Jun 29, 2008 0:49:22 GMT -7
Thanks Myles... Maybe Im dreaming but it seems I have lost a little volume in the last 3-4 gigs... I will get some new tubes..
Thanks again.
Robb
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Post by myles on Jun 29, 2008 10:26:12 GMT -7
Thanks Myles... Maybe Im dreaming but it seems I have lost a little volume in the last 3-4 gigs... I will get some new tubes.. Thanks again. Robb Robb, When you put in a new set you will probably realize that you have lost a lot more than a little volume. Unlike light bulbs that just stop working vacuum tubes can either fail, or in most cases just get weaker and weaker over time, loose other qualities as well, and just degrade in all aspects of tone, sustain, response and articulation.
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Post by robbz on Jun 30, 2008 7:09:46 GMT -7
Cheers Myles, I know what you mean, I start most gigs with the Air Brake on 1 or 2 clicks attenuated but by the 2nd set I have it at zero... So when I say it has lost a little volume, I mean it has lost volume, clarity, sparkle and projection... Even though it doesnt sound bad it just doesnt sound as healthy as a couple of weeks ago... Thanks again mate.
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Post by myles on Jun 30, 2008 8:52:04 GMT -7
Cheers Myles, I know what you mean, I start most gigs with the Air Brake on 1 or 2 clicks attenuated but by the 2nd set I have it at zero... So when I say it has lost a little volume, I mean it has lost volume, clarity, sparkle and projection... Even though it doesnt sound bad it just doesnt sound as healthy as a couple of weeks ago... Thanks again mate. You are welcome.
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Post by amishengine on Jul 2, 2008 12:40:19 GMT -7
I've got a mid 90's Prescription Rx that I've been having some trouble with in the last few weeks. She breaks up at unbelievably low volumes ... as in 0.25 and lower, depending on which guitar I'm using ... and it's not a pretty break-up - muddy and lifeless. I replaced all the power tubes, and swapped the rectifier and pre-amp tubes one by one, checking the amp between each swap ... no change. I've run the head through several cabs ... same story. I had all of the circuits checked and everything matches up to specs ... Help!
-Micah
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Post by myles on Jul 2, 2008 12:42:02 GMT -7
I've got a mid 90's Prescription Rx that I've been having some trouble with in the last few weeks. She breaks up at unbelievably low volumes ... as in 0.25 and lower, depending on which guitar I'm using ... and it's not a pretty break-up - muddy and lifeless. I replaced all the power tubes, and swapped the rectifier and pre-amp tubes one by one, checking the amp between each swap ... no change. I've run the head through several cabs ... same story. I had all of the circuits checked and everything matches up to specs ... Help! -Micah If you replaced all the tubes it is time to measure voltages and this is a job for a tech.
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Post by awesome on Jul 5, 2008 12:49:07 GMT -7
hey myles,
i was wondering when GT starting offering the "European" EL-84?
and when it starts to distort is it much smoother and more pleasant sounding than the Russian EL-84?
the ones (not sure which make, probably russian) i have in my RXES sound horrible on chords but sing on leads or single note runs. probably need to be changed anyways.
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Post by myles on Jul 5, 2008 14:24:23 GMT -7
hey myles, i was wondering when GT starting offering the "European" EL-84? and when it starts to distort is it much smoother and more pleasant sounding than the Russian EL-84? the ones (not sure which make, probably russian) i have in my RXES sound horrible on chords but sing on leads or single note runs. probably need to be changed anyways. GT had the Tesla and Ei for decades and the JJ ever since Tesla died. Many of those comments on the GT website are quite out of date by the way. The Russian (EL84R) Sovtek tube to my ears is dark, inarticulate, and just awful but that is my own personal observation.
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Post by guitarbob on Jul 14, 2008 12:17:15 GMT -7
Hello. I recently bought a Carmen Ghia head. I believe it's an 02', serial number starts with an L. Anyway, I love the tone but not sure I'm getting the volume I should. Running through a closed back Avatar 2x12 with 1 V-30, and 1 Greenback. I'm running wide open, and by the end of the night (as everyone gets louder) I am just not at the level I need to be without miking the cab.
For comparison sake, I've used a Crate Vintage Club 15 or 20 watt amp through a closed back 1x12 with a V-30 some and a Blues Jr. some but never had the volume issue. Am I expecting too much and just need to mike the amp, or could I possibly have a problem?
Thanks, Bob
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Post by myles on Jul 14, 2008 15:17:21 GMT -7
Hello. I recently bought a Carmen Ghia head. I believe it's an 02', serial number starts with an L. Anyway, I love the tone but not sure I'm getting the volume I should. Running through a closed back Avatar 2x12 with 1 V-30, and 1 Greenback. I'm running wide open, and by the end of the night (as everyone gets louder) I am just not at the level I need to be without miking the cab. For comparison sake, I've used a Crate Vintage Club 15 or 20 watt amp through a closed back 1x12 with a V-30 some and a Blues Jr. some but never had the volume issue. Am I expecting too much and just need to mike the amp, or could I possibly have a problem? Thanks, Bob Bob, What output tubes are in the amp and how many hours are on them?
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Post by guitarbob on Jul 14, 2008 15:48:13 GMT -7
Will have to check later tonight to see which tubes it has, but the guy said less than 75 hours on the amp. So, I don't know if the tubes are original. Will get back to you tonight.
Thanks
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Post by myles on Jul 14, 2008 16:59:49 GMT -7
Will have to check later tonight to see which tubes it has, but the guy said less than 75 hours on the amp. So, I don't know if the tubes are original. Will get back to you tonight. Thanks An amp of that age with 75 hours ... sounds like a number pulled out of the hat to me.
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Post by guitarbob on Jul 14, 2008 17:22:13 GMT -7
Yeah, he said it was strictly a studio amp, and it is in pristine condition but I know what you're saying. Anyway the tubes are Groove Tubes GTEL84S. Do you think I should try replacing all of the tubes?
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Post by myles on Jul 14, 2008 18:20:57 GMT -7
Yeah, he said it was strictly a studio amp, and it is in pristine condition but I know what you're saying. Anyway the tubes are Groove Tubes GTEL84S. Do you think I should try replacing all of the tubes? Not all of them .... make sure though that there is a 12AX7 in V1 and a 5751 in V2 .... and if that is not the case then make it so. Verify the rectifier is a 5Y3. Also replace the EL84 output tubes so we know where we stand for sure.... EL84S in a #6 rating or call over to www.tubesandmore.com which is Antique Electric Supply ... ask for Steve Martin and once you get Steve ... and only Steve, tell him you need a duet of JJ EL84 with a number between 30 and 35 off their machine. 480.820.5411 is their phone number. A matched duet is $21.50 vs $50.00 for the GT variant.
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Post by guitarbob on Jul 14, 2008 18:32:10 GMT -7
Thanks a million, Myles. There is a sovtek 5YC in the rectifier spot. I'll give Steve a call tomorrow, and let you know how things turn out.
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Post by myles on Jul 14, 2008 19:12:58 GMT -7
Thanks a million, Myles. There is a sovtek 5YC in the rectifier spot. I'll give Steve a call tomorrow, and let you know how things turn out. Get rid of that Sovtek rectifier ... does not spec properly and very unreliable. Get one of these NOS USA GE .... only $18 from Mike at KCA - www.kcanostubes.com/products/167/NOS-GE-5Y3GT.htm .... much more reliable, proper specs and will last forever unless you break it. When you call Steve tell him Myles Rose said hello ... On Mike you don't have to say hello as I talk to him constantly ... Mike also has a duet of the JJ's for $22 if you want to do the one stop shopping sort of deal. Tell Mike you want a mid range EL84 JJ if you go to him, he will know what I mean.
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Post by guitarbob on Jul 14, 2008 19:22:44 GMT -7
Will do. Thanks again Myles!
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Post by myles on Jul 15, 2008 7:40:46 GMT -7
Will do. Thanks again Myles! You are very welcome.
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slunky
Full Member
I got a Halloween head
Posts: 172
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Post by slunky on Jul 15, 2008 9:33:41 GMT -7
Myles,
I have a Maz Jr NR head. Bought a set of tubes off Mike. Swapped out the JJ's with the TadEL84's and bough a set of NOS Jan/GE 5751's.
Anyways. Both of the 5751's have balanced triodes. Is there a specific spot I should put these puppies, or should I try a few options (ie: v1 and v3, v1 and v2, etc)
I am experimenting with various tubes and wasn't sure if there was an optimal spot for these guys. The other tube in the set is the GT 12ax7.
Thanks, brother!
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Post by myles on Jul 15, 2008 10:29:32 GMT -7
Myles, I have a Maz Jr NR head. Bought a set of tubes off Mike. Swapped out the JJ's with the TadEL84's and bough a set of NOS Jan/GE 5751's. Anyways. Both of the 5751's have balanced triodes. Is there a specific spot I should put these puppies, or should I try a few options (ie: v1 and v3, v1 and v2, etc) I am experimenting with various tubes and wasn't sure if there was an optimal spot for these guys. The other tube in the set is the GT 12ax7. Thanks, brother! The only place where a matched triode will be of any benefit is in the phase inverter. In all other positions the two sides of the tube have unrelated functions and are used as two seperate tubes. In a reverb driver the two sides are summed unlike a phase inverter so there is no need for a balanced tube in the reverb driver position other than if a tube is too imbalanced in the reverb driver you will get more hum in the reverb.
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slunky
Full Member
I got a Halloween head
Posts: 172
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Post by slunky on Jul 15, 2008 10:56:35 GMT -7
I'll keep the matched triode in v3. I have the non reverb model, so no problem there. Is the other 5751 (being matched as well) best suited in the v1 or v2. Or should I pull it and just have the two 12ax7s back in seeing as how it (5751) is also matched? Or is this all up to my ears?
Thanks, Myles..your help is immeasurable.
btw...we need and amp show in Nashville!
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Post by myles on Jul 15, 2008 11:01:28 GMT -7
I'll keep the matched triode in v3. I have the non reverb model, so no problem there. Is the other 5751 (being matched as well) best suited in the v1 or v2. Or should I pull it and just have the two 12ax7s back in seeing as how it (5751) is also matched? Thanks, Myles..your help is immeasurable. On the 5751 ..... try it everywhere! It will do different things in each position and in the end it will be your own personal taste that matters. I loaned Brad Paisley a MAZ for a show once and when we were setting it up we used a 5751 in V1 AND a second one in the phase inverter slot ... and then he went into input 2, the less hot input .... master was just about all the way up.
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slunky
Full Member
I got a Halloween head
Posts: 172
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Post by slunky on Jul 15, 2008 11:03:49 GMT -7
gracias amigo! Good to know.
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55hz
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by 55hz on Jul 17, 2008 18:24:32 GMT -7
Myles! Thanks for the great advice! With help from you, the good Doc, and KCA, my Maz GT is smokin! I need to warm up my '95 matchless clubman tho... I put a GE labeled Mullard 12ax7 in V1, a mullard ef86, then a GT12ax7M matched Phase inverter in the PI. I've got some NOS Mesa labeled Siemans and one of KCA's sylvania (mismarked) 5ar4's also. is the the GT12ax7M matched phase inverter (silkscreened as such) tested for gain and transconductance specs (to match up to original specs)? any suggestions to warm it up a taste? I had a DC30 I wish I never got rid of, and I felt the brilliance control (cut) was part of the magic. I also have an Amperex Bugle Boy EF86 I could use... the mullard ef86 came from KCA in a post somewhere stating Brad was buying some. Piqued my interest some you could say. Thanks for all your hard work! Man! You work TOO hard! Take Care, Sean
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Post by myles on Jul 17, 2008 19:29:03 GMT -7
Myles! Thanks for the great advice! With help from you, the good Doc, and KCA, my Maz GT is smokin! I need to warm up my '95 matchless clubman tho... I put a GE labeled Mullard 12ax7 in V1, a mullard ef86, then a GT12ax7M matched Phase inverter in the PI. I've got some NOS Mesa labeled Siemans and one of KCA's sylvania (mismarked) 5ar4's also. is the the GT12ax7M matched phase inverter (silkscreened as such) tested for gain and transconductance specs (to match up to original specs)? any suggestions to warm it up a taste? I had a DC30 I wish I never got rid of, and I felt the brilliance control (cut) was part of the magic. I also have an Amperex Bugle Boy EF86 I could use... the mullard ef86 came from KCA in a post somewhere stating Brad was buying some. Piqued my interest some you could say. Thanks for all your hard work! Man! You work TOO hard! Take Care, Sean Sean, One of the tricks on the Clubman is to keep the front end gain stage from being too dark and the Mullard may be too dark and loose some articulation. If you have a 12AX7R3 around (it is the Electro Harmonix 12AX7 or a 12AX7 Tung Sol reissue) pop it into V1 and tell me if this gets you closer to where you want to be. If that is the case I will give you some more ideas. Myles
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55hz
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by 55hz on Jul 17, 2008 22:32:07 GMT -7
being hard headed i could have completely misunderstood you... if I think the clubman is too bright, than i should work with something not as dark as a mullard in V1 (brighter)? Soulds counter-intuitive... but i often get things swapped around... and either way (NOS or current production) pre-amp tube would be fine with me all long as 'dey sounds good!
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